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Probably ynansb incoming


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Nothing definitive because I'm still reaching out to possible shops to work on my car. So far the ball park numbers I'm getting are just too much for my situation. I'm trying to work out some space in a garage to take on the engine pull myself.
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  • 5 weeks later...

Some small steps towards the engine pull. Hoping it's just going to be head work and not any piston issues.

 

http://i.imgur.com/PSsNsP2.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/OzRkFNd.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/8UUbD2z.jpg

 

Not pretty like the cars away from the salted roads, but she'll be back.

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I have a wobble extensions including a short 2 inch one and crow foot wrenches. Hopefully one of them will do the trick. Still have to drain the coolant and take the intake manifold off, but it's mostly done.

 

Then it's tow the car to the garage where I'm pulling the engine and go from there. Sucks working in the driveway when it's cold. Luckily it hasn't been below 30 during the day.

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well since you are in there, might want to fix anything else that is broken... LGT are nice but those motors sure seem not to last...

 

They last just as much as any other car. For a sport sedan the 5th gen seems to have few issues. I'm at 124k and while not every owner out there is on this forum, I think I'm the 3rd person with a likely valve issue. Most of the gt's that haven't been pushed past stock seem to be running just fine.

 

I will be doing some preventative maintenance and some maintenance I had been putting off.

Planning on

Clutch

Rear main seal

All the gaskets that are removed will be replaced

If funds can stretch I'll replace the transmission mount, shifter brass bushing, steering lockdown, and possibly the damper delete.

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well since you are in there, might want to fix anything else that is broken... LGT are nice but those motors sure seem not to last...

And it helps to remember these engines were built and engineered for 265 hp not 300+. Stock on a modified tune for lengevity these powertrains could probably run for tens of years.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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Only the radiator and starter are left. Even started breaking free the top bellhousing bolts.

 

http://i.imgur.com/ObDSJvM.jpg

 

 

Pretty sure that my intake valves aren't supposed to look like that. I'm a little worried, but hoping it's just a valve seal or seat issue at this point. Hoping it's not a ringland issue.

Cylinder 1, the one with the misfire.

http://i.imgur.com/VO4IVLv.jpg

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sorry to hear about your loss, i was in the same boat not that long ago, ringland cylinder 2 went due to a chain reaction of poor tune and mechanical issues, re-bulit and back on the road all not that long ago, it's true that these aren't cheap engines to repair, my wallet still feels it to this day....
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Probably should have asked sooner, but any recommendations that isn't dealer for a timing belt kit? Gates are no longer being recommended because of the cheaper idlers and tensioner from what I understand.

 

The next option that most owners have used is...

 

AISIN TKF004 Includes Water Pump @ $258.79 ... price based off Rockauto.com.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,legacy,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1430733,engine,timing+belt+&+component+kit,5759?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

 

 

Edit: Wrong kit for the 2010 models.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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So finally got the engine out today. Took way longer than it should have but those studs on the bottom of the bellhousing are the devil.

 

Getting the bolts and nuts of the bottom end of the block wasn't fun, but nothing too difficult.

 

Little mishap, and I'm still kicking myself because it was totally avoidable. Bent my radiator support because the car slipped off the block of wood I had on the jack. If I would've double checked the jack before getting it too high it wouldn't have happened. I'm a big dummy.

 

http://i.imgur.com/MWv4ueL.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/n8j71KZ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/3JfnjDJ.jpg

 

Edit:

 

That Contitech timing belt kit is top notch by the way. Everything but the belt is made in Japan and oem quality.

TB328LK4

NTN Tensioner and small smooth roller

NSK coged idler

2 KOYO smooth idlers

NPW cast impeller water pump

Continental timing belt.

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Nice work. BTW for the two bottom nuts on the trans that are a PITA to remove. They are super easy if you just pop the axles out. Only takes like ten minutes and makes things way easier with a ton more room. Other than that a wobble extension or an extended crows foot will make it much better.
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Nice work. BTW for the two bottom nuts on the trans that are a PITA to remove. They are super easy if you just pop the axles out. Only takes like ten minutes and makes things way easier with a ton more room. Other than that a wobble extension or an extended crows foot will make it much better.

 

Yeah it wasn't too bad just a little uncomfortable finding the right spot for the nuts. I used a 18 in breaker bar, wobble extension, and a six point socket. Just turned the wheel to get the flat spot on the axle. It makes it easier to get the extension on the socket. (thanks FLlegacy for the tip)

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Progress even without the engine stand that I tried to buy

 

http://i.imgur.com/8yTtm6I.jpg

 

Definitely was losing oil from the rear main seal.

 

http://i.imgur.com/A7B7PPS.jpg

 

Clutch had some life left, but still glad I decided to get a new one.

 

http://i.imgur.com/A62aaLU.jpg

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