1997 LGT Progress

[Succulent Bass]

Thanks Osei, and I will probably throw these in and see what happens.

 

I cleaned out cylinder 3 and 4 today, just pulled the spark plug wires and sprayed them out with brake cleaner and then used dust off to dry it out. Cylinder 3 wasn't bad at all, but 4 definitely had oil in it. I reset my ECU and I will see if it comes back on again. The spark plug wires are actually NGK's so I shouldn't have to replace them, I might just check them and make sure they are working to spec when I change the plugs.

 

Also, I picked up basically a full WRX "turbo kit" yesterday for $250 from a guy in town.

-TD04 with almost no shaft play, the compressor and turbine wheels both looked good and there was no noticeable scaring on he turbo inlet/exhaust outlets

-WRX TMIC

-WRX up pipe

-WRX crossover pipe

-WRX bypass valve

-Aftermarket crossover pipe (no brand markings, I'm guessing some Ebay rep)

-Aftermarket catless down pipe (Ebay no-namer)

-TurboXS Utec piggyback

-GC8 hood scoop and splitter

-Coolant hose kit for the TD04

 

Not a bad deal overall, I'm going to sell the Utec, and possibly a few other pieces to opt for replacements but it is pretty much all the major components I would need to run 5 psi on a FMU, minus all of the minor tid bits like fittings and braided lines.

 

With all of this in mind, I made a list of what other parts I need that weren't obvious to me like gaskets and brackets:

-Turbo EJ cross member (WRX/EJ22T)

-EJ22T turbo bracket (I'm not sure of another that will work, although I suspect a WRX one would suffice)

-5 PSI waste gate spring (EJ22T off of the VF11)

-EJ22T IACV

-Oil filter sandwich plate to run an oil line

-New air intake piping

-Gauges: A/F ratio, oil pressure, boost

-Wideband Oxygen sensor

-Possibly a boost controller (can be ran in line with a 12:1 FMU for some control)

-And possibly ARP head studs, because why not

 

There is a lot I haven't listed and a few things I need to figure out, but that's where I'm at right now. I'm debating selling the GC8 scoop and getting a new WRX/STI scoop just because the GC8 doesn't seem to pull a lot of air. I have a feeling that this is going to start as a simple and cheap build but will end up being a built short block that I drop in with a standalone. We will see what the future holds

[Osei]

WIsh you the best of fortune in your endeavor.

 

O.

[twisty]

twisty: I found the MSD 8239 on Amazon with Prime shipping as well as NGK 7600 spark plug wires for a 97' Impreza, just wanted to double check if that is the setup you are running on your wagon. And your opinion on whether the OEM plugs (PFR5B-11??) would be worth getting over the V-Powers (BKR5E-ll). After reading up on some of people's experience with changing plugs, it seems like the EJ's seem to like their OEM plugs quite a lot but I don't want to spend an extra $40 if I don't have to. I'm currently unemployed, so I'm trying to work within my budget which is seemingly difficult to do when it comes to my Lego.

 

thats the set up i have in the wagon, but i have the iridiums in it instead now. ive tried coppers, platinums and iridiums in that car, no real difference across the board. the coppers seemed as good as the iridiums, but i had to clean and change them more. the iridiums have been in for almost 4 years now, still good every time i check em out.

 

i havent switched the coil in the outback or the GT yet, but ive been wondering about alternatives, especially after reading recent reviews on the MSD coils.

 

i still have no real proof that the MSD actually made a difference, since mine went on the same time i redid the timing, plugs, wires and everything else. mpg did jump from 19ish to 28ish, but there was a lot of stuff fixed and upgraded at the same time that contributed to it. the car is doing about 24mpg now with my son driving it.

