mcRen Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Tried installing the DP catted down pipe today on my 2009 GT Manual. Removed old downpipe and set it next to the Cobb DP. It is then that I noticed that the O2 location for the Cobb DP was lower by it looks 8". I went back under the car and the O2 line isn't close to reaching the location. Has anyone run into this? How did you handle this? I wasn't prepared to solder anything and then I was wondering about heat issues with doing that. So I re-installed the stock downpipe until I can figure the best approach for this. Any help is appreciated. On a positive note, the install is easier than installing a boost gauge and way easier than installing an oil pressure sensor to the oil galley plug.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Tried installing the DP catted down pipe today on my 2009 GT Manual. Removed old downpipe and set it next to the Cobb DP. It is then that I noticed that the O2 location for the Cobb DP was lower by it looks 8". I went back under the car and the O2 line isn't close to reaching the location. Has anyone run into this? How did you handle this? I wasn't prepared to solder anything and then I was wondering about heat issues with doing that. So I re-installed the stock downpipe until I can figure the best approach for this. Any help is appreciated. On a positive note, the install is easier than installing a boost gauge and way easier than installing an oil pressure sensor to the oil galley plug.... If you remove the wire harness clip from the transmission you can gain additional length for the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcRen Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Yeah tried that. I wasn't enough to run the extra length. I'll need to most likely solder the line and try again later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Yeah tried that. I wasn't enough to run the extra length. I'll need to most likely solder the line and try again later. That's very odd. I have a grimmspeed downpipe and was under the impression it had the O2 sensor furthest downstream and I was able to connect it by unbolting and unclipping the wire harness from the transmission. Sorry you're having issues. Since I don't have a Cobb downpipe I can't really say how it's done on one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phate Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 I had the same issue at first. Ended up un-clipping everything from the brackets when I first installed the downpipe (Invidia catted 5EAT-fitment). If I remember, it has to snake up over the transmission mount? Also, do you have the turbo support brackets in place? Without those, the turbo sort of flopped into a different position than it should have been, and it was harder to get everything hooked up. Once I installed the bracket, it was much easier to reconnect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcRen Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Thanks for the ideas guys, even the support from Cobb said it would fit. I guess I could have tried stretching it to the max but it didn't look like it had a chance to reach. Even unbolting the wire from the transmission it came up short. I had a buddy solder an extension that now fits. Car is very smooth now and doesn't have that hesitation and studder that the stage 1 map had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=568 or similar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 I've been postponing replacement of my downstream O2 sensor because I attempted to trace the wire from the sensor and "lost" it using my lazy method of not raising the car (2005 LGT Wagon manual transmission). Today I had to put the car on jack stands to shoot some PB Blaster on the fasteners for the rear subframe preparing for bushing replacements (different story and problem). So here's my chance to get better access and see where that wire goes. As it turns out, the wire goes into an area too confined to get my hands inside. I'm thinking this might be better done on a lift or a set of ramps. Moving along to do an oil change I happen to look down the rear of the engine bay and notice what seems to be my elusive wire going down to where I could no longer reach it from below. Interesting observation regarding the wire. Looks like there's a short "jumper" or extension wire (near the top) similar to what Perscitus posted above. I'm the original owner and there was never any modifications done in this area. So help me out please..... I have a Denso replacement sensor which has a couple clips/fasteners but I cannot see any place where they would attach. My Haynes manual (which has led me down the wrong path in the past) says Forester and Baja models do have points where these clips would be used (much like the upstream O2 sensor on my car). Haynes says the Legacy wiring just lays on top of the structural crossmember. True? Maybe multiple applications for this Denso sensor? And, is it best to go through the engine bay (with the engine cover removed) to unclip the sensor harness and feed the new wiring through? My dress shirt sleeve length is 36" so I do have a long reach. Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 I've been postponing replacement of my downstream O2 sensor because I attempted to trace the wire from the sensor and "lost" it using my lazy method of not raising the car (2005 LGT Wagon manual transmission). Today I had to put the car on jack stands to shoot some PB Blaster on the fasteners for the rear subframe preparing for bushing replacements (different story and problem). So here's my chance to get better access and see where that wire goes. As it turns out, the wire goes into an area too confined to get my hands inside. I'm thinking this might be better done on a lift or a set of ramps. Moving along to do an oil change I happen to look down the rear of the engine bay and notice what seems to be my elusive wire going down to where I could no longer reach it from below. Interesting observation regarding the wire. Looks like there's a short "jumper" or extension wire (near the top) similar to what Perscitus posted above. I'm the original owner and there was never any modifications done in this area. So help me out please..... I have a Denso replacement sensor which has a couple clips/fasteners but I cannot see any place where they would attach. My Haynes manual (which has led me down the wrong path in the past) says Forester and Baja models do have points where these clips would be used (much like the upstream O2 sensor on my car). Haynes says the Legacy wiring just lays on top of the structural crossmember. True? Maybe multiple applications for this Denso sensor? And, is it best to go through the engine bay (with the engine cover removed) to unclip the sensor harness and feed the new wiring through? My dress shirt sleeve length is 36" so I do have a long reach. Many thanks! Which denso part number? If it's the correct one it will clip in fine. The rear (downstream) O2 sensor does have a separate extension clip on the top/side of the transmission (at least on the 05 LGT). It goes something like this: O2 sensor--long wires--clip--short wires--clip. If the sensor you're removing has a lot of miles, be sure to use penetrating oil before trying to remove the sensor or else you'll round it off and have to go to an exhaust shop. I found it easiest to remove the wires from the top clip and then unbolt the sensor from under the car on ramps or jack stands. Then pull the harness out with the sensor. I reconnect everything outside of the car, pull the harness through, connect it and then bolt O2 sensor. I twist the sensor counterclockwise about 10 times before installing so the harness isn't twisted once the sensor is tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thanks for your reply. The part number is 234-4446. I did notice there's a different sensor for the automatic transmission. Mine's a 5 speed. Glad to hear about that extension cable. Haynes never mentioned it. Not surprised. I'm on board with unclipping at the top. It'll save me a long stretch to reach down below (could it be the engineers actually had some consideration for the poor fools who some day would need to replace the sensor?). I did spritz some PB Blaster on the sensor (at the base, not all over) and managed to break it loose a couple months ago. I only backed it out around 1/8 of a turn, then gently snugged it up again. I'm thinking of once I get the sensor out of the bung, cutting the wire at the sensor, and tying the new wiring harness to the old wiring and pulling the works out through the top. I'd wrap the sensor itself with protection to keep it from banging around while I'm pulling the wiring through. What about those clips/fasteners on the new replacement? Do they attach anywhere or do they just lay across the crossmember as advised by Haynes? Thanks for your help. Any other ideas out there to help me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thanks for your reply. The part number is 234-4446. I did notice there's a different sensor for the automatic transmission. Mine's a 5 speed. Glad to hear about that extension cable. Haynes never mentioned it. Not surprised. I'm on board with unclipping at the top. It'll save me a long stretch to reach down below (could it be the engineers actually had some consideration for the poor fools who some day would need to replace the sensor?). I did spritz some PB Blaster on the sensor (at the base, not all over) and managed to break it loose a couple months ago. I only backed it out around 1/8 of a turn, then gently snugged it up again. I'm thinking of once I get the sensor out of the bung, cutting the wire at the sensor, and tying the new wiring harness to the old wiring and pulling the works out through the top. I'd wrap the sensor itself with protection to keep it from banging around while I'm pulling the wiring through. What about those clips/fasteners on the new replacement? Do they attach anywhere or do they just lay across the crossmember as advised by Haynes? Thanks for your help. Any other ideas out there to help me? The clips should attach to the bracket on the transmssion and one on the transmission itself if I recall correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thank you. I should get a better view once the engine cover is removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerebral_1 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I had the same issue at first. Ended up un-clipping everything from the brackets when I first installed the downpipe (Invidia catted 5EAT-fitment). If I remember, it has to snake up over the transmission mount? Also, do you have the turbo support brackets in place? Without those, the turbo sort of flopped into a different position than it should have been, and it was harder to get everything hooked up. Once I installed the bracket, it was much easier to reconnect. ^^^This. I ran into this problem a few weeks ago too...ended up unclipping the entire harness and stretching it to the max and re-routing it so that it would barely reach. I don't want it like that for very long, so I bought the harness extension from Casper Electronics (see the link somebody posted above). This is the best solution and I hope to get it installed this week! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcRen Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Yeah to get the extra length we soldered wires from an old O2 sensor to get the required length. Then counter clockwised it a few and put it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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