59ctd Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Hi All. First post here. I am looking for options on a new exhaust for my 2008 2.5i Limited. Not sure if I need everything including the header or if just a cat back replacement will suffice. There is a leak somewhere - noticeable sound - I need to get under there today and figure that out. Online it seems like a LOT of options for the GT/turbo engine but not so many for the N/A engines. What are the significant differences in exhaust pipes between the turbo and n/a engines? Obviously the downpipe and header will be different but how about there on back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 This really all depends on whether or not you are looking to replace your exhaust with another factory setup, or go to an aftermarket system. Here's a link to a NA Outback exhaust thread. As far as I know, these 2 systems should be the same. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?t=327058 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Axle backs should fit from an lgt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Once you get a look under the car and see what is leaking you can make a better choice. Stock is always best and if i had to guess your flex joints or gaskets are leaking. But if you want to venture out: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/inferno-fabrication-2-5i-uel-kit-250184.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Yea, this past weekend I only got the rear jacked up to check a rear diff oil leak - it is coming out the vent at the top and recently changed so hopefully the level was just a bit high. All of the flanged exhaust joints are really rusty and are suspect. I did notice one black carbon spot on the cat pipe to y-pipe joint but I do not see any visible perforation. The exhaust leak is noticeably from the front so I suspect a header to engine gasket leak or somewhere on the header. Do the flex joints built into the stock header sometimes have cracking issues or...? The Inferno Fabrication headers look like an interesting option if I find I need to replace that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 That is good and these (like most OEM systems) are designed to rust on the outside but remain relatively intact for the life of the car. The rusty connections are still very solid until breeched. As far as the soot around the Y to CBE joint your donut gasket is probably shot and will need replacing. The flex joints do crack I've had two replaced on my stock manifold, to check them you would need to pull the manifold off or the heats shields rather and inspect them. If the manifold to exhaust port gaskets are leaking they are easy to replace while inspecting for the cracked flex sections. If multiple joints are cracked I would replace the whole piece rather than paying north of $200 (parts + labor) to replace the joints. A new manifold is less than $400 shipped and even come in 422 over 409. Not to mention OEM is OEM If your whole system is rotted then i would venture to aftermarket whole systems or even OEM replacement from a vendor such as Bosal or Walker. You have choices so do not fear your problem can be resolved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 Little delay on this post... Got the exhaust header off today. I don't see any signs of cracks or leaks on the header where the accordion shaped thingy is. If there is a crack somewhere is it fairly obvious where the leak is? This looks clean and just a bit rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 New front midpipe and rear y-pipe are on the 2.5i but something is not quite right. It seems like it hangs too low under the rear diff. The stock rubber support is about an inch too short. The y-pipe is a Walker brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Looks like you didn't hang it first prior to bolting it to the muffler. If so in-bolt it from the muffler and try to get that hanger in the rubber insulator. Its its too short you can ben the hanger or you can get a longer rubber piece. Since that Y-pipe is the replacement part for all Outbacks and Legacys they make them to fit all even though there are slight variations in the models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 I took off and returned the aftermarket y-pipe since it hung so low. The OEM pipe was really rusted at the rear flanges so I decided to use a composite type gasket vs the normal metallic laminated style. Finding a composite gasket for this was challenging but I noticed the hole spacing is pretty much the same between the header gaskets and the rear muffler flanges and I had just used composite style header gaskets on it. Bought another set of composite header gaskets and I cut one side off and used some permatex muffler & tailpipe sealer. They were sealed really well and no leaks after reassembly. A few days later the y-pipe developed a big crack right in the y split. Grrr. Removed the y-pipe yet again for more repairs. I cut the gussets off and ended up putting a mother of all goober welds in the y joint. It is sealed up now and sounds quiet like it should. After all this trouble I wish I would have just gone to the dealer and spent the ~$350 for the correct OEM y-pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Is the manifold heat shield really needed or can it be ditched? I thought I had it reassembled darn good but the thing is rattling again and is annoying as heck. I am wondering if I can just take it off altogether. This is on a 08 2.5i. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cseagle08 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Is the manifold heat shield really needed or can it be ditched? I thought I had it reassembled darn good but the thing is rattling again and is annoying as heck. I am wondering if I can just take it off altogether. This is on a 08 2.5i. I had a 2009 2.5i, you can totally remove the heat shield on the exhaust manifold. I did and ran it for 50k miles trouble free. Nothing melted, or even seemed to get hot. Plus - you can get to your oil filter WAY easier with it off. darn heat shield ends up rattling anyways over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 OK, removed most of the heat shield except the two tin pieces trapped under the ring that goes around the two O2 sensors. Was dead quiet for about 5 days now rattles again. Any trick to getting the heat shield off around the O2 sensors. Maybe the stainless steel around the O2 port is just pressed on and needs to be cut off to let the tin shield loose? I wan this heat shield completely gone if I have to take it all apart again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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