Apexofthevortex Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Hey everyone, I was out for a drive the other day and as soon as I got into boost my engine stalled and turned off. I cranked it three more times and it stalled twice then came back to a steady idle. It starts every time now but stumbles really hard when I get into boost. I'm thinking I might need to replace the fuel filter since it's never been changed and I'm at 90k miles does anyone have the part number handy? As always any insight to what the problem could be is much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Have you checked your fuel pump duty cycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Our filter is just the screen on the fuel pump. I think the odds of the sock being that plugged are pretty slim. You could have a fuel pressure issue. I would check fuel pressure if you have the capability. Any CEL? Could be plugs or a coil as well. Unfortunately these are all things that will need to be checked for a proper diag. Not sure if you have an AP. If you do, run a log while it is acting up and it may lead you in the right direction. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 It would be worth it to just go ahead with a new pump and filter with being at stage 2ish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 I used this Fuel Filter https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-pump-kits/det-9-301s-1005-deatschwerks-dw300-series-fuel-pump-w-install-kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 I'm referring to the white plastic housing the fuel pump sits in. I believe the actual fuel filter itself is in that unit. I'm gonna pull everything to check so I figure while I'm in there I might as well replace the fuel pump and sock too. No CELs so that's why I'm thinking it might not be the coils. When E-tuning with Mike he always mentioned that no matter what he did the mixture was lean, which is another reason I think it may be fuel related Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Oh now I see what you are talking about. I do not know anyone that has replaced that. Not sure on the cost, but I do not think it will be cheap. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 I replace that plastic part of filter assembly. It was about $100 for the part. It had more dirt in it than I expect at 60k miles. The fuel filter is listed as part of the 60k, 120k maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Anyone have a pic of this part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Anyone have a pic of this part? http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/sytydave/Subaru%20Legacy/68B7C0FA-ADD7-4442-A50E-4D97AB24B8A6_zpswngdrld8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 So the fuel pump housing, for that price it would be worth replacing. Basically a whole new unit for around $300, not bad at all. And very little fuss, pull out the old one put in the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 P/N 42072AJ070 http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD/FILTER-FUEL-PUMP/49249675/42072AJ070.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/262468515996?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 What are the symptoms of a timing belt going bad? My car is at 90k so definitely due for one soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IdentificationTag Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I think you should not wait for the symptoms, change interval is 60k miles as I remember Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I think you should not wait for the symptoms, change interval is 60k miles as I remember The serpentine belt is listed at every 60K. The timing is supposed to be around 105K My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IdentificationTag Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 sorry, my mistake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 I think 75-80k miles is when it is a good idea to pull an inspection cover and see how the tensioner is holding up. Maybe a good time to get one of those fancy inspection cameras to be sure it isn't leaking as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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