Mr. Sinister Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Hello all, I've been trying to track down an intermittent tap/knocking sound when going straight or while turning left. After pulling the pads off, I noticed that there wasn't much clearance, maybe ~1 mm, between the rotor and the caliper bracket. However, if I spin the rotor 180 degrees, then the clearance would increase to ~3 mm. Any ideas what would cause this? Bad bearing? It's not making the typical bad bearing noises though. The dealer replaced the control arm bushings a few months back. Could something have gotten bent? Edit: I attached two pictures of the problem. One shows the low clearance where I can't fit a screwdriver in between the bracket and the rotor. The other shows the rotor rotated and I can fit the screwdriver tip in between. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBad Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Are you sure your rotor is fully seated when rotating it to check for clearance with caliper, pads and tire off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sinister Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 As far as I could tell, yes. There was no movement of the rotor (off the hub) that I noticed after taking the wheel off. Edit: Now you've got me second guessing myself. I'm going to pull the wheel back off tomorrow to see if what you suggested is indeed the "issue". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sinister Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Ok, I'm a dumbass. Took the wheel off and with the caliper and pads in place, everything was squared like it's supposed to be. I had to pry the inside pad off the bracket when I took it off the other day and must have unseated the rotor, which is odd. I usually have to hammer them off the hub. At least I only looked like an idiot on here and didn't have to take a few hours off of work only to look like an idiot at the dealer. Thanks for your help BigBad. The hunt for the noise continues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBad Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Glad to help. Good luck with tracking down the source of your noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 You are suppose to use the threaded holes in the hat area of the rotor to remove it from the hub. Use two 8mm x 1.25 bolts with PB Blaster and anti-seize compound on the threads to walk them off the hub. Works every time. Spray the hub are with a small amount of PB too. Make sure the mating surface of the rotor and hub are clean and free of rust particles 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sinister Posted July 12, 2015 Author Share Posted July 12, 2015 Thanks Max, but the problem wasn't trying to free the rotor. It was already loose as BigBad suggested and that's what caused the "issue" of a cocked rotor. With the caliper and pads back on everything lined up correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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