[Succulent Bass]

twisty: yeah with these codes I was looking at replacing it but now I'm glad I didn't. Friday night I started having even more issues with my car where it wouldn't want to start, and it was turning over slower and slower every time. I just figured the battery was done for. So I ordered an Optima RED35 which is what O'Reilly's said was the Optima replacement for my car. It was on Amazon for $160 with free shipping which was $50 cheaper than O'Reilly's after you give them your core. So we rewired the battery cables because the Optima from my dad's 66' Impala had the posts on the opposite side and the positive cable wasn't long enough. I got the battery all set up and went to turn the key just to find that it STILL wouldn't turn over. The battery was a little low, but it wasn't even turning it over. All I could hear was a click. So we start looking at the starter, and my dad followed the negative cable from the battery back to the starter to find that the bracket was not bolted on and the starter was missing the top bolt. I removed the nut off of the bottom stud, put the bracket on and tightened it down, and now not only does it turn over, but no more CEL! I can't believe it was that simple, I'll be going down to Pickapart today or tomorrow and getting the top bolt for the starter to finish that off, and when I get my red top in on Wednesday I'll be heading to my dads to rewire both battery cables and get it looking real nice. If I have some extra wiring I might attach another ground or two just for the hell of it, it should look a lot cleaner when I'm done. Thanks again for the help!

[Succulent Bass]

Update.

 

I haven't been able to do much to my car lately, but I did get the MSD 8239 installed, the NGK V-powers installed as well as some Bosche spark plug wires just to do the ignition system all at once. I was going to take twisty's advice and try to keep the original plug, but I ended up butt-splicing the Neon plug. Seems to run fine, I don't think there was anything wrong with my original ignition coil but the replacement doesn't seem to be harmful. I got 24 MPG in town on my last tank, but half was with the MSD and half was without it. My most recent tank went down to 21 MPG, but I have only been making short trips to places, sometimes not even getting the car warmed up before I arrive. And since I don't get to drive as much as I would like, I haven't been very light on the pedal lately. But I keep a log of fuel consumption so I will be able to see over time what happens with the MSD. Other than that, I think the only thing I've done is replace a few interior lights and my CTS, which actually made a huge difference. My old CTS was a giving terribly inaccurate readings and my temp gauge would go haywire when I accelerated. All fixed, it seems to pull smoother but it still has a pretty bad bucking problem. Still haven't figured that out yet.

 

On another note, I bought a Phase I EJ22E for my build next year. I paid $75 locally and took it home in my trunk. It's a little abused but I'm going to take it in and get it checked out to see if the block is any good. If not it isn't a big deal. The previous owner said he pulled it out of his Gen 1 Legacy because of a burnt valve (which is observable).

 

My build ideas are still developing. I'm still bouncing between going for the cheap FMU route and running low boost, or doing a standalone and really putting some money into this build. I've heard of people running 20 psi on an EJ22E, but I wouldn't need to run those pressures to achieve my goal. I'm thinking of running about 220 AWHP if I go the full empty-wallet route, mostly because it will cost me even more money with the rest of the N/A Subaru drivetrain being unable to take the torque abuse. If my build goes well and I create a strong and healthy engine, I can always turn up the boost or run E85 later for a few more ponies. By then I should have the money for a WRX 5MT or even the STI 6MT. I plan to keep my original EJ25D intact and all of exhaust to swap back in come emissions time, or if I am going full force in this build I will probably be able to renew my registration before I swap the engine in anyways.

 

The cheap route probably seems very ghetto to some people, but there are a few things about it that are pretty cool. First and foremost is the expense, which isn't much. I could basically get some heads and an intake and bolt it all up today. Additionally, you can vent to atmosphere which is not something most EJ's enjoy unless they are running a setup without a MAF. While that may not be worth it to most people, it is pretty cool to me. On top of that, there are a lot of expenses that go into high performance builds that aren't always necessary that are completely avoided. I will get the block checked either way, and whatever heads I pick up will be checked as well. But other than that, it's not a big deal to slap it all together. If the turbo has a little shaft play, it probably won't be an issue. If the block is a little worn in the cylinders, it probably won't be an issue. If the rotating assembly is used and abused, it probably won't be an issue. If it is set up within the boundaries that have been observed, it should last a while without failure. There is always the possibility of failure, but that comes with any engine build. Maybe I only get 15,000 miles out of it. Big deal. I would spend $1000 to drive a turbo Legacy for a year. Especially if in the process I got to learn something and have fun. That's just my $.02

 

A couple questions in the mean time:

 

1.) I'm trying to replace my map, dome, courtesy and trunk lights with LED equivalents. I want a red dome light that is bright enough to illuminate the cabin and I'm having issues finding a good one. DE3175 is the LED equivalent. Any recommendations?

