compsurge Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 You won't need a torque wrench for the brakes. You might want to torque lug nuts to spec, but I've always done it by feel. Be sure to use the impact to remove lug nuts when the wheel is in the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Didnt plan on using the impact for the brakes, but (as this is the first time im ever owning and impact gun) it makes taking the wheels on and off SO much faster Well worth the money, new Craftsman C3 1/2in is GREAT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Save your back. Use the impact wherever practical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 I plan on it. Anywhere (not just the brakes but on the whole car) that I specifically shouldnt used the impact gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Engine parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Any in specific or just anything in the engine bay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Also as everything is difficult with this car nothing is difficult with this car. My LGT makes working on my Acura (Honda) seem like a nightmare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Tool and socket wise im good, and have a new impact for the wheel lugs. Is there really a need for a torque wrench for the lugs? I just usually go as tight as possible. Cant I just use the old pad instead of wood to compress the pistons with the C clamp? Also cant I just pull the top bolts so that the caliper hangs down like a clam shell? I was talking about bleeding for the future. Also im fine with spending $15 on a torque wrench, its more of a time and availability problem at this moment. When I do "as tight as possible" its well north of 250 ftlbs...the lug nuts should be 85-90 ftlbs. Use a torque wrench. Didnt plan on using the impact for the brakes, but (as this is the first time im ever owning and impact gun) it makes taking the wheels on and off SO much faster Well worth the money, new Craftsman C3 1/2in is GREAT. Don't be a monkey. Get a set of Torque bars - $55 from HF. I use them on the race car all the time. We put the 90lb bar on the impact gun and leave it on all weekend. Wheel nutz go on/off like cake. Brake caliper torque specs are here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-caliper-bolt-torque-specs-186205.html Caliper to bracket - 19.9 ft-lbs Bracket to spindle - 88.5 ft-lb Banjo bolt for brake line to caliper - 13 ft-lb Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I plan on it. Anywhere (not just the brakes but on the whole car) that I specifically shouldnt used the impact gun? Look up the saga that is "Hicksta". He was legendary for busting nuts/bolts. Leading to the concept "to Hicksta" whereby using a tool to over-tighten a part and shearing off the nut or bolt. In particular, doing it to the one part that was either expensive and/or difficult to replace. That's what a 1/2inch impact gun will do for you. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Okay, will keep that in mind. I get there are certain things I shouldn't tighten using the impact, but anything I should not loosen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Okay, will keep that in mind. I get there are certain things I shouldn't tighten using the impact, but anything I should not loosen? You're like a redneck with a hammer with that gun. PB Blaster will make it easier to get things apart. The impact gun will make it easier to get things apart. PB Blaster has the added benefit of not shearing bolts in the process. Note the torque numbers for the caliper to bracket are 20lbs, not 300lbs. There will be times when your new impact is not enough, too. Crank pulley bolt, and some other fun stuff. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Where are you located? Just come over and I'll hold a brake job 101 class. You just supply pizza/beer. Okay, will keep that in mind. I get there are certain things I shouldn't tighten using the impact, but anything I should not loosen? [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Where are you located? Just come over and I'll hold a brake job 101 class. You just supply pizza/beer. Im a bit across in the country haha. NJ. I know the calipers should not be that tight and to do it by hand. I was not aware I could do damage when taking something off as well, which is why I asked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Don't remove the caliper from the car to paint them. IMO bleeding the brakes is to much work, for just painting. A wire brush is fine, nobody looks that closely at the calipers anyways. Don't over think this, its not a show car. Brakes are easy just take your time. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Don't remove the caliper from the car to paint them. IMO bleeding the brakes is to much work, for just painting. A wire brush is fine, nobody looks that closely at the calipers anyways. Don't over think this, its not a show car. Brakes are easy just take your time. He should be bleeding them for his upcoming brake change anyways... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Well we sort of swapped pads... One piston on the left and right caliper was seized... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 When you get home price out rebuilt calipers. Before you replace them make sure you can break the rear bleeders loose, just to make sure it's easy to bleed them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ras06LGT Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Don't be a monkey. Get a set of Torque bars - $55 from HF. I use them on the race car all the time. We put the 90lb bar on the impact gun and leave it on all weekend. Wheel nutz go on/off like cake. Brake caliper torque specs are here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-caliper-bolt-torque-specs-186205.html Originally Posted by Windy Road View Post Caliper to bracket - 19.9 ft-lbs Bracket to spindle - 88.5 ft-lb Banjo bolt for brake line to caliper - 13 ft-lb Just want to point out that the caliper bracket to knuckle should be 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs). Seems to be a typo possibly in some of the service manuals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I've never torqued those bolts, some of us who do this type work for a living understand tight enough. If your not sure what your doing...just remember these are your brakes we're talking about. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 When you get home price out rebuilt calipers. Before you replace them make sure you can break the rear bleeders loose, just to make sure it's easy to bleed them. Will do this, are these correct? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=142&partnum=14147042&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BCENTRIC%2B14147042&blanktemplate=true Also till I get them, is it safe to drive around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Are the pistons actually seized or are they just very hard to compress? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Very very hard to compress, as in the only way they would move is by putting my whole 200 pound body into the 6in C clamp that BENT... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I'd say yea, you can drive it, it shouldn't be any worse then before. Its not the best thing to do but in your situation it might be do able. You got me thinking about my wagon, the brakes have been on there over 60,000 miles. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyolles Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Yea right now that car has almost 90k miles on it, bought it at 84k. As far as I know, these are the original calipers. Does anybody know if there is an upgraded caliper that wont cost me 2 grand like the stop techs but would only be a bit more than the stock cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Have you considered getting a pair of OE calipers from a salvage yard (locally or via Ebay)? I bought a front and right LGT caliper off Ebay for $60 shipped each, and they were in excellent shape. Minimal mileage and never saw salt. If you are somewhere near me, I'd sell them to you. I bought them with the intention of powdercoating, but I'll probably never get around to it. Just an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.