Succulent Bass Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Hello everyone, this is my first post but I have been reading information from here for months now. I bought my first Subaru and first Legacy a few months back and have been doing nothing but working on it since. Maintenance that was way overdue, aesthetic mods and a "performance" mod or two have kept me busy since the day I bought it. I just wanted to document my progress on a post to get some feedback for further mods. 1997 Subaru Legacy GT Limited (BD6), Black Granite Metallic. Previous Owner Claims: --Rebuilt Engine with only 3,000 miles (I have receipt, $1700) --OEM Subaru oil pump --OEM Subaru water pump --OEM timing belt kit --NGK plugs and wires --K&N drop in filter (lie) --New Exedy Clutch --New clutch slave cylinder (makes a lot of noise with clutch in) --New CV axles front and rear --New rack and pinion --New OEM hoses, seals and gaskets (lie) --Subaru shift linkage --All fluids replaced (Redline gear oil, Rotella engine oil with Subaru filter) --All new Infinity door speakers (lie) --Aftermarket CD player (not included, I had to buy a stereo and wire it in) --STI springs and struts (COMPLETELY shot, and they were for a WRX if it makes a difference) --ACT light flywheel --Tubular headers (see below) --Torque Solutions motor mount --Torque Solutions Rear Differential Mounts --Torque Solutions Rear Subframe Mounts Here is what I have done so far: --Transmission rebuild (main shaft bearings, main shaft, pilot bearing, no synchros/gearset) --Replaced Ebay Headers with OEM sourced from another Legacy (rear cat was rusted out, and I didn't like how the headers rubbed my front sway bar) --New steering rack (mine apparently blew apart on the housing somewhere and I lost my power steering after only 3 days of ownership) --New Lower Control Arm bushings in the front --New solid transmission mount (previous owner tried to RTV the original back together, which was both hilarious and stupid) --The rear half shafts apparently weren't correctly installed --D2 Racing Coilovers (05 WRX) --Kumho Ecsta ASX 225 50R16 Tires --Snorkus delete, K&N air filter --JDM Projector Headlights (previous owner thought HID's were cool, but in reality they looked blue and he left a pile of wiring that looked like trash) --Version 7 STI Rear Seats, still looking to replace the Version 6 WRX fronts to match --Removed LGT spoiler and rear bumper lip --Alpine Stereo --Custom exhaust system, 2.25" piping from rear cat all the way back (no resonator or muffler) --Currently making a custom mesh grill --Fully debadged minus the "Limited" on the driver door --Got alignment done: 0 thrust angle, 0 toe, 0 canter, -2.5 degrees camber in front, need to get camber kit to adjust rear (I think I have a bit of positive in the rear) Here is what I want to do (as of right now): --Finish Grill --Install cloth door panels (already purchased) --JDM Projector foglights? --JDM BD5 tail lights --Cut rear bumper to expose rear tires --Custom rear diffuser --Custom front splitter --Custom lip style spoiler --Legacy L hood (lighter), or fit a reverse hood scoop from a WRX --Fender flares in the style of Giro Disc's sexy LGT --18" wheels, around 9.5" wide with some sticky tires --Whiteline front and rear swaybars --Whiteline bushings --6 Speed swap --EG33 swap, but the more I read the less this sounds appealing (emissions) --Instrument cluster mod (coming soon) --Upgraded rotors and pads (not thoroughly researched yet) I'm sure I am missing a few things, but I have a lot of pictures of the progression so far. I can't seem to post any pictures, something about missing a security token. I'll figure it out and post some pics as soon as I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Good work, looking for pics. I can only offer info on the rotor and brake swap. If you want the largest possible for the std hub pattern. Then Legacy GT calipers from 05 up front and rear. they accommodate 12.4 vented front and 11.4 vented rear. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Here are some pics. I uploaded almost everything I have in my albums, but these are better quality. It wasn't letting me post these last night because they were all 3248x2432 or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Good work, looking for pics. I can only offer info on the rotor and brake swap. If you want the largest possible for the std hub pattern. Then Legacy GT calipers from 05 up front and rear. they accommodate 12.4 vented front and 11.4 vented rear. O. Would it be better to get bigger rotors with matched calipers, or get better quality rotors and calipers with the original size? I have read about the H6 rear rotor swap and I was planning on doing that at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 All depends on what you want to spend now. Better pads (akebono, Hawk, etc ) would be good until you decide. At our hp levels, this should suffice. If you want the max in stopping power, then upgrade. The H6 upgrade takes you to 11.4F/11.3R. The 05+ GT takes you to 12.3F and 11.3 Vented R. Unless you just want bling,slots won't add anything. Stay away from drilled. More info in the brake forum. You will need the calipers and brackets to accommodate the larger rotors. For better pedal feel, SS brake lines. If you drive and corner hard, replace your brake fluid with better stuff. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Wow. Well apparently cross drilled and slotted rotors are only for looks. I had no idea until now. I googled it and found this link (http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/why-blank-rotors-better-than-cross-drilled-slotted-1437513/) which turned out to be a decent read. Anyways, is there a good write up of the swap that you know of? For the 05+ GT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 The swap is the same for either. Remove caliper, unbolt bracket and reverse with whatever you wish to install. