frank_ster Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Stage 50 = turbo v6 swap Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 What I consider stage 1: Dp, up-pipe, basic tune Stage 2: Upgraded turbo up with any OEM turbo, intake, dp, up-pipe, and other bolt ons making around mid to high 200whp #s. Stage 3: Non OEM turbo upgrade, fuel system upgrade, trans upgrades, turbo back, cooling system and intercooler upgrades, internal mechanical mods, and more complicated tunes and other supporting mods making 300-400whp. My goal would be a borderline stage 3. Basically I want the cake, and imma try and eat it too (a mid 300whp reliable car to drive to work, and open some eyes at the track on weekends). But, still keeping the car fairly stock looking, very clean, and co comfortable ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I mean you can call it whatever you like - but for clarity's sake on this forum we refer to the stage's by what I listed above just to make it consistent. And FYI your "stage 1" will give you mid to high 200whp #s Have you searched brentuning's website to give you an idea of what power numbers you will be hitting with your upgrades? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 How does one "douche out some hurt"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 How does one "douche out some hurt"? With a few dollars and a trip to Walgreens. On a serious note, it was a figure of speech by dragging the "douche" kinda rich kids in their fancy cars in my sleeper lgt that was half the cost and not built with mommy's money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 I mean you can call it whatever you like - but for clarity's sake on this forum we refer to the stage's by what I listed above just to make it consistent. And FYI your "stage 1" will give you mid to high 200whp #s Have you searched brentuning's website to give you an idea of what power numbers you will be hitting with your upgrades? Not yet, still reading up to get a set list in place and what's needed to support such mods. Then once im ready to assemble, I was gonna hit up the site for info on a tune ill need with the exact mods ill have. It'll be a slow process, not only because I wanna do it right the first time... But I work an average of 60-64hrs a week in 6days in most cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 My $.02: OEM shortblock. Re-use your heads. Your list of sensors to replace is a good idea. Most of the rest of your list is pretty good. If you want a 2007 Forced Performance 18g I'll have one for sale next week. It's off my race car, I'm swapping in a Blouch 1.5xtr. The 18g probably has less than 1 full year of usage, but all at track speeds. Forget: Cams, waste of money at your anticipated power level. And there is a long thread on NASIOC about how they are FAILING because the blanks are all coming from a cheap Chinese factory, even the Crower and Cosworth cams. Header. However I think the Perrin ELH has a lot going for it. I might be biased though, their shop is not far from me and a LOT of parts on my race car are Perrin. Drew888 may still have a used one for sale. I can't remember if you have an AOS on the list, but at 300HP it's more problems than benefit. Again there is a super long thread on NASIOC, and after 150 pages I came to the conclusion that there is no conclusion! Half the folks like them, half said they are terrible and blamed engine failures on them. I don't have one on my race car at 309Hp and it runs great. I bought Drew888's Spec B that has a Crawford AOS and when I took the intake off the other day two teaspoons of oil poured out. Here's my Cobb Dyno sheet on the Mustang Dyno with the 18g, figure around 340 HP on a DynoJet. Plenty of low rpm TQ for a DD: Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 nothing personal sgt. gator, but id prefer to spend the extra and just buy new. thanks though. couple questions guys, almost finished with the shopping list then the ordering begins. right now im at around 9700-10300 for everything. i already have 8k of thaat in the loan i took out, little over 900 more in savings. with the overtime ive been working, and the projected overhaul to take me 4 months or so im feeling positive. mind you, about 2k of that is replacing sensors, seals, and center diff. another 1300 for suspension and brakes..all in all not to bad. okay. ive decided on the 18g, based on where i wanna go with this car hp wise and where id prefer the response and hp/trq ranges i felt it was my best option. after reading up on it, upgrading the injectors is a deff as the stock runs near peak "97%" on a similar setup. but im indecisive on 2 turbos. 1. the bpt 18g xtr for 1550.00, or "BNR stg 2 vf40-18g/tdo5h" with an upgraded actuator assembly preset at 13 psi. for 775.00 "half the price!" that from what i could tell uses the vf40 housing. ive read 8cm is best way to go, but couldnt find for sure if the bnr vf40 18g was 7 or 8cm. any suggestions? 2. i was looking at the DW top feed conversion kit, seems to come with everything ill need including 850cc injectors. its 580.00. really i could just upgrade the side feed and use the stock fpr, from what i got out of reading anyways. but the 850cc DW side feed's are 630.00 more. why is it more expensive for just the side feed injectors, than the top feed conversion kit with same cc injectors? any suggestions on the difference, if i should upgrade to top feed and the benefit of it vs just upgrading the side feed? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 also, thanks for advise on aos. after your suggestrion and mr. tris...and the couple hrs reading up on it im not going to bother with aos. im also going to leave top and bottom end stock. "save some money to put toward other things" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BL5BO Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Good luck with the build! My "Alpine White" 06 LGT: The Kabigon [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 $$$ money adds up quick "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Would be cheaper to buy a sti inthinks Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Unlike the others here - I think you are crazy for using the stock block. How did you lose compression? Do you have two broken ringlands? Was this at OEM power levels? What tune were you on? Infamous Performance (M Sprank), Underdog, and AZP installs all recommend forged pistons when rebuilding for even a little more power. