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Deeregamer's 2.5i--->gt build


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Just noticed where your from, you should reach out to www.tuningalliance.com Mike or Brian may be able to help. They are about 15 minutes away from you in Vernon CT. just off exit 65 on rt84

Thankyou! ill give them a call next week and have a chat. See if what im saying makes some sort of sense. Also i read through your rebuild thread a few months back. Gave me a much better understanding of how these cars actually function. If you ever want to grab a beer i honestly owe you lol.

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Just to help you on future replies... check out the "M Quote" button. Click that button for each post you want to reply to, then hit "NEW REPLY" at the bottom of the thread. That way you aren't making 9 seperate posts, but one single post with 9 responses. a lot easier to read that way.
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The JDM ecu's didn't even have an imobalizer function. So in theory you should be able to get it to start. BIU and cluster will probably pitch a fit though.

 

There is a separate UART bus going between the BIU and ECU for this functionality. Actually if you wanted to get clever, you could run both ECU's to trick the system into working. Just feed the old ECU the bare minimum for the imobalizer to work, JDM ECU does the rest.

 

The JDM ECUs do too have an immobilizer. I assure you it will not start unless the key codes in the ECU match the ones in the BIU. The VIN is not checked though...

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Well too me anything with a turbo is fast. I drove a 2006 wrx the other day with an up/down pipe and thought it was a rocket ship haha. That car seems to be reliable thus far.

 

If that's the case, I have a really fast Chevy Cruze. I may have 180 Tq at the crank on a good day before it defaults from 91 fuel map to 87 again due to Gm placing the FMIC between the condenser and radiator. I don't want to dyno it and find out I was lied to any more than I already was by the tuner. :lol: That money could go to Dynoing the LGT whenever it runs again.

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  • 2 months later...

so i know this thread has been dead for a little while but the project has been nothing but haha. So the ej20 now has a new rear main seal, motor mounts and has been temporarily been bolted to the crossmember with a hoist holding it. Reason being is i dropped the old and tired 2.5i trans out the bottom with all the mounts still attached. Oh and before i put the engine in i did alittle bit of shaving and painting just to get an idea of what i would be in for if i decide to shave the entire engine bay. After the little i did, that idea kind of fell apart for the time being because that doesn't get the car on the ground rolling again. Ill save that job for latter on down the line with this car. I sent the steering rack out a few weeks ago to get new tierod ends on it because the one on there seemed to be original to the 225k shell and want to start as fresh as i can with this car. Continuing with the fresh thing i have started taking most of the rear apart of the car just to give it a good once over and replace any bad or worn bushings. Ive found more than i was hoping for... but ill keep going a little at a time. i work at napa and for some crazy reason they stock whiteline bushings and i get a stellar discount on them so ill be lighting up my credit card once i have the rear subframe out and ready to go back in hopefully with 08+ sti subframe mounts that look like they will work. for the $30ish they will cost ill take my chances. So within the next month or two i want to get everything mechanical done so i can get the car back on a set of wheels and roll it out of the garage so i can do alittle cleaning and be able to put my daily in there so it can get some well needed love. I know it the saying it never happened if you cant see it so here you go.

-Eric

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Just to help you on future replies... check out the "M Quote" button. Click that button for each post you want to reply to, then hit "NEW REPLY" at the bottom of the thread. That way you aren't making 9 seperate posts, but one single post with 9 responses. a lot easier to read that way.

Haha I had no idea. I've been manually creating multiple quote responses in a separate browser window on another monitor. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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  • 3 months later...

Alright guys iv hit a little bit of a road block but ill get back to that. SO far the car has the ej20y with a jdm gt trans all bolted together and installed, exhaust avcs deleted, brand new from subaru 06 gt bulk and engine harness installed, every sensor pluged in that is required to try and start it and battery tossed in. so last night after a long day of wrenching and getting everything finished up enough to start her for the first time i fried my ecu..... So when i first put the battery in it was the usual subaru chimes that gave me alot of confidence. so i went on ands turned the key one click over. things got a little weird from here. The cluster only lighting up doors being ajar and the security light. Which is very weird to me because i got an ecu, imobilizer and key set that was all apparently matched to the same car. so silly me says well lets try one more click and see what happens. as soon as i do the 15 amp ecu fuse blows, i could see the flash when it did blow to, and then i start smelling the dreaded electrical burning smell. so thinking the smell was the fuse i popped another in for fun and turn the key 2 clicks over again. fuse pops in the same spectacular fashion but this time i notice smoke coming from the passenger foot well. so i took the brand new smoked ecu out and took it apart to see what happened. it seemed to be a very localized burn which put a pretty decent sized hole through one chip on the board. so since i just go this ecu i figured maybe it was just a bad ecu and decided to plug in my origonal 2.5i ecu in the see if i could atleast get the cluster to go through its normal start up procedure. Low and behold she does the same thing, 15 amp fuse blown, smoke out of the ecu and the same chip has a hold burnt straight through it. so my next plan of action is to isolate the bulk harness and fuse pannel under the hood, disconect the brown and black engine harness plugs, and see if i can get one of my now toasty ecus to do something more than what i had last night. If anyone has any clues as to what could be causing this i would be very appreciative.