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 greetings to another AZ guy! car looks good. id offer to trade you my L hood, but my daughter recently redesigned the front of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Okay sounds good. I was going to do the brakes after I got a new wheel and tire setup due to the brakes being limited by traction, but that wouldn't cost too much so I think I'll probably be doing that next month then. And greetings twisty, that would be awesome but I assume "redesigned" is a nice way of saying "found a pole." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 not a pole, but a lexus. it isnt really all that bad, the hood got the least amount of damage. just curled it under a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 Well that's not too bad. I'm not really sure what I want to do as far as hoods go now, I was thinking about doing an EG33 swap and in that case the lighter hood would be perfect, but I have been considering buying an EJ207 from a dealer on Ebay and swapping that in. Then I could run a TMIC and just replace the useless scoop with an STI or aftermarket one. But I'm currently in the process of getting a new job and I'm a little worried about money so that doesn't seem like a realistic plan right now. Other than that I have been searching around locally and found a gen 1 Legacy turbo (EJ22T) that would be good for a build. Basically an EJ22G with shitty single port heads on it. This past week I've been working on my grill trying to get it smoothed out as well as addressing a few other issues I've been dealing with. The positive battery cable end has been broken since I bought it, so I replaced that and cleaned the battery, both ends and the ground wire to the chassis. Didn't make any difference but it definitely looks better. I would post pics but I'll probably just post them all when I am done. I am almost ready for paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 ah sounds like fun. id love to do a swap in one of mine, eventually ill put a ez36 into my L wagon and probably a wrx/sti (havent decided on which, 205 or 255/7 yet) swap for the outback. the 2.2l in that sucker has troubles with big hills when its loaded down. i gave up looking for decent builders here, people always wanted too much for their stuff. mebbe im just too cheap, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 I've really been wanting to crank some work out on my car the last few weeks but I have had a few things setting me back. My instrument cluster got messed up and I had to replace it, but the new one isn't working properly. And in the process of trying to correct the bucking issue I am having I ended up replacing the TPS without a way of setting the replacement correctly, so I have been stuck in limp mode for a few days... But that is getting fixed tomorrow, and I will possibly be looking into getting a cheap turbo setup soon. Basically a stock EJ205 setup with a Vortech 8:1 FMU can be setup with ease for about $600, and apparently is pretty reliable up to about 8 PSI. I have heard a lot of issues with N/A-T builds but recently I have come across a variety of different build threads that show a reasonable amount of reliability with a good power increase. You can't really beat 60-80+ HP for $600. There is a guy a few miles from me selling the TD04, up pipe, down pipe, exhaust manifold, TMIC, bypass valve, and a WRX hood scoop, and a few other things for $300. All I would need is a couple lines for the turbo and the FMU and I could have it setup in a day or so. And honestly, if I end up blowing something up 10K miles down the road it won't be a big deal. It just means I'll get to spend more time learning about my Lego Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Wow. Well apparently cross drilled and slotted rotors are only for looks. I had no idea until now. I googled it and found this link (http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/why-blank-rotors-better-than-cross-drilled-slotted-1437513/) which turned out to be a decent read. Anyways, is there a good write up of the swap that you know of? For the 05+ GT? this is a great article but is all non-sense, from someone who has only researched drilled and slotted. i actually own a set drove over 40,000 miles on them last year, driving over loveland, vail, and independence passes and countless canyons. nothing like an Arizona dessert im sure. im talking descents of 20 to 40 miles and they do make a difference. im sure it depends on the the set up, i do have ceramic pads with the drilled and slots. according to the f1 statement in the article how many of them drive in the snow/mud/dirt? ive had many small rocks (as in tiny stupid rocks) in my brakes that cause them to grind and make all sorts of noise during braking. never has this happened with drilled and slots. most hondas never see dirt nither do f1s. i am for drilled and slots, the company that makes mine actually have a lifetime warranty if one does crack they replace all 4. hows that for crazieness. it was cheaper than used resurfaced breaks and pads from brakes plus too. i would not talk about things only on paper until you try them on the road its just a waste of time. real world applications are more important than whats on paper and if you never plan to see mud/snow/dirt by all means stay blank. i have forester springs and struts on my lego with that LSD in the rear. mud is fun. just thought i would give my opinion on how they have been for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 ive changed out a few drilled and slotted for solid vented rotors here in AZ, customers were annoyed with going through pads in 1/4 the time they were before they put them on. anecdotal, but my 2 centavos. one of the kids i know that drifts uses the slotted ones with high end pads and after a solid run at the track ive checked the temps on his rotors and hubs to see if i could find some info on differences and such. after a full run he was running about as hot as my subaru does after driving home from work in traffic. usually right around 180 deg or so. the track runners were up over 220 when they just came off the track that i checked, but i would expect that. given all the checks ive done with all the different