MySubieII Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 So there I was with my car on ramps. All of my tools ready to go. Then the unboxing happened!! The kbar support braces have several places where there are imperfections in the powder coating/finish (which are essentially going to be calling for rust)... ok I am not a fan, lets move on... now lets mock this thing up... oh wait the bars are not marked left and right... I'm done. Please help. Is this normal? no information regarding fitment/torque? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 My friend you have the completely wrong attitude with mods! Go to youtube and search "Whiteline rear sway bar" and you will be rewarded with video after video of what you just gave up on...and yes the sti and wrx install the exact same way. IIRC the braces are identical, and if they aren't then they will only fit one way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Doesn't the bar need to be upside down to clear the spare tire well on ours? I didn't even notice back when I did mine since it only fit the one way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 holy punctuation, batman.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieGT Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 While I don't have a 5th gen Legacy, we share the same rear sway bar. I bought my Whiteline 22mm RSB used ($125, can't beat that!), it came with no box, no instructions, just the bar with it's accessories. It took a quick glance under the car to realize it was essentially a direct swap out, with the addition of the control arm supports. If you're unhappy with the finish, you're left with two options. The first, contact the company for a replacement and wait however long it'll take to get the second one, and pray it is in a condition to your liking. The second, hit it with a can of spray paint to protect the areas you see as vulnerable. Is it necessary? Probably not. Will it ease your mind from the rust demons that come and eat our vehicles at night? More than likely. Hope you find a solution that appeases you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 done and done. I went online and got some some much better pdfs of the instructions. was able to figure it out ok... I think. FLlegacy you were right. went into this with wrong attitude. once I scraped up the bar just to get it in there... I realized I was being a bit particular. This was my 1st mod other than dropping in an KN air filter. I am concerned I may have over tightened the end links to the bar? I guess time will tell.. oh and nothing for me ever goes without tragedy... I ran over my phone heading out for the test drive before coming back to finish tightening up. haha all in all it does feel better WHAT NEXT GENTS... I AM OPEN TO ALL IDEAS!!!!! THANKS ALL ONCE AGAIN FOR YOUR RESPONSES AND HELP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Shady mechanic tech tip, always search youtube for install instructions the night before you plan on doing the work so you can see and plan ahead what you need to do. Even if it is something I have done before I like to run through it to be sure all my bases are covered and be prepared for any contingencies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 out of order but learning to resize Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 i did several times... just lack the confidence... first venture into this kind of thing loving it so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Sometimes we tend to overthink things when we are unfamiliar, that is why my downpipe sat in my shed for so long. Now that I have taken the turbo down twice, it's not even a little bit scary. Now I am trying to decide between swapping a ported housing and just having the whole turbo rebuilt and ported. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talkgtr Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Congrats and good choice. I did the 22mm after trying the 19mm for a couple years. Just what my Legacy needed, loving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I did install the Whiteline RSB sort of, but I couldn't break the 17mm bolt to do the strut. I guess i'm good to drive as long as I don't go rally racing. Any tips on what tools I can use to get that one off. I did spray pb blaster but maybe waiting 20 minutes was too short? One thing is I didn't have a deep socket, so maybe that will help me get a good grip on it. Also, I could try my cordless drill on high torque. Otherwise, i'll have the mechanic do it when I get my key programmed next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 out of order but learning to resize Are those the OEM endlinks or an upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 A deep socket and a breaker bar should do it for you. 20 minutes probably wasn't long enough to let the PB Blaster soak in, but you're probably good by now. If you're not getting full purchase on the nut with whatever socket you do have, stop trying, because if you round off the top of the nut, a deep socket won't help any. Also, unless your cordless is an impact wrench (not a drill or an impact driver), that nut is just gonna laugh at you- I'd spare yourself the humiliation of being made fun of by an inanimate object and use that time to run to Harbor Freight to grab some deep-well impact sockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Are those the OEM endlinks or an upgrade? looks like OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I did install the Whiteline RSB sort of, but I couldn't break the 17mm bolt to do the strut. I guess i'm good to drive as long as I don't go rally racing. Any tips on what tools I can use to get that one off. I did spray pb blaster but maybe waiting 20 minutes was too short? One thing is I didn't have a deep socket, so maybe that will help me get a good grip on it. Also, I could try my cordless drill on high torque. Otherwise, i'll have the mechanic do it when I get my key programmed next week. Using a drill for automotive purposes as an impact is a very bad idea, your drill will not like you and the bolts will just laugh at you. When you get to a bolt too tight for the drill it will just twist the gearcase inside the drill and probably distort the whole drill body. Otoh, this is a great time to upgrade to a cordless impact! http://www.sears.com/dewalt-20-v-max-lithium-ion-1-2-in/p-00903932000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=Cj0KEQjwhbzABRDHw_i4q6fXoLIBEiQANZKGW6-sTLBNzGABeOyBCi6DMTy1Tx3-hVNNWkgPIEmpWKAaArTc8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds Then you will have to supplement with deep well impact sockets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 6 point sockets, not 12 point. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 Mrstacy, This car was well cared for before I got it in 2013. It only had 8k miles on it and I have only just made this car my daily driver. So garage kept and not seeing winters it came apart fairly easy. but yeah a breaker bar for some more leverage or if available I have used heat to loosen stuff up on older bicycles before? yeah I left the OEM endlinks. I probably should have replaced them while I was there, but I am very new to all this. I really just couldn't take they was this care handled after parking my WRX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 The endlinks should be fine especially with the low mileage on your car. My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Endlinks aren't as critical as some other parts. IIRC the bolts on the suspension arms for me were the hardest to loosen up. I used two wrenches because my impact was useless on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Using a drill for automotive purposes as an impact is a very bad idea, your drill will not like you and the bolts will just laugh at you. When you get to a bolt too tight for the drill it will just twist the gearcase inside the drill and probably distort the whole drill body. Otoh, this is a great time to upgrade to a cordless impact! http://www.sears.com/dewalt-20-v-max-lithium-ion-1-2-in/p-00903932000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=Cj0KEQjwhbzABRDHw_i4q6fXoLIBEiQANZKGW6-sTLBNzGABeOyBCi6DMTy1Tx3-hVNNWkgPIEmpWKAaArTc8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds Then you will have to supplement with deep well impact sockets Got it done. Went to Harbor Freight and bought an 18" breaker bar and an impact metric set. That and the PB Blaster made mincemeat out of the stickiness. Too much so really, the other side started spinning with the nut, so and to get a different 17mm on the bolt side. Took a while, but it is done. Thanks All! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Enjoy the new... tighter... rear end!!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Mrstacy, This car was well cared for before I got it in 2013. It only had 8k miles on it and I have only just made this car my daily driver. So garage kept and not seeing winters it came apart fairly easy. but yeah a breaker bar for some more leverage or if available I have used heat to loosen stuff up on older bicycles before? yeah I left the OEM endlinks. I probably should have replaced them while I was there, but I am very new to all this. I really just couldn't take they was this care handled after parking my WRX. Is it possible that someone has an LGT with less miles on it than GTEASER's? Enjoy the new... tighter... rear end!!! "Who doesn't enjoy a tight rear end" - FJuan "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Endlinks aren't critical at all. FTFY [emoji6] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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