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 i agree if rebuilding might as well get forged pistons, only downside to forges pistons is cold weather below 0c or 32 f the engine will be noisy, there is nothing bad about the noise its not going to break because of piston slap or rattle. fancy connecting rods wont last 2 seconds longer than regular rods if starved from oil. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brum Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 BNR turbo would be a waste. Go blouch or FP Go with FIC top feed conversion or even the T1 Racing with ID1000's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I need to look into top feed conversions, Injectors, and a fuel pump also. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Why top feed conversion ? Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Why top feed conversion ? Because there's no such thing as a good sidefeed injector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 E85 and composite tgv delete "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 +1 on the composite TGV deletes. I didn't notice they weren't in your list. I have the former Motive Autowerks, now Zerolift ones. http://www.zerolift.com/product-p/zl-tgv-p.htm or http://www.zerolift.com/product-p/zl-tgv.htm Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 wow those are much prettier than the stock tgvs that i took a screwdriver, sawzall, and die grinder to. and they help convert to topfeed. nice BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I prefer the IAG topfeed tgv deletes. Little pricier but dang are they sexy http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=40859 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 +1 on the composite TGV deletes. I didn't notice they weren't in your list. I have the former Motive Autowerks, now Zerolift ones. http://www.zerolift.com/product-p/zl-tgv.htm Thanks! Yeah I had planned to do this after researching. Appreciate the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005_gli Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 update: motor pulled and heads pulled. before I go much further on block, im having the heads tested at a different shop. we did a leak down test prior to pulling the motor and felt pretty confident im losing compression in the head. also, the extremely rich running issue hasn't been exactly pinpointed...but I do have a pretty good idea. this recently cleaned and rebuilt head looked different than the cyl 2 and 4 head "also recently checked, and cleaned". with me having the cyl 1 and 3 misfire and low im assuming the injector was bad. when I pulled the plugs, they were soaked in gas/oil on that head. after talking with some friends, they recommended another shop in Nashville. last time I had taken it to a local shop which gave me the lowest price. "you get what you pay for" is true in some cases I guess. im waiting on some results to see if the other shop "robbed" me and if I could possibly get my money back. anyways, when I started pulling the motor, I noticed the plastic end tank was completely separated from the intercooler (on the side that connects to turbo). so that deff solved some issues imo. maybe I had a boost leak there from the beginning, causes the occasional miss and the loud backfire "I thought was intake backfire" before I parked it was actually the intercooler completely separating? anyways, ive started ordering parts. im waiting on head results before proceeding with block. honestly, I haven't tore apart the block...but from what the top of the pistons and wall look to me I don't feel that's where my problem was. so...heres my parts ordered so far: DW top feed conversion kit with 850cc injectors- 580.00 DW 65c fuel pump- 126.00 BPT 18g - 1550.00 grimmspeed tmic kit - 1000.00 grimmspeed divorced catted dp - 600.00 grimmspeed turbo heat shield - 85.00 (missing when I bought the car) grimmspeed alternator cover - 90.00 grimmspeed radiator shroud with tool tray - 80.00 grimmspeed crank pulley- 122.00 killer b oil pickup - 178.00 killer b oil baffle - 80.00 oem oil pan - 90.00 greddy magnetic drain plug - 24.00 power steering pump rebuilt kit- 13.50 (was leaking) cobb stage 1 package " sf intake, sf air box, v3 accessport" -910.00 oem complete gasket kit - 280.00 oem head bolts - 55.00 oem timing cover set - 115.00 oem oil pump - 180.00 upstream and downstream o2 sensors - 189.00 coolant temp sensor - 19.00 thermostat- 23.00 knock sensor - 69.00 ocv - 89.00 oem radiator- 90.00 upgr8 coolant/ heater hose kit - 200.00 oem front wheel bearings left/right - 298.00 center diff - 510.00 perrin pitch mount - 100.00 group n motor mounts- 145.00 whiteline diff mount in cradle bushings - 54.00 prothane diff front member bushings- 40.00 oem rear diff side seals - 17.00 oem rear diff o-ring- 12.00 oem rear diff pinion seals- 20.00 skf rear diff bearings left/right- 48.00 techna fit ss brake lines front/rear- 114.00 Hart rotors/pads (yes they are ebay, but ive never had a problem with em) - 240.00 and just ordered, thanks sgt. gator.. zerolift composite tgv delete valves -200.00 you guys see anything im missing not block related. like sensors, seals etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I see OEM headbolts on there -- Use ARP, or you'll be sore about it later. Why a new oil pan? If it's not damaged, there's no need to replace it. Some brakekleen, a few trips though the parts washer and it's good. Why the center and rear diff parts? Detroit Axle has good wheel bearings for $85/axle on Amazon -- Maybe you'll want to use those instead? I would punch some of these PNs into Heuberger's parts page and compare against Amazon, as well. Some of the prices you've quoted could be shaved by about $50. Oil pump is really only $130, for example. You'll also need TWO OCVs, I only see one listed. They're ~$90/ea. Coolant temp and knock sensor aren't terrible ideas to replace, honestly. You should be able to shave about $125 in prices and eliminating some extra parts and score a new MAF while you're at it, too. Why all new timing covers? You'll really only break the driver's side rear cover, which is about $45 to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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