-Eric

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Alright guys iv hit a little bit of a road block but ill get back to that. SO far the car has the ej20y with a jdm gt trans all bolted together and installed, exhaust avcs deleted, brand new from subaru 06 gt bulk and engine harness installed, every sensor pluged in that is required to try and start it and battery tossed in. so last night after a long day of wrenching and getting everything finished up enough to start her for the first time i fried my ecu..... So when i first put the battery in it was the usual subaru chimes that gave me alot of confidence. so i went on ands turned the key one click over. things got a little weird from here. The cluster only lighting up doors being ajar and the security light. Which is very weird to me because i got an ecu, imobilizer and key set that was all apparently matched to the same car. so silly me says well lets try one more click and see what happens. as soon as i do the 15 amp ecu fuse blows, i could see the flash when it did blow to, and then i start smelling the dreaded electrical burning smell. so thinking the smell was the fuse i popped another in for fun and turn the key 2 clicks over again. fuse pops in the same spectacular fashion but this time i notice smoke coming from the passenger foot well. so i took the brand new smoked ecu out and took it apart to see what happened. it seemed to be a very localized burn which put a pretty decent sized hole through one chip on the board. so since i just go this ecu i figured maybe it was just a bad ecu and decided to plug in my origonal 2.5i ecu in the see if i could atleast get the cluster to go through its normal start up procedure. Low and behold she does the same thing, 15 amp fuse blown, smoke out of the ecu and the same chip has a hold burnt straight through it. so my next plan of action is to isolate the bulk harness and fuse pannel under the hood, disconect the brown and black engine harness plugs, and see if i can get one of my now toasty ecus to do something more than what i had last night. If anyone has any clues as to what could be causing this i would be very appreciative.

-Eric

 

Are the 2 green plugs under the passenger dash plugged together?

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  • 2 weeks later...

alright so i have to ask what are those two green plugs for? i got alot more normal stuff to happen when i popped them apart. Also im still having problems with blowing main relays and ecu's. I broke down on my search for a gt car that i could part out and bought a bulk, dash and engine harness straight from subaru using a friends vin number in hopes of less headache inducing situations. sadly i wasn't so lucky. i just pulled the dash harness and dash bar out again tonight to make sure i had everything situated right. Which from what i was looking at was the case. All i can realy think of at this point is my intake manifold and all of the sensors that go along with it? does anyone know if using the jdm sensors could cause a situation like this? I say this because if i have the engine harness disconected and turn the key i would get the dash to cycle just like normal but with it connected i would get all the usual warning lightd to cycle but the gauges wouldnt sweep. ill keep digging and see what i can come up with. back tot he garage..

-Eric

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  • 3 years later...
So it's been a while but I finally have the car back togther! Just having a few issues that are stopping me from getting a etune. Im getting an er hc and er ss with the abs light and a check engine light code p0600. Also the spedo does not work which is the only part that is stopping me from getting it tuned. I have to back up a bit though. The car has been mini tubbed, brake booster has been deleted, abs has been deleted (I disassembled the abs pump and reconnected the board to the plug. Wrapped it up to keep it water tight and put it up in the front of the frame horn to keep it away from everything), and I also tucked ALOT of wiring and the fuse pannel is now in the glove box. So with that said there is a solid shot that I have screwed myself with my own nonsense but wanted to see if anyone has a clue other than "you messed something up". So far I have attempted to pull a c code and have gotten a flashing c on the cluster with no codes. Figured I just didn't know what I was doing so I got ahold of a 0bd2 scanner that can read abs codes. That told me the same thing. No connection to the abs portion of the can bus system. I did have to extend the abs wires up front to run them through the cabin and back out under the fenders but it was done with solder and heat shrink like the rest of my extensions which somehow all work haha. pd5Qm7t4rgquPNQn8
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Boxkita I took a look at the fuse and it checks out. Also have power coming too the fuse pannel for that 30 amp fuse. I had a little heart attack last night thinking there would be no voltage there and the dash would have to come out again as the fuse pannel is in the glove box now
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Boxkita I took a look at the fuse and it checks out. Also have power coming too the fuse pannel for that 30 amp fuse. I had a little heart attack last night thinking there would be no voltage there and the dash would have to come out again as the fuse pannel is in the glove box now

 

if you pull the abs fuse, you have removed abs from the car.

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So since I minitubbed it I lost the original spot to put the abs pump/module. So I got a chase bays booster delete and re built the brake system. I really enjoy how it feels with spirited driving too. So with that I tucked all wiring that went along with that under the passenger side tub and used some of the original zip tie clips to hold its up above the wheel out of harms way. I have the ground hooked up on the end of that harness and the circuit board portion of the deal hooked up and mounted inside of the end of the frame so I didn't have to extend all of that wiring back into the chassis as well. I left the fuse in hopes that the abs unit would still function as usual and allow all four vss to be used still and get me a spedo signal. I didn't realize this till I got into the swap but I never saw a spedo sensor on the trans so it would make sense that the abs unit would be what is taking the vss signal and sending it back to the ecu and cluster. I'm guessing with all the nonsense I've done I'm now getting a p0600 code and con communication to the abs unit. For fun I tried a full abs unit off of another parts gt I have and still had the same issue. I guess I need to get myself into the vaca pics and try to find a pin out for the abs harness plug and see what's going on. Unless I'm misunderstanding how vs is acquired

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