emt1581 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Last year in my 02 Forester I replaced the front passenger's CV joint. Initially Subaru wanted around $220 for another one so I cheaped out and bought one online for $60 or so. Immediately it started rattling something terrible! I went to Napa and bought one of there's after they were recommended over on the Forester forum. Worked beautifully! By the way, the biggest pain in the whole process was a roll pin on the axle where it feeds into the front diff. The 06 Legacy doesn't have that pin does it? Doesn't look to. Anyway, just saw that there is a tear starting in her front right axle boot. It's not through yet but I have inspection coming up next month so I want to get a jump on it. Is the Legacy finicky about what brand you use? Is it prone to rattling or any other issues? Or will any one do? Ebay has them for $60, Napa wants $120-$132 and God knows what Subaru wants. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I can tell you from personal experience, my r/f was replaced with an aftermarket unit and its making racket. Going to change to a factory one real soon, or maybe someone has thoughts on some good units.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 I can tell you from personal experience, my r/f was replaced with an aftermarket unit and its making racket. Going to change to a factory one real soon, or maybe someone has thoughts on some good units.. Good to know and hopefully someone can share some good ones. Was there the roll pin? Thanks -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 i would say it depends. for my wifes 04 outback i got a crappy batch from advance auto that clicked and popped as soon as i installed it, i eventually replaced it and it was fine... it has the rollpins. For my 05 gt i have aftermarket on it and its fine. You will need to drain the transmission when you do it because the axles fit into the diffs. Pop the old one out with a pry bar. Make sure you tap the new ones in with a hammer/mallet all the way or it may pop out and then you will need to replace seals. Retorque the big nut to spec. Refill transmission. It may be easier to loosen shock camber bolts (mark before removal) when you remove axles or you can do the ball joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 The Legacy does not have a pin and axle stub. The axle pulls out completely from the diff. Issues using aftermarket axles are pretty common on the 05-09 Legacy. It's to the point where many of us just deal with rebooting the OE axle for $30 and the extra hour it takes to do it rather than risking a replacement axle. However, not everybody has issues with aftermarket axles, and there isn't an obvious bad axle to stay away from. Some people believe that any axle with the cup indentations (several large around the cup - you can't miss the unique design) will work well. The green OE axles had cup indentations, and they often end up being remanufactured and sold at part stores for cheap. However, I've seen smooth cupped ones cause issues that were clearly not a Subaru OE remanufactured part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 i would say it depends. for my wifes 04 outback i got a crappy batch from advance auto that clicked and popped as soon as i installed it, i eventually replaced it and it was fine... it has the rollpins. For my 05 gt i have aftermarket on it and its fine. You will need to drain the transmission when you do it because the axles fit into the diffs. Pop the old one out with a pry bar. Make sure you tap the new ones in with a hammer/mallet all the way or it may pop out and then you will need to replace seals. Retorque the big nut to spec. Refill transmission. It may be easier to loosen shock camber bolts (mark before removal) when you remove axles or you can do the ball joint. I've done a handful of axles and I never had to drain the transmission. Only a few drops will drip out. As you mentioned, I always undo the strut bolts and then swing the hub to the side. In the rust belt, the ball joint gets pretty seized up which makes that technique less preferable up here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 The Legacy does not have a pin and axle stub. The axle pulls out completely from the diff. Issues using aftermarket axles are pretty common on the 05-09 Legacy. It's to the point where many of us just deal with rebooting the OE axle for $30 and the extra hour it takes to do it rather than risking a replacement axle. However, not everybody has issues with aftermarket axles, and there isn't an obvious bad axle to stay away from. Some people believe that any axle with the cup indentations (several large around the cup - you can't miss the unique design) will work well. The green OE axles had cup indentations, and they often end up being remanufactured and sold at part stores for cheap. However, I've seen smooth cupped ones cause issues that were clearly not a Subaru OE remanufactured part. I've never rebooted, I have just replaced. I'm sure youtube has vids how to do it. Any in particular anyone would suggest for our specific model? Thanks -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Holy hell! It's super easy to do the boot instead of replacing the whole thing! I wish I would have known that and saved myself all the frustration when I did my Forester. Might be optimistic but I bet I can have this done in an hour and definitely well under two. One question...can I use regular hi-temp grease in the boot or is there special grease I need to get? Thanks -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 If you can get it done in an hour, you are doing great! It took me an hour to get the axle off, another to clean reboot it and put back together, then at least another hour to get everything bolted back up to the car. Just noticed my drivers side is starting to leak some grease too. So, I have that to look forward too. