Rhitter Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I haven't tore apart the block...but from what the top of the pistons and wall look to me I don't feel that's where my problem was. Ringland #4 on mine was cracked. The cylinder was not damaged at all. You can't just eyeball it, have to pull it a part to be sure. Do you know what was causing your low compression? I prefer the IAG topfeed tgv deletes. Little pricier but dang are they sexy http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=40859 Not composite though... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Yeah I seen those, I'd prefer to save the couple hundred and use the zerolift ones. Thanks tho. Tris, I didn't even think about cross reference. Just walked next door to O'Reilly for most of the OEM parts. I just wanted new oil pan I did notice boot on axle under turbo was busted. Replace axle or would repairing boot be sufficient? Parts for rear diff, noticed some leaking when I dropped trans the first time. So figured if imma rebuild pretty much everything under the hood, already replaced trans, center diff... Didn't see the harm when I checked prices. I ordered 2 ocv's, my bad. Usually on here on my phone and at work so typed it wrong. I'm not exactly sure what's causing the low compression. But like I stated in other posts, when I originally did the timing belt the intake cam on the head I'm having misfires on was a tooth off. After I put new timing kit on it and in correct time, the car progressively ran worse. Starting throwing a cyl 1 and 3 misfire code. The dp, upstream o2 bung, and exhaust side of turbo kept glowing. Eventually I heard a loud pop and the car died, which now I've discovered was probably the intercooler coming apart. Anyway, when I'd start it... The 20secs it would run, large clouds of grayish white smoke poured out of the exhaust, really strong odor of unburnt fuel. The shop I took head to said I had valves not seating correctly, supposedly cleaned and fixed. But after putting it together I still had low compression. So when I started pulling motor, when I seen plugs on that head "which were brand new" soaked in oil/gas, strong odor of gas in turbo "brand new" in dp and in intercooler along with oil... I came to the strong gut feeling I had a bad injector on top of a slight boost leak on intercooler "which obviously got really bad" and burnt a valve or valves, causing the misfire all of a sudden. A feeling shop just cleaned it up and gave it back, never solving the compression problem. The cheapest and fastest way imo, was have another shop that was recommended test it... Before tearing apart a possibly good block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Oh and ill order the arp, originally I planned to but figured id save the money since its not gonna be a race car or seeing high boost. But ill return em and order arp. Timing covers, the center one had a slight hole cased by crank pulley rubbing it. Not sure what previous owner did to cause that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 +1 on the composite TGV deletes. I didn't notice they weren't in your list. I have the former Motive Autowerks, now Zerolift ones. http://www.zerolift.com/product-p/zl-tgv-p.htm or http://www.zerolift.com/product-p/zl-tgv.htm Yeah, i think the zerolift are the ones Im looking at too wow those are much prettier than the stock tgvs that i took a screwdriver, sawzall, and die grinder to. and they help convert to topfeed. nice Haha damn I prefer the IAG topfeed tgv deletes. Little pricier but dang are they sexy http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=40859 I wanted the IAG originally, but they're aluminum, heat transfer I'd rather not have. Not composite though... This "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 wow i wish i had your money .. what is there like 5 K in parts ? i just bought a legacy for 4200 oh all your old sensors crank pulies oil pump and anything your going to throw away i'll pay shipping i'll use those parts on my car. i reuse head studs and head gaskets on a regular basis. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 Once its completed, ill be selling anything left over except the new vf40. Wanna keep it as a backup. It'll be couple months tho. Gotta make sure its all stuff I can let go of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 And yeah its alot, I took out a loan for 8k for overhaul/upgrades instead of cutting my loss of 3900 vested already and buying a new one. Once its all said and over with, ill have around 14k invested, that's including the purchase of the car. Not too bad compared to a stock newer car imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 My engine "build" just hit $7,000(ish)... But I have a new long block and Adding a lot of goodies and stuff adds up quick. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 My engine "build" just hit $7,000(ish)... But I have a new long block and Adding a lot of goodies and stuff adds up quick. It sure does. I originally estimated 6600 for quite a bit of goodies, I'm close to that already and other than turbo, dp, accessport and tmic... Its just been replacement parts and reliability mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Oh ill take your used spark plugs too Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 You should probably change your ignition coils too Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 A couple of Notes on the composite TGV deletes from one of their vendors: "The housings fit TOP FEED injectors only. 2004-06 WRX STi and 2005-06 Legacy GT models used side feed injectors. To use these housings on those cars will require sourcing the top-feed injectors and fuel rails, and slight modifications to the intake manifold. Otherwise, these will fit all 2002+ WRX models, and all 2008+ WRX STI. Note that there are two different styles: One fits metal intake manifold cars, and the other fits plastic (composite) intake manifold cars like the 2008+ WRX. Special install notes On metal intake manifold cars, you'll need to run a separate ground wire from the manifold to the block, since there will no longer be an electrical ground through the TGV housings. On 2.0L and early 2.5L cars the inner bolt holes on the intake manifold will need to be slotted to line up with TGV housing." The note I will add is don't over torque them. Some folks have cracked them. Mine have withstood a full season or racing and abuse, including a very bumpy launch off a berm, and others have too. From what I understand the difference between the metal IM model and the composite IM model has to do with the way they seal to the intake, so order the right one! