JMcDubbs Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I recently bought a LGT 05, and want to do just some minor upgrades. A friend at work recommended running a stage 1 tune, and my other research tells me a good upgrade would be a catless up pipe. The car is 100% stock right now. Does anyone have any input? Do I have to buy the 5-6-700 dollar AP just to get the state 1 tune? I'm pretty much certain these are the only things I am going to do to the car (it has 95K, and I want it to last) so getting the AP seems a little pointless to me, if I'm not going to do anything else to it. Is there another way to get the stage 1 tune? I hear people talking about "chipping" their cars. Is there anything to that, or is it a ripoff? Also, I have read that you can run a stage 1 tune without any upgrades, and still see some performance increase. Is this true, and if so, why wouldn't Subaru manufacture the car to its top capabilities? I'm a little new to the Subbie world, so please don't get too, too technical . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaybird2013 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Welcome! read this http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my05-09-legacy-gt-common-issues-230230.html and read this http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/covertrussians-05-lgt-build-thread-218363.html a used AP V2 sub-002 can be had for $300-$350. Keep your eyes open in the members classifieds. With the AP you can flash a COBB OTS stage 1 map, which will get you off the stock tune. Definitely remove those banjo bolt filters, and have that TURBO checked out, if it's original it could be getting tired. Again in the classifieds you can snag an sti catless UP for $50-$100. I'm sure more experienced members will chime in, but I think this is a good starting point for under $500. EDIT: After all Basic maintenance requirements are met! Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Make sure you're up on basic maintenance before you do a single upgrade. Timing belt needs service within 5-10k, 10 year old suspension parts are starting to wear out completely...need to look at front end lower control arm bushings, end links, sway bar bushings, front and rear struts. You have a bunch of vacuum hoses that are likely old and hardened and should be replaced, lots of basic gaskets such as the intake manifold gaskets, TGV gaskets, bypass valve gasket. Once you're sure that you're up on basic maintenance, then you can start exploring performance. In stock form the car is faster and handles better than 95% of the drivers on the road can handle. If you ignore this advice it's quite likely that you'll be one of the dozens of n00bs each year that buy one of these used, ignores basic maintenance, upgrades the crap out of the car and promptly blows the engine, turbo, trans etc. These guys tend to want to blame everyone but their poor choices. Don't be one of them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 The stock timing MAP has a flaw that will burn valves, the best thing you can do is get the car off the stock MAP, hence stage 1. Get a catless up pipe, if you do not do a Cobb AP you can put a 2.2k ohm resistor in the EGT connector on the right shock tower when you remove the EGT probe with the stock up pipe. Radio Shack has the 2.2k ohm. Learn how to check the oil, never let it run low, always top it off. These cars use oil at a different rate, its not linear. Always keep oil in the car with you. Most guy use Shell Rotella t6 and a good oil filter. Start with that. 5mt or 5eat ? The mt and rear diff need good fluid every 30,000 miles. Make sure you read up on what fluid to use, only a few will work. Do not buy a Cold Air intake. You don't need it, lots of new guys make that mistake. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMcDubbs Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Make sure you're up on basic maintenance before you do a single upgrade. Timing belt needs service within 5-10k, 10 year old suspension parts are starting to wear out completely...need to look at front end lower control arm bushings, end links, sway bar bushings, front and rear struts. You have a bunch of vacuum hoses that are likely old and hardened and should be replaced, lots of basic gaskets such as the intake manifold gaskets, TGV gaskets, bypass valve gasket. Once you're sure that you're up on basic maintenance, then you can start exploring performance. In stock form the car is faster and handles better than 95% of the drivers on the road can handle. If you ignore this advice it's quite likely that you'll be one of the dozens of n00bs each year that buy one of these used, ignores basic maintenance, upgrades the crap out of the car and promptly blows the engine, turbo, trans etc. These guys tend to want to blame everyone but their poor choices. Don't be one of them... Should I change all the vacuum lines, or just visually inspect each one? Are the gaskets you mentioned easy to replace, or should I have a mechanic do them? Also, what exactly do you mean the car is faster than 95% of drivers can handle? Thanks for your advice. Is the LGT known for head gasket issues? I had a 98 Outback that had the head go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBPLGT721 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Should I change all the vacuum lines, or just visually inspect each one? Are the gaskets you mentioned easy to replace, or should I have a mechanic do them? Also, what exactly do you mean the car is faster than 95% of drivers can handle? Thanks for your advice. Is the LGT known for head gasket issues? I had a 98 Outback that had the head go. Hit or miss with these cars. Some do go, others don't. I don't believe its as common for the head gaskets to go. Hoses will be easy/difficult depending on angles and if they're hidden behind/under other parts of the engine. I would say replace as many as possible. Intake manifold gaskets can be quite a pain to do on these cars. If you're not confident to do it on your own, bring to a shop that is well known for working on turbo'd subies. Also, if you're keeping the car for quite some time, you can do mods when stuff gets worn out since they're in need of being replaced anyways (ex: replacing stock end links with better quality aftermarket endlinks). Also, when replacing intake manifold gaskets, tighten fuel clamps, or replace the fuel lines and clamps too. They're known for leaking, since the clamps get loose, along with the rubber hoses aging. Very noticeable in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Should I change all the vacuum lines, or just visually inspect each one? Are the gaskets you mentioned easy to replace, or should I have a mechanic do them? Also, what exactly do you mean the car is faster than 95% of drivers can handle? Thanks for your advice. Is the LGT known for head gasket issues? I had a 98 Outback that had the head go. Contact Free Range Racing for their hose replacement kit - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225429 . I have it and it covers nearly every hose you'll need (the bigger ones are covered in the infamous kit - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/venair-ancillary-hose-kit-group-buy-3-options-3-colors-221557.html ) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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