brandon.mol Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Does anyone have any advice on changing out the front motor mount, who has done it? It appears to be easily accessible from the top, after removing the rad fans, so that's no problem, but I am contemplating how to support the motor during the procedure, or if I even need to since the two rear mounts plus transmission are holding it up. For example, whether jacking from below is a good idea and if so from where. I don't have an engine hoist, or that would be an obvious course of action. Considering strapping it to my strut tower bar with rachet straps, if the manifold isn't in the way. Any thoughts, experience, or general wisdom to share? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I have removed mine a bunch. I have always been pulling the engine, but that really does not matter much. The engine wont really drop once you remove it. The two rear mounts hod everything really well. If you are worried though you could always put a floor jack with a block of wood under the manifold. It is super easy though, you should have no problems. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Perfect. Thanks. So under the manifold is a decent spot for a little support? Do you suggest pulling the bolt from the bushing first, then removing the mount from the motor or the reverse? I'm assuming I ought to pull the bushing bolt first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I'd think you could probably loosen some bolts in the transmission crossmember if you have problems getting things realigned, should be able to pivot the whole works around the rear engine mounts. Completely dropping the crossmember and using a bottle jack or something under the rear of the transmission housing should allow you to take almost all of the weight off of the front mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 When I was taking down my turbo I started to loosen the front mount and there was definitely tension on it, so some kind of support should be used. Have you though about laying some 2x4s across the engine bay on the edges of the fender and ratchet strap to that? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/3206fb8f3970e7a4291accdf6b4e8b0c.jpg Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 A floor jack under the exhaust manifold to take a little pressure off the front mount will work just fine. The front mount only works as a pitch stop, not so much as a traditional motor mount supporting weight. It only controls the tendency for the motor to rotate up in the front and down in the back when accelerating because of the front diff wanting to twist the motor and tranny. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 A floor jack under the exhaust manifold to take a little pressure off the front mount will work just fine. The front mount only works as a pitch stop, not so much as a traditional motor mount supporting weight. It only controls the tendency for the motor to rotate up in the front and down in the back when accelerating because of the front diff wanting to twist the motor and tranny. Installed the mount today. Unfortunately, a jack under the exhaust manifold doesn't cut it. There is in fact quite a preload on that mount. What worked best is using a 6 inch long piece of 2x2 lumber and jacking up on the mount to take the pressure off, then lowering it down (letting the motor hang from the tranny), removing the mount from the motor, and then jacking back up after the new mount is on. There is even a gusset on the mount to prevent your block of wood from slipping off the front. The motor sagged down about an inch and a half without the mount bolt in place. Jacking from the manifolds with a block of wood only took out half of that and the car was lifting before the mount would line up. I guess ideally you'd do both but not going to get two jacks under there. I jacked it up by the mount to take the weight off the bolt, removed the engine cover, snorkel, rad fans and rad overflow tank, took off the V shaped brace attached to the mount/ac-compressor/block, removed the mount bolt/pin, removed the old mount, attached and torqued on the new one, attached and torqued the V-brace, jacked up the motor by the newly attached mount, popped in the bolt, torqued to spec, replaced rad fans, remembered to plug them in, replaced the rad overflow tank, replaced the engine cover and snorkel, and done. Having the FSM pages with proper torque specs and torque wrenches capable of 15 ftlbs up to 33 ftlbs is necessary for this job. Driving impressions: great success! This mount tightened up driveline slop just like I wanted, all but eliminating any significant play. No added NVH at all from this mount change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisCrash Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Any chance you took any pics? Appreciate the well described work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 No... But it's pretty straight forward. Everything done from the top other than removing my skid plate and placing the jack. Removing the rad fans and the rad overflow tank is key. It's easy though... Just pull the rubber straw out and unclip the tank and set it aside with the coolant in it. I used a couple zip ties to fold over the rubber tube to keep it from dripping everywhere. The engine being cold will let the coolant hoses to have enough give to get the rad fans both out easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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