babybaluga32 Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 I swapped 2 speedometer clusters, one 'hvac' assembly. It all worked great until I put an after market headunit in which died but didn't blow it's fuse. It worked for 3 days then something shorted out. I've checked every fuse inside and outside and they're all good. I swapped all relays on the box on the outside. I do not have power to the blower motor relay. I believe there are 3 wires going to it. The 'hvac' buttons do not illuminate any longer there incandescent orange. Nor do I have any dash lights i.e. check engine/seat belt etc... There are three relay's; main fan, rear defrost, and one I cannot recall on the inside above the fuse box. rd- 2122 if I recall. The fan one ticks on and off with the car on acc. The defroster works and so does cruise and both illuminatee. I have 7 pages of schematcs from napa pertaining to radio, 3 pages of ground, instrumental cluster, and the heater. I also have a manual wth schematics. I don't know where to start but I imagine there's a ground i'm missng or a bad relay I can't find. 94 legacy usdm 2.2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Pull the gauges back out and look at the green thin circuit board on the back of the cluster. I had one cluster fry a circuit on it for no reason and it made all sorts of weird stuff happen to the car. The alternator wouldn't charge the battery, no instrument panel lights worked etc etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 I'll give that a once over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 That's where I'd start, electrical gremlins aren't fun. But do a really close inspection, my shortage was really small (about the tip of a ball point pen) it was just a little burnt hole in one of the silver circuit lines. I also noticed that when a main part of the dash wiring harness is missing/broken (Gauge cluster, HVAC unit etc) that weird stuff will happen. With my car, when the HVAC unit it not installed, my turn signals won't work, the interior dash lights don't work and a few other things act funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 pull the head unit out but keep it wired in and see if it gets power again. some have a failsafe to keep them from getting hurt, one of my old decks used to go into failsafe when i had a speaker wire shorted in the back. if that head unit managed to knock around the stock wiring behind the dash it could possibly dislodge a needed ground or harness you havent located yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 I rewired it in and swapped the illumination module but no dice... So apparently stereo is getting no power. I don't know why I didn't check... I still can technically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 I guess I didn't follow your directions exactly... I can hit a reset button from the front. Still no climate control Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Dumb question but when you checked the fuses, did you do a visual inspection or test them with a multi meter? Fuses can be dead and still look good, I'd replace any in question and see what happens. I had that happen when I first bought my car, the heater and high beams wouldn't work but fuses looked good. I replaced the fuses anyway and they worked again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 I used the little light thing on both sides so that shouldn't be a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Oh well that should be a fine then. Do you still have the old stereo? I'd say reinstall it if you can and see if anything changes. Also what years of cars did you get the new parts from? There were a few different connections for the dash throughout our generation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 I do believe I found part of the problem. Nothing works connected to acc or 'on'. Not sure of thats connected to the ignition switch or what... Or of that's even my issue. I do know the red memory wire that's supposed to get hot never does even with the car on. It also explains no bulbs, but not when the car is already started unless will technically it goes back to the on position which doesn't work.... Idk confusing stuff. I need better diagrams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 There is a box on the drivers inner fender top (under the hood) with fuses and relays in it. Have you checked those? If everything related to the key ACC position is out, that would be my first check. If that is clean, I would pull the bottom trim off the steering column and get the connector open that goes to the ignition switch. Then use a meter to check that there is continuity between the expected pins for each of the key positions. I'm sure we can help out from the Factory Service Manual with what pins should be open and connected for each key position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Dumb question but when you checked the fuses, did you do a visual inspection or test them with a multi meter? Fuses can be dead and still look good, I'd replace any in question and see what happens. I had that happen when I first bought my car, the heater and high beams wouldn't work but fuses looked good. I replaced the fuses anyway and they worked again. i see this once in a while at my friends shop. thats why i check resistance as well as volts on questionable circuits, if the resistance is high change the sucker. had a customer with a cadillac that wouldnt start in the parking lot, our tech checked fuses with his test light and all was good. once i got involved after they couldnt find any issues i checked the fuse with meter and saw almost 300Ω res. on it, switched with a headlamp fuse and it started right up. the fuse was technically blown, but still touching enough to pass a test light, and not enough to pass enough power to turn a starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I've never heard of that one. I'm filing that away for the day when it happens to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 So still no solution. I got the blower working and I can change the heat, but I can't adjust speed of it. I can turn the blower off of I turn my lights off. My gas gauge and heat gauge do not work. I've swapped 4 speedo's and it didn't change. Are there ground wires or power wires from the stock stereo harness I need to ground or something. I have no cel abs etc.. Lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 I fixed the blower motor with a relay behind the ecu. There's two and I believe it was the lower. It looks like a turn signal flasher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 There are two grounds if memory serves, you have to remove the radio, ash tray and all the other stuff to get the center dash bezel out and then down by where the airbag control module is, there is a ground on either side of it, they bolt under the carpet on either side of the trans tunnel and then they have wires that run up to the wiring harness. I think you can access them without pulling the dash apart, if you pull up the carpet on the edge where the dash meets the trans tunnel, you should be able to access them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babybaluga32 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 Are you saying theres a ground on each side of the tunnel? I found a ground like you mentioned on the passenger side of the tunnel and it goes straight into the harness. Is there another ground on the opposite side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 It's been a while since I took my dash apart, but I'm 85% sure there is an identical one of the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.