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Oh you should change the starter , altenator, powersteering pump, ac compressor also while your there. I need those prts too And your hood is probably worn out should change it too Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Oh you should change the starter , altenator, powersteering pump, ac compressor also while your there. I need those prts too And your hood is probably worn out should change it too I thought you were serious at first, I was like...why does this guy want someone's used plugs? I'll have lots of parts im sure. Should I post in classifieds or can I list em here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I thought you were serious at first, I was like...why does this guy want someone's used plugs? I'll have lots of parts im sure. Should I post in classifieds or can I list em here? Post in the classifieds with pics & prices. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Looks like you are on a track. I notice you didn't replace your radiator. Speaking from experience, if you are going for more HP & have any plans to ever drive it on a track, you need a better radiator - Koyo or Mishimoto & new hoses. Also check into Infamous's oil line upgrade. I would have passed on the intake bits in the Cobb stage 1 kit, as not much help. Spend your money on the exhaust side. Nameless catback or similar will add more benefit. An upgraded boost controller might help find more power in the upper ranges. Suspension upgrades? With 350hp on tap, your current suspension is going to be suffering. Whiteline & Cusco tend have the best fitment. Instead of stock oil pan, get the KillerB especially if you intend to run on a track. The extra capacity might save your motor (it did mine) Buy a 6 pack of oil filters (infamous has better than oem in bulk). Also get a 6 pack of Blackstone Oil Analysis kits for your first few oil changes. Along with that, get several gallons of good oil (Rotella T6 or similar - I use Delo LE400 15w40). Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I use Delo LE400 15w40). Why 15w40? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Why 15w40? because race motor? and large clearances. Sounds like a diesel truck on startup, however, runs real nice at high rpm Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 because race motor? and large clearances. Sounds like a diesel truck on startup, however, runs real nice at high rpm Do you know what your clearances are? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 because race motor? and large clearances. Sounds like a diesel truck on startup, however, runs real nice at high rpm And just because I love the "Best Oil" controversy: In my race car I use Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30. It is not for street cars because it has no detergents. But it IS loaded up with Phosphorus and Zinc! It has double the level of Phosphorus and Zinc as Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30. Extended Performance: Phosphorus: 700 ; Zinc: 900 Racing: Phosphorus: 1750; Zinc: 1850 https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-racing-oil You will never find it at a local retail store. Expensive as heck, $95 for 6 quarts on Amazon x 6-8 changes during a race season. Plus another quart each weekend.... Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 And just because I love the "Best Oil" controversy: In my race car I use Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30. It is not for street cars because it has no detergents. But it IS loaded up with Phosphorus and Zinc! It has double the level of Phosphorus and Zinc as Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30. Extended Performance: Phosphorus: 700 ; Zinc: 900 Racing: Phosphorus: 1750; Zinc: 1850 https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-racing-oil You will never find it at a local retail store. Expensive as heck, $95 for 6 quarts on Amazon x 6-8 changes during a race season. Plus another quart each weekend.... Criminy! And I thought RedLine 30 weight was expensive Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Do you know what your clearances are? 1/4 inch or so Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 1/4 inch or so Uh, crap, sleep deprived. 25/1000ths, I think. I have the notes from the machine shop at home. It's more than you would want on a street car. Warm up is about 3 minutes Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Criminy! And I thought RedLine 30 weight was expensive Because The REAL Stuff they use in the NASCAR engines, and many other race cars....most people are surprised by the viscosity ratings, but it's still good to 400 degrees! "Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30 is recommended for a wide range of race engine applications including highly loaded flat tappet designs such as NASCAR Cup engines." Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I use the Delo because it has the words "suitable for heavy duty turbo diesel motors" on the front. Given mine sounds like a turbo diesel on startup, I couldn't go wrong. Course like all my other advice, its based on what worked for me. That my car is in pieces in my garage because oem radiator should not deter you. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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