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Bad Drivetrain Vibration


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I know this has been covered several times, so give me some crap if you want, but I would like to get some specific input if you guys don't mind.

 

My 2005 LGT 5MT has recently developed a bad vibration under load. It starts around 40mph and slowly tapers off as speed gets faster. It feels as if the car is trying to shake itself apart, and is comparable to driving over the bumps on the side of highways.

 

The vibration only stops when I let off the gas, but also seems to come back under heavier engine braking. I cannot seem to feel of hear the vibration coming from specifically the front or rear, or side to side, yet I feel it in the steering wheel.

 

Took it to a dealership, paid them $50 for them to drive it down the road and take a look underneath. All they could tell me is, of course, I have a bad axle. They couldn't figure out which one specifically, and they were't even sure that was the problem. Nice, very helpful. They even suggested I have them install two new axles for over $1000 in parts and labor.

 

I have a crack in one of my cv boots, but it seems to not be leaking any grease. My tires are properly balanced, they have been fine for a long time before this issue.

 

So before I buy a two new front axles and install them hoping that solves it, any other suggestions or things to check out before, based on this specific description? Thanks in advance guys.

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I'm thinking propeller shaft carrier bearing.

 

Get under the car and see if you have movement in that bearing.

I replaced mine last Fall.

 

If you think the CV joint is bad, the test is normally driving the car in a tight circle and see if you have a clicking news.

 

Here, read about half way into the first post. You'll see how I tested my shaft.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/propeller-shaft-my-story-246593.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I'm thinking propeller shaft carrier bearing.

 

Get under the car and see if you have movement in that bearing.

I replaced mine last Fall.

 

If you think the CV joint is bad, the test is normally driving the car in a tight circle and see if you have a clicking news.

 

Here, read about half way into the first post. You'll see how I tested my shaft.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/propeller-shaft-my-story-246593.html

 

Thanks, I will check the carrier bearing tomorrow. I briefly checked for clicking noises in tight turns before and didn't hear anything, but maybe I missed it. I'll try that again too.

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Was there anything done to the car prior to the vibration developing? And you said you feel it in the steering wheel, but I'm guess you also feel it through the body?

What Max said, very possibly the carrier. There should be a little play to the rubber bushing around the bearing, but if the rubber is cracked or the bearing has play, then that's your problem. It could also be your drive shaft U-joints, though those don't fail very often.

I have my doubts about its being a bad axle, and I certainly wouldn't just start throwing new axles at it!

I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here.
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It does sound like a bearing.

 

But, try this: when you get under the car, check for ANY lateral play in the driveshafts. If there is, it's likely that one of the DOJs on the shaft is failing. When this happened to me, there was zero noise at full lock, which points to the inner joint.

 

There is supposed to be plenty of axial play, so if you find that the shaft will move half an inch in and out of the boots, that's a non-issue. However, there's supposed to be zero lateral play (across the thickness of the shaft), so even as little as 1/32" can cause weird (and strong!) vibrations.

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Was there anything done to the car prior to the vibration developing? And you said you feel it in the steering wheel, but I'm guess you also feel it through the body?

What Max said, very possibly the carrier. There should be a little play to the rubber bushing around the bearing, but if the rubber is cracked or the bearing has play, then that's your problem. It could also be your drive shaft U-joints, though those don't fail very often.

I have my doubts about its being a bad axle, and I certainly wouldn't just start throwing new axles at it!

 

I had a new engine put in 3000 miles ago, other than that no work was done. The vibration is easily felt everywhere inside the car.

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I had a new engine put in 3000 miles ago, other than that no work was done. The vibration is easily felt everywhere inside the car.

 

The last line of that makes me thing propeller shaft carrier bearing.

 

Can you feel it with your elbow on the center arm rest ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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The last line of that makes me thing propeller shaft carrier bearing.

 

Can you feel it with your elbow on the center arm rest ?

 

I feel it on the armrest, but the same amount as anywhere else in the car. I was about to go check, aaand now its raining. I will have to wait until tomorrow I guess.

 

Out of curiosity, if it is the carrier bearing, how bad do you think it is to drive on? I'm guessing quite bad.

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Depends on how bad it is. I don't think I'd be dropping the clutch at 5500rpm trying to do a burnout. but if you drive it normal, it should be fine for a little while, let your elbow tell you.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Having this same type of issue on my 98 OB wagon. It shudders like hell when I go around a corner and accelerate. How much up and down movement in the carrier bearing is acceptable? I checked the U-joints when I had the transmission disassembled (took the rear clutch pack off and cleaned up the grooves in the basket) and they all seemed to be fine, but I didn't really pay attention to the carrier bearing.

 

I'm tearing my hair out on this damn thing. I HOPE it's not the transmission (just put in about 2000 miles ago along with the matching rear differential, and it's been not good since) but if it is, I might just part the damn thing out. No rust on a 98 and I have too much money in it now.

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There should be zero movent in the bearing itself. The rubber around it will give a little, maybe 1/4" or so. But if you move the driveshaft up/down or side to side and you can feel a metal on metal thunk then you definitely need a new bearing. And if the whole thing moves around like an inch or more then the rubber is broken and you'll also need a new carrier assembly.
I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here.
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When my carrier bearing failed it was super sloppy, drive shaft would actually rock around like a random orbit polisher, major clunks while driving, when I took the shaft off the car the bearing literally fell apart. Been running custom 1 piece now happily
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The custom one piece has replaceable U joints.

 

I think there is a link to them in JmP's sticky at the top of the 4th Gen forum and in a few threads.

 

You may be able to find it in the link in post #2 above.

 

 

Or click here, look at post #62 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p2.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Briefly checked some things today. The drive shaft seems to just be moving within rubber piece's flex and it seems normal based on what you guys described. I cant notice any clunking or real play in it. But if you look at the pictures there seems to be some metal shavings around the end of it. Not sure what that could have come from. (crappy picture i know, didn't get a chance to take off the heatshields to get a better look).

 

Also I put up a picture of the rear U joint, I figured you guys might see something wrong with it that I dont, lol. There also isn't any play in the U joint area.

20160524_202140.thumb.jpg.08eaca0f1dd69002fbf013cc5d2524bd.jpg

20160524_202255.thumb.jpg.fe377939263a36613fdace0cc297a85e.jpg

20160526_235833.png.thumb.jpg.8c771c317b952caf3bf90e00aa69006e.jpg

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Thinking more about mine. I think I would hear a clinking sound sometimes while waiting in line after work to leave the parking lot, when I let the clutch out.

 

Which is another sign of a bad U joint.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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