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 If you can get it done in an hour, you are doing great! It took me an hour to get the axle off, another to clean reboot it and put back together, then at least another hour to get everything bolted back up to the car. Just noticed my drivers side is starting to leak some grease too. So, I have that to look forward too. In the vid I saw, I'm pretty sure I don't even need to mess with the axle nut/hub area. Just undo the sacrificial clamp (or whatever it's called), pull a clip out of the green can that connects to the front diff, take a c-clip off the end of the joint, slide some parts off to expose the bare axle, then do everything in reverse with the new boot/kit. Is that what you meant by getting the axle off or did you actually remove the whole axle and do it away from the car? This is the vid I watched btw.... Thanks -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 One question...can I use regular hi-temp grease in the boot or is there special grease I need to get? The boot kits come with a baggie of new axle grease. I usually order new boots from rockauto.com. Any brand boot works fine, but just be aware thebinner and outer boot are different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Nice video! I never thought of leaving the axle in the diff before. Pretty clever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 The boot kits come with a baggie of new axle grease. I usually order new boots from rockauto.com. Any brand boot works fine, but just be aware thebinner and outer boot are different. Yeah I was kinda curious about that. I see a bunch of "outer" boots for $17 shipped on ebay...I guess I have to search for inner boots. I also thought about it and if I'm going to have to get an alignment after replacing the one boot...I'm thinking I might as well do both boots on both sides...that way I should be good to go for a LOONNNGG time. Thoughts? Thanks -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 You want the inner boot. Some people may disagree but if you mark the top strut bolts (camber/eccentric) position relative to the strut, it will maintain your alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 You want the inner boot. Some people may disagree but if you mark the top strut bolts (camber/eccentric) position relative to the strut, it will maintain your alignment. I saw that in the vid I posted. However, I'm not sure how that would maintain the alignment. Seems like you mark the bolt and the bracket to ensure they line up when tightening....but it would seem like there is more to maintaining the alignment that that. Maybe not. -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 That strut bolt adjusts the front camber. The tie rod sets the front toe, and you aren't touching that. Caster isn't adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Interesting approach to replacing the boot, looks good as long as you don't mind doing most of the work in a tight space like that. He seems to know what he's doing, but I'd have to wonder about the clamps letting grease seep out reusing them the way he did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Interesting approach to replacing the boot, looks good as long as you don't mind doing most of the work in a tight space like that. He seems to know what he's doing, but I'd have to wonder about the clamps letting grease seep out reusing them the way he did. Yeah, I thought the same...I didn't think you were supposed to re-use those or the ones with the little hooks. I thought both were single use only. -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I've done a handful of axles and I never had to drain the transmission. Only a few drops will drip out. As you mentioned, I always undo the strut bolts and then swing the hub to the side. In the rust belt, the ball joint gets pretty seized up which makes that technique less preferable up here. i always was scared about that since i could see through the transmission. i will try that next time, which hopefully wont be for a bit. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 After having 3 axles over the years in the left front, I finally smartened up and had the right front rebooted last year when it had about 212,000 miles on it. The local mechanic around the corner from the house tried to fight me on it, said he wanted to replace it, I asked him to please reboot it. So he did. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 So when doing the outer boot, it seems a lot more involved. Is it? Or am I just seeing the process wrong? Thanks -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I would think it should be held together the same way. look it up in the service manual. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 So when doing the outer boot, it seems a lot more involved. Is it? Or am I just seeing the process wrong? Thanks -Emt1581 The outer boot can be more of a pain because it isn't held together with a clip. You have to use a hefty mallet/sledge to knock off the joint itself. You can also install a new boot for the outer by sliding a boot over the entire axle when you have the inner portion taken apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1968mustagcoupe Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Just done driver side on wife's 05 legacy. Replaced axle with one From advance auto,2 weeks later it popped out of differential removed It and found it had snapped off at the c-clip, got another axle from bond Auto put that one in....popped out twice in 3 weeks I removed it and found That it was about 3/4 inches shorter then the original, brought that one with The original back to bond auto they matched it up with another new on put That one in and been fine so far. I just took the nut off the lower ball joint and Everything swings out of the way. Only other thing I can say is Give it a good Hit with a dead blow or it could pop out, super easy to change,, got it down to About 45 minutes start to finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt1581 Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 The outer boot can be more of a pain because it isn't held together with a clip. You have to use a hefty mallet/sledge to knock off the joint itself. You can also install a new boot for the outer by sliding a boot over the entire axle when you have the inner portion taken apart. That's a good idea, so no need to take off the axle nut and remove it from the hub. Do everything from the differential/inner side right? I see they sell both inner and outer boot kit combo's on ebay for around $23. Not bad compared to the $60-$120 for aftermarket and then the first born son cost if buying from Subaru. Thanks -Emt1581 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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