Because Racecar Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Well, this is turning into the brake kit install from hell. There are a couple minor issues, those we can cover later if we can solve the major issue. I got the calipers installed, finally bled, no air in the lines (though I could try the rears again) but I have almost no brake pedal pressure. The car will come to a stop, but the pedal is on the floor and its not locking up the wheels. This is a 4 piston kit, supposed to work with the stock master on a WRX. Are those bigger than ours? Do I need a prop valve to balance the f/r pressure? I may be taking the kit off and trying to resell it at this point, I'm out of ideas for the Subaru. Definitely not as easy to solve as the Vette... Help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Did you use the proper sequence to bleed them? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 Yeah. Rear R, rear L, front R, front L. Outer bleeder first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) You should have started with the closest to the hydraulic pump and worked back. Fr Fl rr rl. Edited Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Edited December 7, 2015 by FLlegacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 You should have started with the closest to the hydraulic pump and worked back. Fr Fl rr rl. Edited Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk I've never heard that, always heard start furthest from the hydraulics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 I've never heard that, always heard start furthest from the hydraulics. And how did that work for you? Lol. Not all systems are plumbed the same. I believe you also need to cycle the ABS pump to clear any air that may have entered it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 And how did that work for you? Lol. Not all systems are plumbed the same. I believe you also need to cycle the ABS pump to clear any air that may have entered it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk On every car I've ever owned up to this one? Perfectly. Why would I have any reason to believe that this one car is different from the other 31 cars I've owned and bled brakes on? None, I'd say. And shut up, yes, I have a condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcg_ Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 FWIW, the 2010 Subaru LGT service manual says "NOTE: Perform the operation in the order starting from the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fedaykin Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Bleed nipple on the top or bottom of the caliper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 On every car I've ever owned up to this one? Perfectly. Why would I have any reason to believe that this one car is different from the other 31 cars I've owned and bled brakes on? None, I'd say. And shut up, yes, I have a condition. I read through various threads asserting the same, but a quick search for subaru brake bleeding yielded the other method. If tried and true method isn't working maybe it's time to try something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 Bleed nipple on the top or bottom of the caliper? Dual bleeders, both pointed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 How many times did you bleed them? There have been several people on this forum that did it right the first time and still had a floored pedal. The second time they did the entire bleed sequence it worked as it should and had a proper pedal. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 I did, but last night realized my mistake. I bled the rears until the fluid was cleared out, then I bled the fronts. I had no pedal pressure, and assumed it was the newly installed empty calipers, so I rebled the fronts, but assumed the rears were OK. Turns out I did not take into account Subaru's crossed brake system. The air from the replaced hard line was drawn into the rear left line at some point. I bled the rear enough to get clear fluid, but the air hadn't reached the bleeder, or was stuck in the ABS block. Bleeding the fronts after that did not move it out that way, either. So last night I did a tedious semi-gravity bleed, which is marginally effective on those front calipers, but still works great on the rears. After a while I had almost a whole brake line length of air cone out the rear left. Definitely enough to make a squishy pedal. Was too late to start the car up and see how the pedal felt last night, but this evening I'll report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Awesome! And you gotta post a pic with those chunky calipers on there ASAP!!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 For those keeping score, the car is drivable. The pedal still doesn't have really solid feel. I can still kick off the ABS, and the car definitely stops. Quickly. Going to try bleeding again tomorrow. Hope I kicked any air left out to the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Got some more air out of the rear left. Brakes are solid. Car nose dives just a bit more now.... =0) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Uh.....pics? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Heh. It gets dark early and stays dark late, but here ya go! http://i.imgur.com/vnxT1p9h.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 You need to lose those stock wheels and show off that hardware. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 No kidding! I have some other wheels, but I tried to put them on and they didn't clear the calipers. Curses. So those will be up for sale. Sigh. Also, now there's a clunk. Possibly related to the calipers, or the new 20mm rear sway. This needs investigating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 What were these wilwoods on before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 A 2009 wrx. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Because Racecar Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 These things are huge. And they work. Best part is that they're completely benign in normal use, but stomp on them and they just kill speed like a boss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Any idea what the rotor diameter is on those? Stock LGT is like 310mm right? My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Yes, the proper way to bleed the brake lines is.... Rear L Rear R Front L Front R You always want to start from the furthest from the cylinder, then work your way to the closest to the cylinder. Always make sure that the cylinder is always full when bleeding to prevent air being sucked in. Check and refill after each corner of bleeding. If you continue to get air in the lines, then you have a leak some where in the system, or haven't tighten down the line to the calipers tight enough. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now