Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I recently purchased an 05 LGT off a friend who has had some running issues with it and didn't have time to work on it. The car had a horrible idle when I first picked it up, but I changed the plugs and has been better. However, being an 05 LGT with has an EJ25 engine, the plugs that came out of the car were EJ20 plugs and were capped wrong. Realizing this, I went to the store, purchased the proper NGK SILFR6A plugs and pooped them in the car. Fingers crossed it would solve the running issue I started the car and it ran terribly. I pulled the plugs and noticed that cylinder 4 and 2 hit the plugs just enough to bend the ground strap to the electrode on the plug. So now it has new EJ20 plugs due to the shorter thread length and is running, but running rich at 10+:1 nearly all the time except idle where it reads 13.0-13.9. My question is why the plugs designed to be used in this car are hitting the piston. I doubt it would be possible to tighten them to the point they would make contact with the piston. The only explanation I can come up with is the engine/heads were machined and the gaps were altered. Any help would be great with any of the issues increasing with. Thanks in advance, Ryan H. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 ...are you SURE it has an EJ25? an EJ20 (or 22 for that sweet sweet closed deck) can be swapped in. Spark plugs when torqued properly should absolutely not make contact with the pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 ...are you SURE it has an EJ25? an EJ20 (or 22 for that sweet sweet closed deck) can be swapped in. Spark plugs when torqued properly should absolutely not make contact with the pistons. It says EJ25 on the top of the block, that's the only thing I can really go off. Like I said, it could be modified, but I have no way to determine whether that's the case or not without pulling it apart. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Can you see some of the picture of our engines here on the forum, does your's look like them ? We also have idle issues from the black O-rings at the intake manifold to TGV's when you see the new larger orange ones, you'll understand. The black ones can leak when its cold outside. Where do you live ? You may also want to PM "Underdog" and see if he has info that may help. He knows these cars pretty well. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 Can you see some of the picture of our engines here on the forum, does your's look like them ? We also have idle issues from the black O-rings at the intake manifold to TGV's when you see the new larger orange ones, you'll understand. The black ones can leak when its cold outside. Where do you live ? You may also want to PM "Underdog" and see if he has info that may help. He knows these cars pretty well. I live in upstate NY. I haven't started this car when it's been below 70 yet. It looks identical. The idle is really spotty. It usually starts fine then as it warms up it starts to drop idle then bump back up. Meanwhile the A/F jumps to like 17-15. Just the other day it threw a code for the Wastegate out of range, so I was going to look at sorting that out. Not sure if that can lead to any other problem besides boost issues. Also, when it rains, the car is absolutely terrible if you try and start it. It starts "okay" then reads 20:1 A/F and starts sputtering. The previous owner told me that after it warms up it goes back to normal, but I don't want to have it run like that for a long period of time to find out... Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 You may want to contact Brian at www.tuningalliance.com he may be able to help you. Just remember them when you need parts and tuning. Have you made sure the sensors and all electrical connectors are tight and the contacts clean ? have you done a boost/vacuum leak test to make sure all hose are connected ? Are the ground wires all in good shape ? I just replaced the two lower ground wires on the my 09 the other day. There are simple things you should check before you start throwing money at this. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 You may want to contact Brian at www.tuningalliance.com he may be able to help you. Just remember them when you need parts and tuning. Have you made sure the sensors and all electrical connectors are tight and the contacts clean ? have you done a boost/vacuum leak test to make sure all hose are connected ? Are the ground wires all in good shape ? I just replaced the two lower ground wires on the my 09 the other day. There are simple things you should check before you start throwing money at this. The boost and vacuum are good and I've checked every single connector to make sure its connected all the way. There is only 1 connector that I wasn't 100% about and that was the injector clip for cylinder 4. Its connector and can't be pulled off, but it wiggles slightly. I haven't checked the grounds too much, other than to see they're where they need to be and are connected. Just the other day I heard a weird squeak when priming the fuel pump. Not sure what it is, but it sounded like it came from under the clutch pedal area. Always a possibility that could play a roll as well... Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 We still need to figure out why the plugs got hit by the pistons... There are B25 number in the heads somewhere, may be check that to make sure which heads you have. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted August 29, 2016 Author Share Posted August 29, 2016 We still need to figure out why the plugs got hit by the pistons... There are B25 number in the heads somewhere, may be check that to make sure which heads you have. I'll take a look at the heads when I get time. I have the car running now with the proper plugs and haven't had them hit yet. Idk what changed, but they seem to be working fine. I was talking to a friend who is a Subaru but and explained that the stock intercooler tends to leak at the end tanks and could cause it to run rich. The Cobb accessport says it has a perrin TMIC, but it doesn't appear to actually have one on the car itself. The AFR upon warm up is still sporadic. Ranging from 10-17 at times it typically stays around 14.7 for a while, but starts to go up and down randomly. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 The Perrin tmic is all aluminum no plastic. Only stock has plastic. If you have a Cobb AP, I suggest you contact www.tuningalliance.com and have them review your data log. Tell Brian or Mike I sent you. Where do you live ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 The Perrin tmic is all aluminum no plastic. Only stock has plastic. If you have a Cobb AP, I suggest you contact www.tuningalliance.com and have them review your data log. Tell Brian or Mike I sent you. Where do you live ? Love in upstate NY. I have a Cobb accessport, but I haven't got it to work in a while to get any data log information from it... I think it's missing a prong on the connector. I know, I know... Nothing seems to be going my way so far... I do appreciate all the help this far. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Cobb has a great support system, contact them about sending it back to them to fix. worst case your only a few hour drive from TA in Vernon CT, they are right off rt 84 exit 65. It may be worth the road trip... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 He's back with more problems! The car was running fine for a short spell and I got the Cobb AP fixed (thanks for the advise Max Capacity), but now I'm having even bigger problems. It started when the car was drivable. I would do pulls in 2nd to 4th gear and the car would always pull good in 2nd (possibly have a boost delay/leak), hit 3rd and it pulls and then falls on its face (cuts out within 1000rpm of redline). If I somehow made it through 3rd without the issue, it would do it in 4th, but NEVER in 1st or 2nd. I chalked it up to it cutting fuel for over boosting and just stayed out of boost so I could still drive it. One day; however, I was pulling the car up the driveway after driving it (gently) and as I reached the top and just pulled up slightly more, it made a pop/crack noise and started to run pig rich. I'm talking fuel just coming out the exhaust and going on the ground, rich. For this, I have no idea what would cause this to happen, especially when and how it happened... Does anyone have any ideas??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Try this. -BrianSubaru Low Pressure Boost Leak Testing.pdf Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Hint, a pint size paint can makes a nice plug. Like those small minwax stain cans you get for staining wood. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Hint, a pint size paint can makes a nice plug. Like those small minwax stain cans you get for staining wood. Can of beans worked for me 2 weekends ago lol -Brian Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 Thanks guys, I'll try this later today and see if I can't find anything [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted November 2, 2016 Author Share Posted November 2, 2016 So I just did the leak down test and it held pressure in the system. Plugged the hose with my thumb, waited 10 seconds and let go and air came back out. Any other ideas? P.S. Family Campbell's tomato soup worked wonders for me lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Bump* Anybody have an idea? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 One day; however, I was pulling the car up the driveway after driving it (gently) and as I reached the top and just pulled up slightly more, it made a pop/crack noise and started to run pig rich. I'm talking fuel just coming out the exhaust and going on the ground, rich. For this, I have no idea what would cause this to happen, especially when and how it happened... Does anyone have any ideas??? So it's still running that rich ? I would not have thought that was possible. I would get in touch with Brian and or talk with Mike at TA. Contact them from the links on his post. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Could a vacuum leak cause it to run that rich? Sure it would be rich, but dripping-out-of-the-exhaust rich? Did you ever figure out what was going on with your plugs? Did you find out if your heads are B25's? The casting number (B25, D25, etc) is on the bottom side of the heads, near the surface that mates with the valve cover. It'll probably be dirty, but you should be able to see it pretty easily from under the car. Remember the golden rule: give more pics = get more help My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_GXL_S4.5 Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 Could a vacuum leak cause it to run that rich? Sure it would be rich, but dripping-out-of-the-exhaust rich? Did you ever figure out what was going on with your plugs? Did you find out if your heads are B25's? The casting number (B25, D25, etc) is on the bottom side of the heads, near the surface that mates with the valve cover. It'll probably be dirty, but you should be able to see it pretty easily from under the car. Remember the golden rule: give more pics = get more help I haven't been able to get the car off the ground or high enough to look underneath. I return the one plugs a while ago and replaced them with a different set (same part number and haven't had any issues) so I have no clue what the deal was lol. Seems to be a recurring theme... Update: I'm taking the car to a close friend and Subaru guy up at CDI in Victor, NY in the hopes he can locate something. I'm getting fed up and loosing time to work on it due to my other build so I'm crossing fingers at this point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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