 

2.) I went to replace my courtesy bulbs and found them both intact but don't work. When are these supposed to turn on? I assume it's when the door is open, but I've never seen them work. And what would cause them not to work? Do they have their own fuse?

 

3.) I wan't to install a system that will allow me to unlock my car via remote/Bluetooth and will turn on my dome light when doing so. I've read a little bit about Viper's security and key-less entry systems. Any recommendations here? And how difficult are these systems to install? I'm not shy to try something new, but if it's far above my skill level I might wait to get a professional to install it.

[Osei]

Turbo idea sounds good.

Also in my project plans. In my case I can do turbo, but not one that shows up on the registration!

Can only help with number 2. The switches in the door jambs are malfunctioning. Try a little WD first.

 

O.

[twisty]

1.) I'm trying to replace my map, dome, courtesy and trunk lights with LED equivalents. I want a red dome light that is bright enough to illuminate the cabin and I'm having issues finding a good one. DE3175 is the LED equivalent. Any recommendations?

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/de3175-led-bulb-4-led-festoon-30mm-car/231/1081/#/tab/Specifications

 

this could work. unfortunately, it looks like red is the dimmest of the colors for LEDs. mebbe get a white and put a red filter on it? for just a couple bucks, id try it and see how it looks. im getting the green ones for my wagon.

[jp71ss]

Wish I could find a turbo deal like that! This isn't subie country like it is there.

[Succulent Bass]

Wish I could find a turbo deal like that! This isn't subie country like it is there.

 

Yeah I was stoked when I found it on CL. Arizona is a great place to own a Subie

 

Update:

I bought a VF39 last week as well as a Cobb cat-less up pipe and Perrin CAI. I've been searching for replacement parts to sort of upgrade my build as I move forward. I got all of those from a guy for relatively cheap, and the turbocharger came straight out of his 06' Sti. After I sell my WRX down pipe and my TD04 it really won't be that much cost-wise. I'm keeping track of all of my transactions in a spreadsheet so in the end I will know exactly what everything has cost me.

 

I also found out that the crossover pipe that was given to me is actually a Grimmspeed crossover pipe. I've searched and can't find anyone else who makes one (even an EBay knock-off), so I'm pretty sure it's the real deal. It says Grimmspeed on the box but doesn't have the badge that I see in the pictures on their website. I'm going to port the stock WRX manifold to match the crossover pipe, smooth it out on the inside, and then take it to one of the contacts from my old workplace to have him ceramic coat the entire thing. Hopefully that paired with the Cobb up pipe will grant a lower spool time so my VF39 will do work all across the RPM range.

 

I have been out of work for a little over 2 months now which has been ridiculous. I have been selling stuff that I've wanted to get rid of for a while but it has been tough to stay afloat. Good news though, after Christmas I'll be getting a job starting at around $14-16/hr so I should be able to move forward with my engine build relatively quickly. I'm starting back in college the third week of January, but I will still be working 40+ hours per week so I will have money to start dumping into the Lego once again (like I haven't spent enough already).

[Succulent Bass]

Update: After a lot of discussion with a Phase 1 engine builder (favors EJ22's) and a local tuner, I came up with a final plan and have begun carrying it out.

