Zachariahc Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Alright. So I picked up an 06 OBXT for a cheap price with a misfire thinking I'd work on it as a project and fix it up a bit. Well. That's as far as the thought got. Then through a series of catastrophic events I admittedly killed the car. So I decided to do the most logical thing and keep it. Rebuild it and redeem it. I actually posted it for sale as a tow away as is and through an amazing interaction to the ad I posted. I met someone who loves these things and he offered that if I wanted to keep it and rebuild it. He'd help me along the way and show me the ropes. Now. I LOVE subarus. This will be the 5th one we've owned. But I've never had a turbo anything and didn't fully understand the care and attention they need and deserve. So. With the offer on the table. I'm now rebuilding my first engine and hope to learn a lot throughout the process. I've posted some pictures below of the massive failure. As well as a parts list of things currently in the garage. Now I'm just waiting on the heads to get finished. Hopefully by next monday. To get back on the upswing. I'm going to do my best to add pictures along the way and hope to hear some good tips and encouraging words as I go. I do have some mechanical ability. But have never taken on a project like this. It's exciting and absolutely terrifying at the same time. Complete Intake (used) Heads in the shop (Gunn Automotive in denver) New oem short block Complete oem gasket kit New oem oil pump New oem oil cooler New oem pickup tube New oem oil pan 05-09 legacy CNT equal length headers 05-09 legacy/OBXT Invidia up pipe Gates timing kit BNR-16G Cobb turbo inlet IAG stock location turbo oil line upgrade V2 AP to be tuned by cryotune Probably adding new TMIC and down pipe after it's up and running and passes emissions and done with break in tune. Maybe even more. Oh and it looks like I found the misfire code. Geeeeez. http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170131_215118_zps8mnh7zhi.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170131_215125_zps2iggbild.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170131_215416_zpsdr1aq1tw.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170131_223114_zpsj4nnxit0.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170203_192306_zpshj98gcxf.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170204_140536_zpsduqkfn5z.jpg How she sits right now http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170211_153351_zpsohd6uy9d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Welcome to the forums! You will need to flush out the oil line that go to the turbo and AVCS. Also clean out the AVCS gears if you have any. I used brake clean. A tune will be helpful especially with the downpipe and turbo inlet is a must. The stock oil pick up are known for cracking and losing all oil pressure, so I would recommend going with a killer bee or Moroso for peace of mind. Good luck with the rebuild! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Welcome to the forums! You will need to flush out the oil line that go to the turbo and AVCS. Also clean out the AVCS gears if you have any. I used brake clean. A tune will be helpful especially with the downpipe and turbo inlet is a must. The stock oil pick up are known for cracking and losing all oil pressure, so I would recommend going with a killer bee or Moroso for peace of mind. Good luck with the rebuild! That's exactly what I did this weekend! I tried to go cleaning crazy so when the heads come back I won't have as much to do. I'll definitely look into an upgraded oil pickup. Would you think the new stock one would be good for a bit? I should have just ordered the moroso one. It was in the cart but I went with a stock one last minute. And. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Awesome. The stock one should hold up fine until you get a new one. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Heads came back today. Yippppeeeeee! I'll keep posting as I get it back together. Hoping this will speed things up a bit.http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170224_192102_zpswqnctm6e.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 So what actually happened. Looks like a fire? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 So what actually happened. Looks like a fire? I still don't have a definitive answer on that. When I tore it down the turbo had siezed and everything was melted. Inlet, parts of the manifold, pcv hoses. I did end up finding a few banjo bolts with the screens in that I pulled. Maybe it was all the raw fuel in the system plus the frozen turbo heating up so hot because of all of the exhaust gasses and one thing lead to another? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Oh and yes there was a fire. I finally. Very slowly limped it the 5 miles back to the house and as soon as I stopped I was greeted with a billow of smoke. I could clearly see an open flame from the hood and ran inside and got the fire extinguisher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Well. Got some more done this weekend. Having heads back really sped some thing up. And I learned the hard way that a T50 is NOT the same as a T50 PLUS. Still unsure of how I'll be getting that one out. Maybe pounding a size bigger in with some JB weld? Maybe I just drop this part of the project off at the shop. Either way. Making progress feels good. Going out to get some odds and ends today. Plugs, half moon seals, missing hoses. http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170227_101440_zpsmhw5exms.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170226_153328_zpshime4pp1.jpg http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o538/zachariahcrowell/20170224_192515_zpsdccrxkzb.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Sorry you didn't have a T50+, kind of late to this thread, but view my click here link for ideas. