Horm2124 Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 First of I want to thank everybody for the great information on this forum you guys have been I big help. Some of you know my situation but I will recap. I got my 05, lgt with 126xxx the turbocharger is blown ( no boost, nasty rattling sound ). http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/31c08b59a9b54dad4f9af7d0489b49fc.jpg Here are my results from black stone. It seems pretty bad. I now the car hasn't run much since the turbo blew so I think the contamination should be contained to the oil pan pickup tune and oil cooler so I was going to replace those. I was unsure about the oil pump because I think the filter comes before the pump in the system so the filter should stop the contaminants. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Then I was thinking about trying to do some kind of custom oil feed lines to the turbo and the ovacs with inline screen filters. I was Going to use braided steel oil lines. Anybody done something like this. The next thing is I am having a hard time finding a replacement pick up tube and oil cooler. Where has anybody found these? Any help or advice you could give me would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Read the sticky's. Lots of answers to most of your questions there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 First of I want to thank everybody for the great information on this forum you guys have been I big help. I now the car hasn't run much since the turbo blew so I think the contamination should be contained to the oil pan pickup tune and oil cooler so I was going to replace those. I was unsure about the oil pump because I think the filter comes before the pump in the system so the filter should stop the contaminants. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Then I was thinking about trying to do some kind of custom oil feed lines to the turbo and the ovacs with inline screen filters. I was Going to use braided steel oil lines. Anybody done something like this. The next thing is I am having a hard time finding a replacement pick up tube and oil cooler. Where has anybody found these? Any help or advice you could give me would be great. 1. Haven't run much? Or haven't run at all. If you ran it at all chances are you have more damage then just the oil pan, pickup tube, and oil cooler. Generally (unfortunately) if the car was turned on at all after the turbo blew there is irreparable damage to the shortblock. You might be lucky though and performing an engine oil flush (use lot's of oil) could be enough. Most aren't and continue to blow turbos though. 2. Custom oil lines. Yes, lot's of people have been using these / making them. One vendor / Legacy GT enthusiast (M Sprank - infamous performance and tuning) makes the lines. This is the link for the turbo feed and AVCS feed lines http://www.infamousperformance.net/ipt/infamous-performance-turbo-oil-feed-lines/iptavkv2sub2/i-2118913.aspx. Other users have made them their selves. 3. Where are you looking? Just go to any Subaru parts vendor and getbuy an oil cooler.... Replacement pickup tube 1. KillerB, 2. Moroso. 3. OEM My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 This might be because of my lack of knowledge but isn't the oil filter there to make sure contaminants don't reach beyond the oil pan and filter not to mention the pick up tube screen. The return line from the turbo dumps right in to the oil pan so I don't see how there could be that much damage. Is there something I don't know here. if there is it would be great if someone could fill me in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 The screen on the pickup isn't dense enough to stop the tiny particles of metal from getting through. The oil pump draws from the pickup directly so that should be replaced as well. Like OB2.5XT said usually when these engines have turbos go it takes the engine with them. You could try just replacing the turbo and flushing the engine with oil a few times but theres a high likelyhood that those small parts of turbo bearing have contaminated the main bearings. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 You have most likely got shit connecting rod bearings and main crank bearings from all the turbo bearing ingested by your oil pump and pumped throughout the system. Sure oil filters filter most of the oil, but with as much metal as a turbo dumps into your pan you are shit out of luck. I know i have gone through this on a new shortblock. I tried the oil flushing in hopes of saving my new block, im now getting ready to drop a third block in. you may get 10,000 miles out of it, you may get 100 miles after flushing. As for your oil return line, it theoretically just dumps back into the pan, but, the oil return is built into the passenger side cylinder head. you dont need to fab any stainless steel lines here, you would have to tap the head to accept any an fittings which isnt something i would recommend you fux with. My rebuild thread has the stainless steel line that i fabbed up to replace the oil supply line to the turbo.. Before you go out making up some grand pipe dreams in your head as to what you're wanting to do, because racecar, educate yourself on the system first and then dream. