Bryce Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Hey, I'm new here and new to subies. Just got myself an 05 legacy GT wagon with 130k miles super cheap at a dealer auction. I bought it in-op, so I guess I shouldn't have expected much. I managed to get it to start and run for me, but it would hardly pull itself out of a parking spot, so I figured it was a clogged cat. Boy was I wrong. After towing it home, i pulled it into the garage and opened up the hood. I noticed that I had a coil pack that was pretty well covered in oil, so after managing to get it out, i noticed there was no spring in the stem. Not firing on a cylinder would explain a lot as to why it wouldn't run, especially when i put a spark plug socket in there only to realize there isn't a spark plug either. So, a tune up later, i'm on the road in a perfect driving subie. Then it happens. Not even a mile down the road, it starts to ping. Motor warms up pretty fast, but doesn't overheat. Out of nowhere, terrible knocking (seemed like compression knock?) then it dies and won't start back up. It smelled something horrible like gas, so i figured it might be an injector stuck open. After unplugging it, the motor ran (mostly) fine. Next day i start it up again just to see what it would do, and now there's top end noise on the other side of the motor. So, it looks like i'll be tearing down a motor here soon. My question to you guys: Anything in specific I should focus on when i'm doing the rebuild, or just common problems? I was hoping to only tear it down enough to find the issues and fix them, but if there's a chance something deeper will mess up soon, i'd like to nip it now. Here's a pic of it still in the parking lot of the auction. http://i63.tinypic.com/j6l5xf.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 What tranny is in the car ? There's not many white wagon's. Welcome to the forum. Read the sticky's at the top of the forum's, you'll learn a lot. My click here link has some good pictures. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 What tranny is in the car ? There's not many white wagon's. Welcome to the forum. Read the sticky's at the top of the forum's, you'll learn a lot. My click here link has some good pictures. It's an autotragic, unfortunately. I plan on doing a swap if possible. I haven't done any research yet, as the motor is my main concern. I'll give those stickies a read, thanks! That's an awesome build man. I'm hoping to do something similar. Vf52 a good improvement? My vf40 looks to be rebuilt recently, so I probably won't mess with it for awhile. I'm trying to get a build plan together though lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 I would think you'd want to make sure the injectors and coils are good before you tear everything apart. That way, when it comes time to start the rebuild, it should fire right up. You want to take as many variables out of the equation as possible. Find out what's wrong, even if you have to have a Pro trouble shoot it. Oh, give up on a 5mt swap, CC will not work. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 I would think you'd want to make sure the injectors and coils are good before you tear everything apart. That way, when it comes time to start the rebuild, it should fire right up. You want to take as many variables out of the equation as possible. Find out what's wrong, even if you have to have a Pro trouble shoot it. Oh, give up on a 5mt swap, CC will not work. I work at a dealership (albeit ford) so I have access to a lot more than most. She runs and all, just knocks something fierce when warm. Top end taps permanently now. I replaced all the coils and I've tested the injectors, ran compression tests, all the fun stuff in hopes it would be something simple. No luck. i mostly just want to know what is common to go bad on the motor, so I can replace it before it becomes a problem. Like for instance, I have a early 2000s motor in my 98 mustang. They have plastic intake plenums that are known for cracking, so I replaced it when I did the swap. Is there anything like that with the legacy? I drive 3 hours to school in another state every 8 weeks, and stay for eight weeks. I'm hoping to make it bulletproof as possible so I have little issue when I'm gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted March 23, 2016 Moderators Share Posted March 23, 2016 Shortblocks are known for going bad on these cars--ringlands and bearings, specifically. Replace all of those, rebuild the heads, and put everything back together. Remove both banjo bolt screens, replace the TGV-to manifold gaskets. Tighten / replace fuel line clamps under the intake manifold. Have the heads decked, leak tested, reset clearances and replace valves as needed. Reassemble with studs instead of bolts. Might be it... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 BMB knows what he's saying. That's the short version of most answers to that question. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 I work at a dealership (albeit ford) so I have access to a lot more than most. She runs and all, just knocks something fierce when warm. Top end taps permanently now. I replaced all the coils and I've tested the injectors, ran compression tests, all the fun stuff in hopes it would be something simple. No luck. i mostly just want to know what is common to go bad on the motor, so I can replace it before it becomes a problem. Like for instance, I have a early 2000s motor in my 98 mustang. They have plastic intake plenums that are known for cracking, so I replaced it when I did the swap. Is there anything like that with the legacy? I drive 3 hours to school in another state every 8 weeks, and stay for eight weeks. I'm hoping to make it bulletproof as possible so I have little issue when I'm gone. You don't mention anywhere if it is throwing codes. Presumably from the above, you already checked that and there is nothing, which, if it is running that badly seems odd. Another easy thing you could do before pulling the engine is to remove the timing cover and check the state of the belt, tensioner and the lining up of timing marks. Other than that, the guys here are pretty much laying out the process. Good luck. Helps a lot to have a warm/dry place to work out the puzzle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinking out side box Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I recommend running some MolySlip through it, maybe a Seafoam if money permits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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