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JayRex - 5EAT Rebuild


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I was excited to see some name brands on my frictions and steels:



So I put the new frictions and steels in. For some reason I thought the last steel in the packs were some sort of special spacer, so I was basically short one steel for each pack. Note that if you use my buy list, one extra steel needed for the input, direct, and high/low rev sets. I just cleaned up the nicest one (the one in the bottom of each) and put it back together.


Specs were a little too tight or RIGHT on the low end. I guess that's better than loose, but it has me a little worried. I'm thinking after a couple miles these will free up by a few thou and be sitting nicely on the low side.... or I'll burn em all up and be right back where I was. ;)


To measure you stick a feeler gauge in between the snap ring and the retainer plate(thicker steel).


Not all the specs were in the FSM, so I ended up scavenging some specs from different threads here. The input clutch mainly. You may use my specs, but don't quote me on these, its not my fault if you break your stuff. You can keep reading and find out later if I broke mine! :lol:


Reverse Brake:

Spec: .028" - .043"

Measured: .028"


High, Low Rev:

Spec: .070" - .087"

Measured: .071"



Spec: .024" -.039"

Measured: .022" <----These are good per ClimberD - EDIT



Spec: .045" - .065"

Measured: .035" <----These are good per ClimberD - EDIT


So a little bit of a problem on the input. I'm inclined to leave it and 'wing it'. Its the pack that gets the most wear anyway. :p


Here are a few pictures of the packs going back together.


This is the pump, and input, with the sun gears:




This is the Direct and High Low Rev nested together with... a shaft:




This is where I'm stuck (reverse pack), trying to figure out how this leaf spring sits:





It makes sense in the picture, but when you actually go to put it in.... you're like... what? but where do I...

Edited by jayrex
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I had the case upside down and was convinced it went in the 'top'.... would help if I put it in the real top. Thanks to ClimberD for pointing this out. Now I clearly see in the diagram that the ribs are a different size. Will post a pic when I get in in there. ;)


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See that gap in the teeth? Yea, it goes right there:lol:



Keep up the good work. I have a spare trans that I will be diving into sometime soon. :wub:


A spare would be quite the luxury. :lol:

I would really recommend those upgraded bushings. They just seem right after you install them.

This has all been pretty easy so far, but every once in a while I am not sure if I flipped a ring around or not. So be extra aware of orientation and maybe take a picture every time you touch something just in case. This clip has been the only confusing part so far. And its only because it popped out during disassembly and I didnt see where it came from.

Thats my story and I'm stickin to it. ;)

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Already have diff bushings and VB mod.


This trans will get the shafts welded together for native RWD with the clutchpack driving the front.


Dayum, you so fancy. ;)


Seriously thou, that's going to be awesome. Shoot us some pics when you get into that project.

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I know we texted about it but in case anyone reads this in the future, your input and direct tolerances are good!


Thanks, forgot to update that. ;)

... the level of customer service that comes with your bushings. :lol:


Working on getting the longblock together now, but Im about to get this trans bolted back together very soon. Picked up the front and rear gaskets yesterday.

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Trans is basically done, just need to bolt up some of the little brackets for the wiring. I need to hit up my reference pics to get those settled properly.


Somehow I ordered the wrong rear trans case seal. I think it was miscommunication over the phone with my local Subaru parts place.

31496AA000 GSKT-TRANS CASE, IMD <--should be 'REAR'

I didn't even put this in because I didn't want to take it apart.


So the part number I mentioned earlier is the one you need.

I ended up cleaning my old one and using a bit of ultra grey on it. Rather than wait a week for a new one. It was in okay shape anyway. The front gasket is the one I really needed anyway. It was warped and kinked like crazy. I don't even know how it could get like that while sandwiched between metal.



The rear section was a little tricky to get back together. There is a bearing on the center diff shaft that is slightly press fit when you put it back into the main case. In the picture below you can see the center diff already in the case (middle of picture - bottom half is rear housing)




I noticed the gears were not aligning the first time I put it in; only half engaged. Looked like this... not good.





I tapped lightly on the edge of clutch pack housing on the center diff to seat it. Its all I could do to get it in there. Looked like this when seated. ; slightly 'past' the mating gear. That mating gear had a bit of movement, and I think it will align perfectly once the pump goes in. I was poking at it a bit, and convinced myself this was the case. :p




Side view for reference, fully seated.




I kept trying to put the extension housing on with the rear shaft assembly loaded into the housing. Like this:



That wasn't working. I ended up pulling the assembly out of the tail housing, mounting that, and then tapped the housing on - because there is another one of those (lightly) press fit bearings in the tail section. (big bearing in the pic)


So I got it setup like this and put the housing on over top.


Okay onto the front section.


This is how it looks with the rear done:




The direct and high-low-rev nested first, and then put in. Lots of twisting here, second reference pic shows how far it went in:





New front gasket on the pump (with the input clutch attached):




Got a little stuck here. It took an uncomfortable amount of hammering to get this to mate flush. I did not want to pull it in with the bolts as I actually have had 2 strip out while disassembling. Something to do with the aluminum corroding. The inner alum threads were stuck to the bolt when I pulled it out. I just chased the hole with a tap (M10 x 1.25) and added some ultra grey to the threads. :p




The brain is in!




