PearlWhiteLGT Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 So my old motor with 150k miles on it decided to finally go. Got a used one with 71k on it. Got it dropped in over the weekend and after the first start up we noticed a very clear ticking in the motor. Not the usual ticking from the motors. This is very loud and clear. It sounds like its coming from under the intake manifold, but it is also very distinct under the car by the oil pan. Anyone have any input on this? I have a video of it and the different locations but I don't think links are allowed? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 20, 2016 Moderators Share Posted April 20, 2016 ticking as in rod knock? If down towards the oil pan, could be a spun crank bearing. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Does the ticking frequency rise and fall with the engine RPM? Does it sound like a little man trying to escape from the depths of the engine using a hammer? If so, that's rod knock, and it's fatal. Only way to check for sure is to pull the oil pan and check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlWhiteLGT Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 ticking as in rod knock? If down towards the oil pan, could be a spun crank bearing. Does the ticking frequency rise and fall with the engine RPM? Does it sound like a little man trying to escape from the depths of the engine using a hammer? If so, that's rod knock, and it's fatal. Only way to check for sure is to pull the oil pan and check. Yeah. It goes to the RPM. What do you do about that? its still drivable. Im not running it now. Only put about 50 miles on since its been dropped in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 20, 2016 Moderators Share Posted April 20, 2016 Yeah. It goes to the RPM. What do you do about that? its still drivable. Im not running it now. Only put about 50 miles on since its been dropped in. Basically it's driveable until it's not (physically), but it's not recommended. The bearing material is floating around in the oil at this point (potentially) and could cause further damage to the motor, heads, or turbo. long story short, it's a bad motor. It was bad when it came out of the donor vehicle. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Basically it's driveable until it's not (physically), but it's not recommended. The bearing material is floating around in the oil at this point (potentially) and could cause further damage to the motor, heads, or turbo. long story short, it's a bad motor. It was bad when it came out of the donor vehicle. Reason I ended up just pulling mine and chose the rebuild option. Never tested if ran notes made me not trust it. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Did you get a guaranty with that engine ? If so your going to need to use it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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