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Best cheap, bright headlamp bulbs


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Osram Ralleye 65W H7 for the lows and HIR1/9011 (5 seconds with the Dremel to fix the tabs, the part to cut is even pre-marked) for the high beams.

 

H7: http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html

 

HIR1/9011: http://store.candlepower.com/hirlighting.html

 

Need to find the Dremel so I can cut the metal tabs on a pair of H9s to fit the wife's '14 Fozzy and its anemic stock H11s. Dollars to doughnuts the crafty college-age daughter knows where it is.

 

Nevermind... This sums it up for me. Definitely going with this combo. Thanks for the info Captain Ned. Ordered.

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They only go in one way - if the tabs aren't lined up and the bulb is canted, output from the headlight will be poor. Once they are in properly, the filament is centered, so rotational orientation wouldn't matter - however, if the bulb is angled, the filament is somewhere other than where it's supposed to be, and output will suffer. (folks have found that LED bulbs, where there 2 or three emitters, have output that is a function of how the bulb is inserted, and some of the LED bulbs even let you adjust that - but for Halogens, they only go in one way)
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They only go in one way - if the tabs aren't lined up and the bulb is canted, output from the headlight will be poor. Once they are in properly, the filament is centered, so rotational orientation wouldn't matter - however, if the bulb is angled, the filament is somewhere other than where it's supposed to be, and output will suffer. (folks have found that LED bulbs, where there 2 or three emitters, have output that is a function of how the bulb is inserted, and some of the LED bulbs even let you adjust that - but for Halogens, they only go in one way)

Thanks a million! I'll post the install video once I'm done editing it

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

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Final product. Looks a bit different if you look at it from a front angle, still no news about its performance because I haven't driven it at night. Gonna see if I notice any difference(s) tonight

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161221/6c279204a62aa934513da99e258bc6a8.jpg

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

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It's still not in straight. The driver's side is the harder to reach, so it's the harder side to get in straight, especially with paws like mine. Take a look at the bulb from the front when it's light outside and it should appear "cockeyed".

 

I know from experience that one can make the spring catch even if the bulb is not properly aligned.

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It's still not in straight. The driver's side is the harder to reach, so it's the harder side to get in straight, especially with paws like mine. Take a look at the bulb from the front when it's light outside and it should appear "cockeyed".

 

I know from experience that one can make the spring catch even if the bulb is not properly aligned.

Thanks, I'll try to straighten it out today

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

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It's pretty easy to get the bulb seating wrong in such a tight space. Why Subaru didn't make changing bulbs easier is beyond me, but I usually take the front bumper off and then remove the headlights (better than fiddling and cutting my hand up).

Yeah they seriously made it to be a PITA [emoji36]

 

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Yeah they seriously made it to be a PITA

Which is why after I spent several hours and a bucketload of those damn Subie push-pins getting it right the first time (4 hrs driver's side, 30 min passenger side), when one failed 18 months later (just to be calming, I put 2K/month on that car, lots of dark, lots of VT winters, lots of potholed dirt roads) I had my local shop do it when it was on the lift. They were not happy.

 

My experience with Subie push-pins in a salt-ridden VT car is that I NEVER want to pull the bumper myself. By the end of my time with my '10 LGT I'd zip-tied the "snorkus" to the radiator mount instead of dealing with those bloody things. At least in both WRXs it was bolted down.

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Which is why after I spent several hours and a bucketload of those damn Subie push-pins getting it right the first time (4 hrs driver's side, 30 min passenger side), when one failed 18 months later (just to be calming, I put 2K/month on that car, lots of dark, lots of VT winters, lots of potholed dirt roads) I had my local shop do it when it was on the lift. They were not happy.

 

My experience with Subie push-pins in a salt-ridden VT car is that I NEVER want to pull the bumper myself. By the end of my time with my '10 LGT I'd zip-tied the "snorkus" to the radiator mount instead of dealing with those bloody things. At least in both WRXs it was bolted down.

Yeah I'm not looking forward to having to swap these bulbs out again 😞

 

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After several back breaking hours I managed to straighten out the headlights. Here are the results:

Before- http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161223/283d261e51f17464318f089a075e77f3.jpg

 

After- http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161223/ddbc449bcb6d7a80ae61e03fea669409.jpg

 

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

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The one time I did my lows it was through the wheel well. Passenger side is easy but driver's side has just about the entire wiring harness in the way. Changing fogs is really easy once you pop out the bezel and undo one bolt to have the entire housing in your hand. Five minutes/side tops and NO PUSH-PINS!!!
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