quick4dr Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 didn't even remove cover, just had to reach past my avo subframe connector. Got one side in under the lip of the dampener, then put the long bolt through, then lined up the other half and threaded the bolt in, threaded it until the two halves sandwich together, then take out the long bolt, drop the supplied anti seize on the short bolt and thread that through till it bottoms out and then torque to 10lbs. I didn't use the supplied allen key, I used same size on an extension with a ratchet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Alright, well thanks to you sir, I have one on order! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 I may try this on my Spec B and if it works put one on my race car. My main concern is that the bolt would work loose, the pieces start flopping around and jam your steering, which would be a disaster. I'll be using at least Loctite Blue and maybe Loctite Red on it! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parad1mg Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Ugh.. I hate you guys. Now I want one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 I may try this on my Spec B and if it works put one on my race car. My main concern is that the bolt would work loose, the pieces start flopping around and jam your steering, which would be a disaster. I'll be using at least Loctite Blue and maybe Loctite Red on it! you would be better off using the STI solid steering shaft. last thing you want is what you described on the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 An STI steering shaft is about the same price. Slightly harder installation through, might be able to find one for $50ish off of eBay. An Outback has a slightly longer steering shaft and we can't just switch them out for an STI shaft(so this is a good solution) My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 with the supplied anti seize and proper torque I don't think she's going anywhere. Worst off since even the short bolt threads through just enough, you could drill the end and use a cotter pin and Loctite on the threads. from speaking with Perrin they had no concerns of it backing out and coming apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Ordered. Curious if I will have the same feedback as quick4dr. The Outback has a slower rack, but I have all the bushings. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 you would be better off using the STI solid steering shaft. last thing you want is what you described on the track. I'll look into that. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 Ordered. Curious if I will have the same feedback as quick4dr. The Outback has a slower rack, but I have all the bushings. I think you will be very very happy.do the perrin demo video for yourself before you install it. have a friend turn the wheel while your on jack stands, or a lift. the perrin video didn't even do justice to how much flex mine had at 122k miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 While my engine is out of the Spec B it would be very easy to do this or an STI shaft. It's right there! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 ordered. Curious if i will have the same feedback as quick4dr. The outback has a slower rack, but i have all the bushings. installed yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 installed yet? Tomorrow. I guess NorCal and Oregon are really far a part. Shipping is slow. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) ******* awesome! Installed in about 5 minutes. Took less time to install than the damn fog lamp bulb that I changed too lol. Feels amazingly better. For anyone with steering slop that had already done rack bushings this will be a perfect match. Or just this for someone looking to tighten things up. Can't say it enough how much tighter the steering feels. Very BMW like you can feel the road Just did the installation. It feels great. My steering joint has some rust on it so it wasn't super easy to get in. Makes the steering feel heavier and I have to slightly adjust how I drive. Overall pleased with it. I am unsure what the point of loosening the universal joint prior to installation is though. And I wasn't able to get it seated as nicely as in the installation instructions. Edited November 17, 2015 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 yes I found that my normal driving turning timing had to be adjusted for the newly found precision in steering input. heavier indeed but not laggy. mine seated up nice first synching it together with the long bolt, if doing it again I might dab antiseize on the surface of the pieces to help them slide together when synching Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 bump, thought id update, been driving for 2 weeks now, cant believe how much nicer the legacy experience has become. Even with all upgraded bushings this lockdown makes a huge impact on steering feel. Car feels more precise through twisties, a much more point and click feel. also the feel being heavier helps a bit on nice straight pulls. Car just feels happier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Just carrying this over from the What did you do to your Outback thread - this is the review from WRX USA I agree with your take on it. It is like a brake master cylinder brace, you don't realize how much flex/slop there is until you add a brace. For those familiar with the Bay Area, I drove over 17 to Highway 1 to Davenport last night. Immediately I could tell a difference! The wheel is much heavier in your hands and steering is direct and communicative. You'd think locking out a dampener would cause you to feel more of the small stuff, like low speed over cobblestone/pavers, but it feels like the suspension absorbs all that rather than the weak link in the system, the dampener. After driving 17 (a 2 lane mountain highway between the South Bay and Santa Cruz), I could definitely see where the 15+ STi steering rack would make a huge difference at lower speeds on a curvier road. I checked the tightness this morning and it hadn't budged. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaybird2013 Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) Bump Just finished this installation, and I couldn't agree more about "the newly found precision in the steering input" as quick4dr put it. I test drove on the HW and back roads and the difference was felt immediately. I'm very happy with this modification! The steering slop has been eliminated, connection with the car has been enhanced, and the installation was breeze... maybe 15 minutes from start to finish. Edited November 12, 2016 by Jaybird2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDSubie4 Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 Rehashing this thread. Not to denounce the benefits of the mod, but wouldn't it be just as effective, or possibly more effective to get a solid feel in the cushy damper by just welding a couple of strips of sheet metal to the sides of what looks like the discs squishing the rubber damper together? With a good weld in place, it's probably cheaper and more in line with a completely solid steering damper per STI. I was looking at buying the damper but mechanic recommended this as an option? Any see problems with this? Imput would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 Rehashing this thread. Not to denounce the benefits of the mod, but wouldn't it be just as effective, or possibly more effective to get a solid feel in the cushy damper by just welding a couple of strips of sheet metal to the sides of what looks like the discs squishing the rubber damper together? With a good weld in place, it's probably cheaper and more in line with a completely solid steering damper per STI. I was looking at buying the damper but mechanic recommended this as an option? Any see problems with this? Imput would be appreciated. yes, that should be fine. Most of us don't have the ability to "just weld" though. And this is an easy DIY that you don't need to pay a mechanic to install. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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