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no cel, but car has problems


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so i went to pep boys and bought a 5 lobe t30 tamper proof torx bit to disassemble and clean my intake avcs cam gear sprockets. Turns out my passenger side avcs cam sprocket was stuck pretty bad. That nipple looking thing was clogged and there was quite a few flakes of metal in there. I took some brake cleaner and blasted every little hole i could find until I cleaned those dam gears until they are chrome and shiny. It was pretty easy.
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so what exactly failed? and what caused it to fail?

 

sorry to hear of your troubles! :(

 

Well I'm not exactly sure. I haven't split the short block. I was in the precess but the screws that are behind the flywheel I stripped....so i said screw it and left it alone. So now it sits in the corner of my garage, as a reminder, of my defeat. There is tons of metal flakes.....and i mean tons. Im guessing bearings. but not sure. Ill get it open..maybe later.

 

I guess this should be moved over to the engine build thread because as it turns out, Its my turn to build build it. Ive gotten real paranoid about the metal flakes so I've pretty much replaced or cleaned anything that oil has touched.

 

My build list:

 

Built ej257 short block from mike at tuning alliance - 2200

rebuilt heads - 500 from napa auto parts

rebuilt vf52 - from mike at tuning alliance

master gasket kit - 260

spark plugs - 50

avcs gear (LH) - 150

avcs gear (RH) - 150

oem oil pan - 70

11mm oil pump - 150

oem oil cooler - 190

Gates Racing Timing Belt w/waterpump - 368

arp head studs - 192

oem oil pickup - 30

 

total -4050 + what ever the turbo rebuild is.

 

all in all if your doing it yourself...you should set aside 5000$ prep for a motor rebuild. Or let a shop charge you 8-10k

 

I have hoses will need to be replaced. But I think thats most of it. Well from reading everyone else build thread that seems to be it. If i missed any please let me know.

 

If i cleaned the cam gears I'm sure i could shave 300$ which i did. but i didn't feel comfortable afterwards. 300 is for peace of mind.

 

Same thing with the oil pan, could have gotten a cheaper timing belt, but I'm planning on using this for awhile. Im going to be working with mike for my tuning.

 

Everything I will be doing most of it myself. Or pay a shop to assemble my long block with the timing belt, and then ill do the rest. Depends on how much they charge.

 

Im planning to get this running by mid January. Ill be leaning on other rebuild threads heavily. Wish me luck. I will accept everyones advice be it reasonable lol

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no, about 25k miles previously the turbo blew due to oil starvation. There were were metal flakes everywhere and I'm pretty sure rod bearings spun and went to hell this time. When i took apart my intake cam sprocket on the RH side it was clogged to the point where it doesn't even move....because of the metal flakes and residue. I pick up my heads tomorrow, and by next friday ill be getting my sb and rebuilt vf52. If you have one of these cars, create a shortblock fund of 5k and store that mess in a cd and wait for the inevitable.
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I guess your learning a lot. I vote for letting a trusted shop assemble the long block, I assume you read my thread in my click here link in my sig.

 

Replace a few of the hoses now and other items that are old.

 

Glad to see TA is helping you out.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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update: well I have gotten most of the parts together now and I am assembling the timing belt now. When installing the intake and exhaust cam sprockets Im kind of stuck. Im installing the sprockets one at a time. For example, (RH) Intake sprocket , tighten to spec, rotate till i see valves fully closed, then (RH) exhaust sprocket, tighten to spec, rotate till i see valves fully closed. Then i align marks of the (RH) IN SPK, Then I align marks of the (RH) EX SPK. How do I make sure when I install the belt that the intake and exhaust valves won't hit each other? As long as i start install the timing belt with all the sprockets aligned then I should be ok?
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As long as you rotate by hand it's not a problem, just align the timing marks and double-check before releasing the tensioner. One cam is a real bugger since it's under valve spring pressure forcing it out of alignment.

 

Just be patient and follow all alignment tricks and marks that you find and you should be OK.

 

Notice that after you have cranked the engine the belt marks no longer matches up, but that's as it should be - it's by design so that the belt is worn in an uniform way.

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Update: Well today i finally put the engine back in the car. Thanks to ehsnils i was able to put that timing belt back to gather no problem. I gave it a couple cranks and all seems good. So i saw turkey lords post of his homemade engine oil primer and i made one myself! thanks to that i was able to find a few leaks and took care of it while it was on my engine stand. It also revealed to me that i forgot that crankshaft seal behind the flywheel! That would have been a pain in the ass to fix once everything is back together. Im going to try to start it tonight. Also, i did the tgv diy mod. If i plug the tgv motors back in but let it freeball in the engine bay will that trick the ecu into thinking the tgv is ok? Also, where are all the grounds in the engine bay?
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ok so i started the motor. Tons of white bluish smoke. Got scared and shut it off after 5 mins. Had some leaks i fixed. Then i muscled up and turned it on and ran it for 20 minutes. The smoke subsided alot. But there is still smoke in the exhaust pipe, thick white smoke. Is this normal? I'm not sure. What should i be looking for now?
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Took the timing belt off, with the help of youtube again. Didn't need the [crank] tool, there was this nifty trick using the alternator and the belt that helped me out.

 

That "nifty trick" will bend your alternator shaft and/or damage its bearings. Now you've done it, spin/inspect carefully and be prepared to replace after a few thousand miles.

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ok so i started the motor. Tons of white bluish smoke. Got scared and shut it off after 5 mins. Had some leaks i fixed. Then i muscled up and turned it on and ran it for 20 minutes. The smoke subsided alot. But there is still smoke in the exhaust pipe, thick white smoke. Is this normal? I'm not sure. What should i be looking for now?

 

Thick white smoke usually means head gasket problem. On a cold engine - check if there are bubbles coming from the radiator filler cap when the engine is running. Don't do it on a hot engine - that would be really bad for you.

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Update: smoke has subsided alot. Checking for all the signs of head gasket leaks and no bubbles in coolant. No overheating, the smoke is now blue smoke which is oil burning but I read that that is normal. My power steering is gone, have to fix that. changed the oil twice now. going for the 50 mile mark and ill update after that.
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update: just want to say, I FREAKING DID IT! no smoke at all is pumping out. I went to auto zone rented a block tester to see if i had a head gasket leak and it came back negative. getting misfires on cyl 3 on start up once. Going to check the coil pack and plugs. Then vaccum test. Im stoked! gonna baby this car for 500 miles then......I....wil.....baby it some more.
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update: I figured out where some of the smoke was coming from. The Turbo. I just had it rebuilt. But when i pulled the hot side intercooler piping, i found oil in it. too much oil? maybe the new turbo seal needs to set?
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