 

Engine Management: Greddy Emanage Ultimate

Longblock: EJ20K (WRX)

Turbocharger: VF39

Others:

-06' STI TMIC

-EJ205 exhaust manifolds

-Grimmspeed Crossover Pipe

 

I already have the Emanage, the EJ20K will be here tomorrow along with a crossmember from a GG chassis (WRX Wagon) and an 04/05 STI hood scoop. I'm looking at having it in by May, not because I can't do it sooner but I want to take my time and make sure everything is ready to go. I'm also looking at getting another Legacy to daily so I can make my Lego more track-oriented without having to worry about getting to work if I break something. I want either a 2nd Gen wagon that I can swap an EG33 in, a 2004-2009 Outback with an EZ30D, or a 2008-2009 Legacy 3.0R. So far I haven't found anything but I'm watching CL like its my job, so hopefully something will turn up locally.

 

I actually got the chance to take her out to Chuckwalla Valley Raceway last weekend for a NASA HPDE. It was my first one so I learned quite a bit and was unprepared for a few things. The car handled well, I actually got a solid AWD drift out of turn 6 at about 45 mph which was pretty fun. I drove it there, tracked it, blew a tire, strapped a used slick on and drove back. Beyond the blown tire it was a really good time. Everyone was nice and extremely helpful, and when I needed a tire everyone seemed to be more than willing to help. I'm really looking forward to going to the next HPDE at Wild Horse Pass, and I will be going to every one I can from now on.

 

Once I get everything moving forward I will be posting more often, I've just been busy with my new job. Oh, I almost forgot. I bought and installed the JDM tail lights.

[Osei]

Good to here things are going well.

Enjoy

 

O.

[twisty]

I'm really looking forward to going to the next HPDE at Wild Horse Pass, and I will be going to every one I can from now on.

 

i didnt know they were doing them out there, i guess i need to start paying attention to it

[Succulent Bass]

A lot has happened in the last 2 months.

 

I went to the HPDE @ WHP East Track and that was a lot of fun. They say that track is really hard on brakes and well, they're right. My pads got so hot that other DE2 drivers could smell them from behind me. The Lego performed okay, but it has a lot of room for improvement. Some beefy swaybars, wider wheels and good tires would make a huge difference on the track. I can't carry almost any speed through corners as-is.

 

I also went to Import Face Off @ WHP and tried out bracket racing. The best time I got for the day was a 15.787 @ 85.16 MPH which isn't too bad. It's not really impressive, but I wasn't the slowest car there lol

 

The build. About 3 weeks ago I tore into the EJ20K and stripped it down to just the heads and block. When I took the oil pan off I messed with the connecting rods and found that they had lateral play along the crank. So the bearings are junk which is very common with 20K's. Also, I finally found someone who has a set of complete EJ20K (STI variant) cylinder heads and I bought them from him.

 

With those 2 occurrences my build has changed slightly. Since I have to rebuild a block I figured I might as well rebuild the 22E that I have laying around to get some extra displacement. I want to create a high revving 2.2L that makes most of its power between 5K and 8K RPM. The 20K heads have the 2nd most aggressive cam profiles of the Phase 1 engines, capable of making power close to and above 8K RPM. With forged rods and pistons the 22E bottom end will have no problems revving close to 9K so I will have some head room.

 

Now, most people criticize my desire to rev this high because most people favor a 2.5L that revs to 7K if they are running a stock block. And on 99% of EJ builds they would be right. Most EJ cams, even aftermarket, are designed to make a lot of power in the midrange and not so much up top. When people build there shortblock they build a 2.5 because it will make more power than a 2.0 or 2.2, that just makes sense. But the 2.5L blocks, cranks, and pistons have some crappy physics that I am trying to avoid. They have a longer throw, causing increased stress on the pistons and rods. The pistons are larger and heavier, along with a heavier crank they both create heat faster and have a harder time dispersing it. Larger pistons means a larger surface area to oil, which is already an issue for EJ's in general. 2.5's should not be revved higher than 7K because of the excessive vibrations they create above 4800 RPM. This causes a very torquey engine with a beefy midrange, as the equation for torque/horsepower shows that you make more horsepower than torque only above 5,252 RPM. That's why Chevy V8's make almost the same TQ/HP numbers, and why Honda's typically make 30-40% more HP than TQ. The higher the RPM the higher the potential for HP while typically losing out on some torque. So with these ideas in mind I should be creating a somewhat unique EJ.

