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2000 Legacy L w/Blown head gaskets


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Before you replace the water pump, do a test to see if the head gasket is blown. Take off the radiator cap and fill the radiator with fluid. Start the car and watch for bubbles. if they continue and don't eventually stop, the head gasket is most likely leaking compressed gasses into the cooling system.

 

If this is the case, the reason why the car is overheating is because the thermostat is just below the water pump and the leaked gasses collect just before the impeller and leave the thermostat relatively dry, which gives a bad temperature reading and causes cavitation in the impeller. these two things together cause the thermostat to not open and poor circulation of coolant in the engine.

 

You can temporarily fix this problem by drilling a few small holes in the thermostat, allowing the air to dissipate and the thermostat works properly, cooling the engine. you still have a head gasket problem, but if you drive conservatively and suck the fluid from overflow back to the radiator when it fills, you can limp it along until you have time to replace the head gaskets.

 

I currently have this problem and drive my 2004 legacy 60 miles every day, for 2 weeks now with zero overheating.

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Water pump seal has gone. When you replace it do the T-belt (and tensioner, pulleys) at the same time. It's not due for one at that mileage, but might as well!

 

This is what I figured happened. That was the plan but im having a hard time finding time to do it. Also damn pulley bolt is discouraging.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So finally an update on this...

 

I used the bump the starter method to get the crank pulley bolt off. Worked like a charm. The crank pulley itself came right off with no problem.

 

It looks like the timing belt and water pump was done not too long ago. All pulleys and such parts are very clean.

 

Found the water pump to be leaking from the weep hole. I suspect it was replaced with a non OEM part and has failed.

 

Will order an OEM pump and gaskets and get it replaced.

 

Side note... When I took the timing belt off the left side cam spun about 80 degrees counter clockwise. I did have all the timing marks lined up so im not sure why this happened. Its going to be one hell of a job to get that thing lined back up with the tension from the valve springs.

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Its going to be one hell of a job to get that thing lined back up with the tension from the valve springs.

 

no it isn't.

when in the correctr timing position,

the cam shaft should sit in place.

if you bump it or tug on the belt it may jump,

but it will sit in place.

 

if it does not,

you are not in the correct timing position.

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I would let the car get warm and look under while running. It may help to isolate the leak.The curved hose from the water pump to the bypass pipe will sometimes develop a leak in the clamp area. You won't see it unless it's under pressure. A water pump when bad will leak from the weep hole, which is outside of the t belt cover.

Insofar as t stats go, Stant Xactstat #48457 is exactly the same as oem.

 

O.

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no it isn't.

when in the correctr timing position,

the cam shaft should sit in place.

if you bump it or tug on the belt it may jump,

but it will sit in place.

 

if it does not,

you are not in the correct timing position.

All of the marks were lined up. Only the left side moved, the right stayed put. If I try and return the left one to line up the mark I feel resistance like I'm pushing against valve Springs.

 

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk

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If I try and return the left one to line up the mark I feel resistance like I'm pushing against valve Springs.
correct, you are pushing against the valve springs.

but the cam shaft / sprocket will sit still with the valves open,

while in the correct timing position.

if not,

you are not in the correct position.

 

IF you have the crank in the correct position,

the key way in the crank shaft will be in the 6 0clock position,

and the hash mark on the REAR TAB of the crank sprocket will be up, at 12 oclock.

if this is the case, all pistons will be at mid stroke,

and you can rotate the driver side cam shaft any way you want without damage.

so move the cam to the position where it will sit still under load,

and you will find it is very nearly ''dead on'' the correct position.

 

try it.

if you are using the correct timing marks there can be NO DAMAGE.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Did get everything back together with no further problems. Fired up like a champ. Car was good for a couple days then overheated again. It seems to overheat randomly. It will be fine for a couple days then overheat. Really weird. Also getting a cylinder 4 misfire bit the car is not smoking from the exhaust and the spark plug looks normal. What else could cause random overheating like that?

 

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Possibly a thermostat?

 

 

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Just replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, and radiator cap all with OEM parts.

 

How important is it to use Subaru anti freeze with that additive? All I had at the time was some prestone 50/50 that I put in so I could give the car back to my nephew. You know how impatient 16 year olds are with cars lol.

 

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Did you properly bleed the cooling system? Very important or you will get random overheating like you described. As far as the misfire, that could be related or unrelated. I have heard of overheating causing that. For the coolant, nothing special, just 50/50.
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