set ups, i just run stock rotors and decent pads. if i ever track a car, ill probably go slotted and high end pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 It wasn't saying that drilled/slotted rotors aren't better in some way, it was saying that the lack of surface area making contact due to the slots or holes isn't going to improve your capability of stopping just because it is colder. While a 40 degree difference may seem like a lot, when you convert that to Kelvin (the only absolute measurement) the difference is only a 6.25% increase in overall energy. So is it worth losing all the contact from pad to rotor just to run 94% of the temp? That's your call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 It wasn't saying that drilled/slotted rotors aren't better in some way, it was saying that the lack of surface area making contact due to the slots or holes isn't going to improve your capability of stopping just because it is colder. While a 40 degree difference may seem like a lot, when you convert that to Kelvin (the only absolute measurement) the difference is only a 6.25% increase in overall energy. So is it worth losing all the contact from pad to rotor just to run 94% of the temp? That's your call. i was actually agreeing with you, i dont run them because they didnt give that much of a benefit for the loss of braking area. you gain more putting GT brakes on a L model than you do from a bit of cooling, imo. but the reason i posted about the change outs was because i saw a lot of the ebay ones chewing up pads very quickly. like cheese grater quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I ran slotted on my 07 I, but I attributed the better braking to 1)16'Blizzak in cold weather and 17" Bridgestone KDW in Summer. 2)Rotors from an 04 GT in the rear (11.3 vs 10.6 stock) 3)Hawk hps pads 4)Super Blue Brake Fluid to minimize heat fade, I bought slots only for the bling factor and I don't know of anyone who has gotten slots and/drilled w/o changing something else. Scientifically you can't change two variables at once and then state the gain/loss is due to one alone. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 usually i dont change 2 things at once if im looking to attribute changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 There were definitely a lot of variables that I didn't take into consideration but assuming the rotors were the only things changed and there was that difference in temperature it would not be that significant. twisty: I wasn't saying that to you, that was in reaction to Rustyruu's comment about it being nonsense. My point wasn't that he was wrong either, I was just saying that it is up to the user whether they want cooler rotors or rotors with more stopping power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 just trying to say dont believe everything you read. what do you think you will do when you want to change them. i liked twisty's idea of the 05lgt front and rear calipers and rotors you get bigger brakes and vented rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Yeah I will definitely go with the larger 05' LGT brakes on all 4 corners, I like the idea of it still maintaining a kind of OEM quality to it. For an update, I finished my grill last week just in time for a weekend trip to California. It turned out pretty much how I wanted it to, it isn't perfect but neither am I so it's okay. While I was in Cali the throttle cable that adjusts the idle came loose and my car started idling really high (it somehow tightened itself) but I stopped and readjusted it to where I felt was normal. Other than that the Lego did great! I drove over 900 miles in 2 days, averaging 85 mph on the long stretches and it was a lot of fun. I got to cruise from San Bernardino to Los Angeles to Long Beach to Seal Beach to Laguna Beach to Dana Point and lastly to San Diego before I headed back home. On another note, on the way back from Cali I got a CEL which turned out to be P0303 and P0304 codes which are misfires on cylinders 3 and 4. It actually went away the next morning when I went to move my car, but it came back on last night when I was cruising down the 101. So I've already compiled a list of things to do to hopefully solve this issue, but I will probably be taking it down to Subiworx tomorrow to see if they can check my throttle cables and TPS again. I'm thinking spark plugs, plug wires, coil, fuel filter, PCV, compression test and check the seals on my injectors. I already bought NGK V-Powers, I'm not sure if anyone has had any issues with them but I know that all Honda's love them. I used them on my old s2000 and literally everyone suggested them over anything else, so I didn't think they were a bad option. Especially when OEM is like $12 each. And anyone have any opinions on the MSD 8239? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Pics of my grill and a few from California. I need to get a better shot of the grill, but my car is still filthy and there is never a good lighting situation in my driveway so this will have to do for now. Let me know what you all think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succulent Bass Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 twisty: I found the MSD 8239 on Amazon with Prime shipping as well as NGK 7600 spark plug wires for a 97' Impreza, just wanted to double check if that is the setup you are running on your wagon. And your opinion on whether the OEM plugs (PFR5B-11??) would be worth getting over the V-Powers (BKR5E-ll). After reading up on some of people's experience with changing plugs, it seems like the EJ's seem to like their OEM plugs quite a lot but I don't want to spend an extra $40 if I don't have to. I'm currently unemployed, so I'm trying to work within my budget which is seemingly difficult to do when it comes to my Lego. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Std copper plugs are fine for these EJ's, no need for high price plugs. Just change them at 30K. Grill looks nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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