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Sorry you didn't have a T50+, kind of late to this thread, but view my click here link for ideas. I am too. Haha. But. At least there's people here that have been through it. I'll be reading through that link as soon as I get home for ideas. I have a couple ideas but I want as many as possible so I can have a list to go through as they fail or do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 I had the same problem when I was doing my clutch. I did spray the bolts with pb Blaster and let it sit over night, but I grinded one of the heads off of the bolt, and when the flywheel came off I was able to easily twist the bolt off afterward. But Good luck I sprayed them down and they've been soaking while I plan an attack. How did you grind it off? The dome part that the bolt heads a recessed into doesn't come off does it? Dremel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Yup I've done that before too, I had 2 stripped out clutch bolts. I already had a new SMFW waiting to be installed, so I pull out my hand grinder and grinded off 4 of the metal loops around the bolts. Then grinded the heads off the bolts. Flywheel pops off and twist the grinded bolts off with vise grips. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I sprayed them down and they've been soaking while I plan an attack. How did you grind it off? The dome part that the bolt heads a recessed into doesn't come off does it? Dremel? If you plan on keeping the OEM DMFW, your best option is to drill the head off the bolt. It would be way to hard to grind them off with a Dremel. You'll need an actual hand grinder to cut through the steel of the flywheel if you decide to go that route. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 The bolt is actually soft, so drilling them out wouldn't be that hard to do with the proper drill bit. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 The bolt is actually soft, so drilling them out wouldn't be that hard to do with the proper drill bit. Alright then. I really appreciate the help on this step of the project. So. To drill them out I just start with a smaller bit and gradually increase the size until the head comes off? What's the recommended type of bit? Unfortunately I'm trying to reuse the DMF so I'm trying to keep it in tact. Alternatively. Is there a clutch and flywheel setup that comes with everything and isn't crazy priced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Any (for metal) Cobalt or Titanium-coated drill bit will work. Find a bit that will fit perfect in the bolt head, you don't need to go small to large, a large enough bit that will grind out the majority of the bolt's head the first time. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Any (for metal) Cobalt or Titanium-coated drill bit will work. Find a bit that will fit perfect in the bolt head, you don't need to go small to large, a large enough bit that will grind out the majority of the bolt's head the first time. Excellent. I'll be giving this a try this week and getting the proper T50+ for the rest and hoping that gets the others out without too much more pain. Again. Thanks for the tips. I'd much rather learn to do it myself than pay someone and learn nothing. Even if it is a huge pain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Also, if you are new to drilling out bolts, remember slow speed. If you have an adjustable drill, make sure to use it between low and medium speeds. High speeds will cause too much heat and make it a lot hard to dig into the bolt. Some metals get stronger under high heat, so keeping the bits cool is the key to drilling metals. Drill for about 30 seconds then back off to let it cool down. Some use spray water to cool down, some use WD40 to keep it cool while drilling. You shouldn't have to use these since the bolts are a softer metal. That's my pro tip of the day. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 This all makes so much more sense. I was drilling on high with the assumption of. Give it hell!!! Haha. I've got some new metal bits and a can of blaster to try out hopefully tonight. Feeling way more confident I can get this done now. Especially with the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 Don't spend money on the T50+ bit, just drill out all of the bolt, and pick up some wrx flywheel bolts +08 I believe (I'll dig up the year and post back later) make your life easier if you ever have to go in and pull your flywheel off again. The only T50+ bit I could find around me when I replaced my clutch last year was gonna cost me like $40, but all 8 bolts cost me like $15 from the dealership. Good call. Assuming I can not be a dolt and figure out how to drill properly. I thought the bit I had was good. Didn't even make a dent in it. Used lots of pb blaster while drilling slow/medium as well. My problem as well finding a T50+ there's one locally but only in a set for $35. I can't really justify buying a whole set as I've never needed one in my life until now and I only need the one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 https://www.otctools.com/search?search_api_views_fulltext=6191 https://www.amazon.com/OTC-TORX-PLUS-Socket-Square/dp/B000O846UI http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN7319_zps6mscorwi.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Alright then. I really appreciate the help on this step of the project. So. To drill them out I just start with a smaller bit and gradually increase the size until the head comes off? What's the recommended type of bit? Unfortunately I'm trying to reuse the DMF so I'm trying to keep it in tact. Alternatively. Is there a clutch and flywheel setup that comes with everything and isn't crazy priced? I think by now you have figured out we don't recommend putting that DMFW back in the car. Have Dave at cryotuning get you a 07-90 Legacy GT clutch set up and get the hex head FW for it. If Dave can't help you, PM msprank or http://www.infamousperformance.net/contact-us 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 I sent dave a message. I was also looking at this page. https://www.apexclutch.com/c/subaru-outback-2006-xt Would any of those set ups be ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zachariahc Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 I think by now you have figured out we don't recommend putting that DMFW back in the car. Have Dave at cryotuning get you a 07-90 Legacy GT clutch set up and get the hex head FW for it. If Dave can't help you, PM msprank or http://www.infamousperformance.net/contact-us Yeah. Came home. Brand new cobalt good bit as well as chisel in hand. Tried the drill. No good. Tried to notch the bolt head and slowly drive it around. Nothing. Screw this thing. The engine is out and I planned on doing it down the road anyway. I admit defeat haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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