 

The biggest unknown right now is what turbo I should use. I've been reading about turbo selection and there doesn't seem like a very clean cut way to determine what CFM you should shoot for at a desired PSI. I was going to use a VF39 on a 2.0L revving to 7500 RPM tops. I picked up a VF48 (basically the same) for pretty cheap and I planned on using that one as it has a larger wastegate, but now I'm selling both of them and looking for something bigger. Either of those would die out completely above 7K and would get extremely inefficient if I tried to push any boost out of them beyond that. So at this point I'm looking for a large 16G, a 20G or something in that range. They won't make usable boost until around 5K RPM but when they do... sweet Jesus. I'm aiming for around 375 WHP, or more if I get the block sleeved or the deck closed. I am very aware of what 375 WHP will do to the stock 5MT and the rest of the drive train. I'm confident that I am a good enough driver to prevent any catastrophic failure, but I am going to buy an extra 5MT just in case. I will probably be running it on almost no boost until I can get a 6 speed swap together. I'm sure even 200 WHP will be more fun than I need while driving to work.

 

Another major change is the Greddy E-manage Ultimate. I was dead set on this piggyback until I talked to a trusted tuner in Australia, who informed me that they suffer from "timing drift." Basically a phenomenon where the total timing can vary as much as 5 degrees in either direction.... not good. So he is currently talking with Link to find a suitable standalone unit for my Lego. I didn't want to go this route initially but the unit he is selling me seems like a very good unit. He uses them on everything from 1000+ HP Skyline GT-R's to LS1 swapped 350z's. So hopefully something good will come from that.

[Succulent Bass]

Here are a few more pics. These were taken with my IPhone or a digital camera, so they aren't the greatest but it'll do for now. I did a interview for my buddy's automotive journal last weekend so they are supposed to have a video in the next month that should be pretty interesting.

[Osei]

More power to you! Good to hear of your intentions and progress.

Indeed tires and brakes are paramount for greater cornering etc.

If you do a track day again, just take some racing pads with you and change them on site and perhaps another set of front rotors, JIC.

Continue having fun.

 

O.

[twisty]

i missed the import USA, couple of my kids were there tho and i heard it was a good one. cool stuff with your build, good luck!

 

i kinda like the green hood thing, hehe. i havent painted the black one yet either...

[Succulent Bass]

Twisty I miss that black hood. It looks so much more aggressive.

 

I just installed a Weapon R intake off my 95' wagon and I love the sound it makes. I replaced all the vacuum lines I could see and ended up doing the Big 3 mod which made a huge difference actually. I wouldn't say it makes any more power, but it definitely drives a lot better. I've had quite a few issues with this car as far as drive ability goes on the factory tune and it seemed to slap a bandaid on it for now. It's probably just a collection of tired sensors and a tired engine, but it's still moving at 191,000 miles so I'm happy.

 

I picked up a Phase 2 EJ22 with JE forged pistons, Manley rods and King racing bearings for $500. It has 20k on it and some scoring in the dish on 2 pistons from valves kissing it but it is a brand new block. The guy gave me the receipt from the builder and sent me the link to the thread on NASIOC where the builder lists out all the info.

 

I want to do a full update again but I think I'll wait until I'm moving forward again... Kind of had some issues with employment for various reasons and I'm a little in debt right now but I'll get out of it in a month or so.

[twisty]

Twisty I miss that black hood. It looks so much more aggressive.

 

 

ya, me too...

 

http://i64.tinypic.com/9kxo3d.jpg

 

a friend was driving it at the time, Hanks fate is still unknown. the hood may be able to be straightened, im not sure yet. either way, the front is pretty well toasted on that car now