stikiller Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Im starting to question me using my sti rods on my build. They have been refurbished and balanced with the rotating assembly. Im worried that they may not be good enough for the power that i will have. Before the rebuild i put down 390wt and 368 hp with 21 psi now ive got a fully built motor except new rods. I am expecting to be around 420-450 to the wheels this time around running more boost and ported heads. I dont know how much boost because i dont know how much my hta71 can put out. It was all dialed back because it was a stock block but now i can push it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 this is strictly on you... i must say that, before i say this. i forget how many miles you had on stock rods... the reused ones but sti rods are forged and are stronger than most. if someone cleared them, then they should be good. and you just should be aware that you are running 450 hp out of a 4 cylinder, on reused rods. Possibly same wrist pins? are those new? and should be expecting some sort of issues out of it after you start to get into the mileage (which i cannot give you a good range of someone else woud) that is stage 3. full on race car build. if thats what you want, get new rods. eagle rods, i hear, are good. i have no website for you, and am just posting to be your first and explain my own thoughts on things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikiller Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 Thanks man for the info. I've decided I'm going with new rods. Carillo h-beams I've put to much money and good parts to skimp now. Plus I'll have head room if I want to ad more power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Did you decide on a Tuner yet ? You may want to have Mike Kinsman of Tuning Alliance sell you the rods and do your tuning. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikiller Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 Yes I have he will be tuning and selling me the ap3 I don't know about the rods though I've got to shop around and see what price I can find them for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stikiller Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 Why would the shop that did all the machine work on my motor tell me I don't need to rebalance the rotating assembly with the new rods I plan on getting? The new rods are over 30 grams lighter then the original balance.ive read also that they should have other things also like my crank bolts,flex,plate,crank pulley. I have a 5eat so no clutch to add to that they just did my pistons,crank,rods,rings wrist pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 If your old rods all weighed exactly the same (to each other), and if your new rods all weigh exactly the same (to each other), then you shouldn't have to re-balance. Everything would just get equally lighter. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 This is because of the symetry of the Subaru engine, right? Every time a rod journal goes left one goes right at the same time, and every up has a matching down. So, if your crank is balanced to itself, and your pully, flywheel, etc are balanced... This skip the rods thing wouldn't not apply in, say, a V8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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