Pan is on and ready to rock... mostly.

Broke a pan bolt - hence the vicegrip holding the pan tight in that spot while the ultra grey works. Going to drill it out later, its a thru bolt so no metal bits will get into the pan.




Not that hard, you can do et!


Since I changed so much stuff at once, I can't image this thing is going to work on first start, but one can hope! :p


But if it does, I'll have a 'built' 5EAT. :)


Once I get her moving, I will update with any good or bad news. I'd like to get a video of it shifting for you guys too. Thanks for reading.

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Wow is that thing tough to get back into the air and bolted up without a transmission jack. Its a lot easier to take out with gravity on your side. :)


Had help from a random Subie fan who just did a 6 speed swap. He knew what we were up against. I didn't know it was going to be quite that difficult. Definitely a two person job.


Many thanks to Chris ;)

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Finally got it running today. Pulled some trans codes.


P0700 - I think this is the generic "there is a trans code" code that is sent to/by the ECM

caused by this code:


P0712 - "Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input"


Wondering if this could be caused by air pockets, I idled the car for 10 mins and then went for a 5 min drive this popped on around then. Need to call it a night, so I'll dig into it a bit more tomorrow. I have the TCU reset cable/software.

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All connectors checked. Probed some wires with my multi-meter per FSM. Was supposed to get a resistance of 500 to 1500 ohms across some pins. Got 0.

So that means I need to drain the trans and get at the valve body for more checking. :mad:


I don't even know if I'll see anything when I get in there. Not fun.


Wondering how much damage I'd do if I spoofed the resistance in the normal range, say 1000 ohms. I have a trans temp gauge installed anyway. :rolleyes:


Probably a bad idea, but so is a new valve body. Can't buy valve body 'components'.

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My resistor hack worked. That problem is out of the way for now.


Problems continue though (these are not new issues due to my hack)




This code is putting everything in limp mode. Which makes all kinds of shifting issues.


The air bag light is on too, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the steering wheel. I may have spun it around too much (had my steering rack out). Not sure if this might have something to do with the sport buttons too. I can hear something lightly scraping inside the steering wheel when I move it. I opened the steering column cover, but I haven't found anything yet. This is turning into a real PITA.


EDIT: Killed my clock spring. Haven't actually seen it yet, but based on some internetting, I probably ripped that bad boy right out. Hopefully a replacement will fix both issues.

Edited by jayrex
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All connectors checked. Probed some wires with my multi-meter per FSM. Was supposed to get a resistance of 500 to 1500 ohms across some pins. Got 0.

So that means I need to drain the trans and get at the valve body for more checking. :mad:


I don't even know if I'll see anything when I get in there. Not fun.


Wondering how much damage I'd do if I spoofed the resistance in the normal range, say 1000 ohms. I have a trans temp gauge installed anyway. :rolleyes:


Probably a bad idea, but so is a new valve body. Can't buy valve body 'components'.


I would PM climberD about that, I'm sure he has a pile of 'mostly working' valvebodies.


I do indeed have plenty of these control boards, and inhibitor switches, depending on which temp sensor got damaged. Would be a relatively easy swap, and will eliminate any potential issues in the future with regards to one sensor reading X and one reading a distant Y. Just in case you want to go at it yet again.

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Very cool, thanks ClimberD. My 'hack' is just a resistor spliced onto the wiring harness, I did not go into the pan to implement the fix. Easily removed, as I did not cut any wires.


I will look into a permanent solution once I figure out this P1817 code. Could this be caused by a broken clock spring? I am almost positive I damaged it (used one will arrive early next week). I didn't touch the steering wheel buttons, just the manual mode on the shifter. Then this error comes up with sport mode blinking. Not sure if its angry because it doesn't see something coming from the steering wheel.


Also noticed something new yesterday. (could have been happening all along)

The PRND indicator light on the gauge cluster does not move, it just stays in Park. Is this indicative of anything specific?

Edited by jayrex
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I did not break that off, turned it 90 deg, as per FSM. My shifter arm puck thingy was lined up, used the IPT video to reinstall valve body. Might need to go in there and look to see if anything is wonky in there.


Feels like this trans is dying to be drained again. ;)

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tore apart my clock spring. The ribbon cable was def ripped from the connectors. Theres actually 2 ribbon cables in there, one was still attached, which is why the horn still worked. Hoping the cable was sending some weird signals to the trans during turning, causing the code.
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That cables only talked to the BIU, not the tcu directly. Shouldn't cause a TCU code


Can confirm. Removed the clock spring (aka roll connector) completely and reassembled the steering wheel. No change.


The code is thrown as soon as I touch sport mode. "gear position" on the AP is showing 0, regardless of gear.


Even before the code is thrown, its shifting bad. If you can even call it shifting, very unpredictable 'movements' happening.

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Looks like all the trouble shooting is done in the shift select lever, not the valve body connections. I think I'm going to procrastinate on inspecting the valve body, and start digging into the center console.





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