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 So... Basically I'm screwed 16 ways from center. I guess all I can do is get it running clean it up real good and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 You have most likely got shit connecting rod bearings and main crank bearings from all the turbo bearing ingested by your oil pump and pumped throughout the system. Sure oil filters filter most of the oil, but with as much metal as a turbo dumps into your pan you are shit out of luck. I know i have gone through this on a new shortblock. I tried the oil flushing in hopes of saving my new block, im now getting ready to drop a third block in. you may get 10,000 miles out of it, you may get 100 miles after flushing. As for your oil return line, it theoretically just dumps back into the pan, but, the oil return is built into the passenger side cylinder head. you dont need to fab any stainless steel lines here, you would have to tap the head to accept any an fittings which isnt something i would recommend you fux with. My rebuild thread has the stainless steel line that i fabbed up to replace the oil supply line to the turbo.. Before you go out making up some grand pipe dreams in your head as to what you're wanting to do, because racecar, educate yourself on the system first and then dream. I got about 6000 or so of the flush before hard knock like tour came to town. Banjo's removed (too little too late) and the IP&T V2 kit is going on with the OEM banjo bolt on the right. You don't need the one on the left found in the kit as it flows way more than stock. Tha isn't just 1 large hole, there is a 2nd hole on the other side same size on the kit supplied bolt. http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/38CB1F7B-FF0C-4248-BBA6-40289225D202_zpsdltvrl6s.jpg~original http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/34C2764F-A9E6-44CE-A596-C47FECDD7035_zpsiwggvgpt.jpg~original The screen on the pickup isn't dense enough to stop the tiny particles of metal from getting through. The oil pump draws from the pickup directly so that should be replaced as well. Like OB2.5XT said usually when these engines have turbos go it takes the engine with them. You could try just replacing the turbo and flushing the engine with oil a few times but theres a high likelyhood that those small parts of turbo bearing have contaminated the main bearings. Yep, that's how I ended up here. 4 oil changes back to back shop tech and fram filters like that should do it. Nope! I replaced oil pump, oil cooler and OCV's oil wise. Water pump and other items due to age and I'm already that far into it with a new short block. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 My plan was to replace oil pan, oil cooler, oil pickup tube, oil pump if I can, ip&t filtered lines, then start changing oil like I am going for a world record 25,50,100,100,100,300,500,500,1000,1000,1000,1500,1500 send in a get to blackstone every 500 or so to see if I'm making progress or just wasting my time. I was also Going to get a oil pressure gage I can monitor to see if there is any drop in oil pressure so maybe I can catch it before it catastrophically fail and have it rebuilt. I'll run it by jmp when I order my turbo. I'll take any other suggestions you guys got crazy sane or other wise. Other then that all I can do is see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 I really appreciate the help guys. I know these question have been asked a hundred time before. I really appreciate you guys putting up with new guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 I could be wrong - but I am not sure that a drop in oil pressure will catch anything. The concern at this point is the small metal particles damaging your short block. Merc can speak better about how well the filter lines will protect the Turbo, but I am not sure if the filters get blocked enough to damage the filter if it will show up as a drop in oil pressure (I would assume if it does, it will be too late) My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 I was going clean the inline filter every chance I get swell as when I do the oil change. My thought with the oil pressure it should tell tell me if the tolerances are increasing on the crank and rod bearings I don't know how significant the drop will be but I'll take any chances I can get at catching it before it fails. Question so where does the damage to the short block normally occur. something I never thought to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 The actual damage isn't too the short block but to the main and rod bearings. It just so happens that buying a new assembled shortblock is cheaper or close to as cheap as the machine costs and other costs involved with reassembling and fixing your current block. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 I just talked to a guy from slow motion auto sports he said that the turbo failure usually cause the week factory ringlands to fail. Because of a combination of the metal contamination and lose of oil pressure from the turbo. So is he right or was that just a sale pitch for there rebuild services? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 The factory ringlands do frequently fail. That's what failed on mine. If you look in the Engine rebuilds sub-forum the rebuilds are due to turbo failure or ringland failure. boroscope / compression / leakdown test is how they verify the ringlands are alright. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 So basically it's a game of Russian rulet something is Going to get shot (bearing turbo ringlands) you just don't know what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 So basically it's a game of Russian rulet something is Going to get shot (bearing turbo ringlands) you just don't know what. The bullet was already fired. Chances are everything died. I know this sucks. Welcome to the club. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 19, 2015 Moderators Share Posted November 19, 2015 Just food for thought. You list the goal of 13 oil changes in 1500 miles. Call each change $25 for oil and $5 for a new filter, you're looking at nearly $400 worth of oil changes (plus your time) plus the pan / pickup / pump / cooler. So $400 in oil changes and what, $400 in other parts later you might still be likely to blow the motor and you'll be out $800 that you could have put towards a rebuild. That's nearly half the price of a new OEM block shipped to your door. If you drop your pan and find bearing material just bite the bullet and think seriously about a rebuild. Sell the old block to get a few bucks back, replace with new OEM block, have the heads refreshed, and be done. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horm2124 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Ok thanks I'll have to think about it. Question how do you guys tell when the piston is a tdc for a leak down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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