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Dealing with a dealership swindle..


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I got a 06 the turbo blew, so my mechanic put a new one in. that one blew on me too just two days ago..

 

i bought the car with a lot of aftermarket parts, i know it could be a powerful beauty.. i know this car has potential. Do you think the person before this car was sold to me had a bad tune and its producing too much boost? and if so could i just put another one in and get the right dyno to it?

 

 

could anyone help suggest anything for me, i lova da subie

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yea take the car to a reputable shop and have leakdown and compression tests done... 2 blown turbos likely means there is damage to the engine. Do you have any records from the previous owner as to whats been done to the car? who did the tuning and what was used for tuning? more details on your setup would also be helpful to figure out whats wrong with your car. Best of luck otherwise!

03 WRB WRX (RIP)

04 JBP STI (sold)

07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP)

12 OBP STI (DD)

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Unfortunate news about the two blown turbos that you've had to deal with and I'm sure very frustrating.

 

There are a number of things that could have resulted in turbo failure - oil starvation, poor tune, etc. Without additional information its hard to tell you for sure.

 

You titled the thread that the dealership swindled you, but did the dealership actually swindle you or did the car fail due to the aftermarket parts or the tune on it from the previous owner that were already installed? If the latter, I think that's a failure on your part for not putting forth the due diligence in doing the proper research about the vehicle or failing to take accountability of your decision to purchase a car with aftermarket parts.

 

If the dealership was upfront with you with the parts that were installed, I wouldn't necessarily say that they swindled you.

 

If they sold it and knowingly hid mechanical issues from you, that would be swindling.

 

I think you need to do a bit of reading on this site and understand some of the common issues that might result in turbo failure. There are a number of threads on this topic. Here are two to start you off.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my05-09-legacy-gt-common-issues-230230.html

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

 

 

Buying a performance car is a risk that at some point you might encounter an engine failure. Knowingly buying a car/or equipping it with aftermarket parts is a greater risk to the life of the motor. As they say... "You've got to pay to play"

 

You are in the DMV (DC, Maryland, VA) area? If so, where did you take the car?

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

 

The safest way to do this is to rebuild or replace the short block and have the heads rebuilt replace the oil cooler and oil pump. Have the machine shop hot tank all the internal parts of the engine that see oil.

 

Have the car tuned for the new turbo.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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You are in the DMV (DC, Maryland, VA) area? If so, where did you take the car?

 

Since he has the V identified, I'm hoping not that dealer in Springfield near what I am told is no longer Springfield Mall. Truthfully the best DMV dealer is in Cherry Hill, NJ near SoA.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

 

The safest way to do this is to rebuild or replace the short block and have the heads rebuilt replace the oil cooler and oil pump. Have the machine shop hot tank all the internal parts of the engine that see oil.

 

Have the car tuned for the new turbo.

 

Being an 06 delete bango filters as well.

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I guessing no, unless you have the funds to connect it to your ECU.

 

See post #5 above. Do it right the first time...or in your case the third time.

 

It's not like we don't know what we're talking about.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I guessing no, unless you have the funds to connect it to your ECU.

 

See post #5 above. Do it right the first time...or in your case the third time.

 

It's not like we don't know what we're talking about.

 

nah i trust you guys 100% my bad for not correctly responding, im going to order my new turbo today and bring it to a different shop like ptuning or something.

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Unfortunate news about the two blown turbos that you've had to deal with and I'm sure very frustrating.

 

There are a number of things that could have resulted in turbo failure - oil starvation, poor tune, etc. Without additional information its hard to tell you for sure.

 

You titled the thread that the dealership swindled you, but did the dealership actually swindle you or did the car fail due to the aftermarket parts or the tune on it from the previous owner that were already installed? If the latter, I think that's a failure on your part for not putting forth the due diligence in doing the proper research about the vehicle or failing to take accountability of your decision to purchase a car with aftermarket parts.

 

i feel as if the dealership swindled me because im under their 90 day warranty and after 30 days all these problems had happened and i tried to take it back to just get my down payment back. The owner or boss of the dealership said i cant return it because i already bought it as is.

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

 

The safest way to do this is to rebuild or replace the short block and have the heads rebuilt replace the oil cooler and oil pump. Have the machine shop hot tank all the internal parts of the engine that see oil.

 

Have the car tuned for the new turbo.

 

while i do this you think i should get one of these ?

 

http://www.ptuning.com/subdir/itemdetail.cfm?PartNo=PT078016B&MakeCode=subaru&ModelCode=legacy&ModelYear=2005-2009%20GT&ModelDesc=Legacy

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I have one like that on my wagon, not sure its really necessary on the street car unless your running lots of HP.

 

I'll PM you link.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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A new turbo alone likely won't fix your issues.

 

Your engine likely has shards/chunks/flakes/fragments/etc of metal in the oil and those fragments are all over the engine... in the heads, block, turbo, oil cooler, OCVs... everything will need torn apart and inspected and cleaned at the very least, and most of it will likely need replaced.

 

Don't get the Grimmspeed AOS... they don't work well and often times, lead to more oil burning. There are several people here with fairly negative reviews of it.

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A new turbo alone likely won't fix your issues.

 

Your engine likely has shards/chunks/flakes/fragments/etc of metal in the oil and those fragments are all over the engine... in the heads, block, turbo, oil cooler, OCVs... everything will need torn apart and inspected and cleaned at the very least, and most of it will likely need replaced.

 

Don't get the Grimmspeed AOS... they don't work well and often times, lead to more oil burning. There are several people here with fairly negative reviews of it.

 

^This. Your oil is contaminated, putting a new turbo in is like knowingly transmitting aids to it. That's how most of us came from the off topic section into the main forum for help rebuilding from our mistakes. My years here vs post count don't match because I posted mostly in areas the post count don't count until I blew of a turbo and then the engine while contaminating another pretty much brand new turbo.

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i feel as if the dealership swindled me because im under their 90 day warranty and after 30 days all these problems had happened and i tried to take it back to just get my down payment back. The owner or boss of the dealership said i cant return it because i already bought it as is.

 

It may be one of those warranties that only apply to certain cars/newer ones. Being an almost 10 year old car you're likely in the "as-is" category like I was. I was unlucky enough to only have my clutch/throwout bearing go on me at about 30 days. Definitely follow the threads people are saying and check for metal. If you've got that your new car just got a bit more expensive for sure.

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i feel as if the dealership swindled me because im under their 90 day warranty and after 30 days all these problems had happened and i tried to take it back to just get my down payment back. The owner or boss of the dealership said i cant return it because i already bought it as is.

 

Read the fine print. 90 day's and as is don't go together

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Read the fine print. 90 day's and as is don't go together

 

i feel you bro , i had knew someone that worked at the dealership thats the only reason why i went there. After i signed the papers he told me "if anything goes wrong you can just bring it back before 90 days are up and i'll get my money back"

 

When the boss was there it was a different story, i never was told about a "as is"

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1000% do/get a compression test done, minimum. Leakdown, too. If all alse fails, you can get a decent rig to do a compression test, yourself, for $<75, and it isn't difficult. I would be very curious to see the warranty paperwork. Most places will offer a similar powertrain warrantly, and #YNANSB would definitely qualify.
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