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Oil feed issue = smoked turbo, valve slap ??


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Hey. I've had an unfortunate incident recently. I think there may have been an oil feed blockage to the passenger side head and turbo. As a result my turbo is likely seized and I've got something that sounds like valve slap on that side. The turbo is a BNR 16G remanuf, about 55k on it now.

 

I took the timing cover off to check the belt tension cam sprocket alignment and it appears that the passenger side intake cam sprocket (the one with the VVT/OCV) is off clockwise by 1 tooth or so. The engine does run, just with the clickity clank noises.

 

QUESTION: Is it possible for a cam sprocket to jump a tooth with a tight belt and that corner bracket from some temporary oil issue when it is rolling fine right now? If I'm wrong and its not off by a tooth.. what else may have happened? Can I bump that sprocket back without taking the pulleys off just to get that center cover off?

 

AHHH! Thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes the head can be removed without pulling the engine.

 

The benefit of pulling the engine is, its much easier to work on the heads that way, as well as installing the head or heads back on the block. If your going to be removing the head, make sure you use new head bolts going back together.

 

We also recommend ARP head studs, but the block will have to be removed to install them.

 

I know there can be issues with torqueing the head back on the block in the car. If the head bolt strips out the threads the block has to come out anyways.

 

IMO do it tight the first time. Remove the engine from the car. If you have a engine hoist and tools, think about what's the minimum you need to disconnect, its really not that hard. You can see pictures in my click here link of how I removed mine.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Really.. wow.. which page is that on? That would blow my current theory. Either way its got to come apart I suppose and the root cause might still be tough to determine. Thanks for the comments guys. I never did end up writing up my engine build 5 years ago and I didn't really take notes during the process like I should have. I'd really like to avoid removing the entire block if I can, I've got to decide soon.
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FWIW don't waste time making sure the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the pulley. The belt doesn't care how it goes on. The belt is made so it rotates and hits a different cog every time it goes around. So it doesn't wear in the same spot.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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That's interesting and pretty cool. I'm sure hose marks are worn off, I only checked the pulley and timing cover marks.

 

BTW, was it ok to remove crank pully with bolt with impact air gun? I don't believe I used one last time but I don't have the special holder wrench either.

 

Also.. anyone with a BNR turbo, how long has it lasted?

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That's interesting and pretty cool. I'm sure hose marks are worn off, I only checked the pulley and timing cover marks.

 

BTW, was it ok to remove crank pully with bolt with impact air gun? I don't believe I used one last time but I don't have the special holder wrench either.

 

Also.. anyone with a BNR turbo, how long has it lasted?

 

my BNR 16g has over 30k on her just started using oil, shes getting swapped out for 1.5xtr

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