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Turbo Failure: Keep or Sell?


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Also, JMP sells turbos? Because OEM new is 1200+ and not easy to find anything cheaper outside eBay stuff and the odd used turbo on here. Though new OEM likely way to go if I decide to keep I guess.

 

New OEM will be the same grenade you have in there now, just, with a slightly longer fuse. JmP rebuilds the VF40s from cores sent in, and makes them into better turbos. It's the best, most cost-effective option here.

 

Do NOT buy a turbo from any seller on eBay.

 

I see you haven't mentioned a tune. You WILL need to get this car off the stock tune, for the health and longevity of the motor.

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New OEM will be the same grenade you have in there now, just, with a slightly longer fuse. JmP rebuilds the VF40s from cores sent in, and makes them into better turbos. It's the best, most cost-effective option here.

 

Do NOT buy a turbo from any seller on eBay.

 

I see you haven't mentioned a tune. You WILL need to get this car off the stock tune, for the health and longevity of the motor.

 

Couldn't have said it better.

 

OP, if you don't have any attachment to the car, then either sell it or part it out. If you cannot change the turbo yourself, you're just shooting yourself in the foot especially with another rebuilt / replacement OEM VF40. Go big or go home ;)

 

MrTris, do you remember the name of the person on romraider that had a map to minimize / get rid of #4 ringland issue?

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Ultimately, I do enjoy the turbo. I just don't think it's worth a headache (naive to believe throwing in new turbo oil line filter would help I guess). I don't think any car is worth that, really.

 

But as mentioned, all cars have issues and the thing about this one..

Well, I put new tires 10K miles ago, new alternator too. That's ~1.5K. i put in oil line and catless uppipe and the 40K service when I got it. Then there is a minimal of 1K for turbo intalled. All in all, outside the car itself (7K), thats over 4K. It's safe to say more like 5K maybe. Thats 12K and if I sell... I get 5K.

 

I don't mind too much since had car 3 years and it's enjoyable car. It's obviously more than one wants to spend on a used car but shit happens.

 

I could take the ~5K I sell it for and buy an H6. But things like tires, the alternator, the battery, wheel bearings, etc. could all go and then I'd wish I stuck with what I had / knew.

 

I know its my decision. I greatly appreciate all the help. I'm leaning towards keeping honestly but we will see. It depends on the state of turbo failure I suppose.

Aside from the turbo issue the rest of what you listed seems more like normal wear and tear / preventative maintenance / repairs unrelated to a turbo vehicle.

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Couldn't have said it better.

 

OP, if you don't have any attachment to the car, then either sell it or part it out. If you cannot change the turbo yourself, you're just shooting yourself in the foot especially with another rebuilt / replacement OEM VF40. Go big or go home ;)

 

MrTris, do you remember the name of the person on romraider that had a map to minimize / get rid of #4 ringland issue?

 

I'm gonna have to disagree with you on the rebuilt option -- Yes, there are many others that are rebuilt to OEM specs with OEM parts and will give the same service life (short) that the OEM turbos do. JmP's turbos don't/won't do that, and the Custom40 is technically bigger, with a bigger wheel and more aggressive vanes, and, for those not seeking gobs of power that need more substantial supporting mods, it's an excellent choice. It's truly what these cars should have come with from the factory.

 

I think you might be thinking of NSFW, he's quite handy with the roms from what I've heard.

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New OEM will be the same grenade you have in there now, just, with a slightly longer fuse. JmP rebuilds the VF40s from cores sent in, and makes them into better turbos. It's the best, most cost-effective option here.

 

Do NOT buy a turbo from any seller on eBay.

 

I see you haven't mentioned a tune. You WILL need to get this car off the stock tune, for the health and longevity of the motor.

 

just got one from him after my turbo went (had 100k on it). rebuilt is a SOLID build. can't wait to get it in

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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Also, JMP sells turbos? Because OEM new is 1200+ and not easy to find anything cheaper outside eBay stuff and the odd used turbo on here. Though new OEM likely way to go if I decide to keep I guess.

 

Your new here. Listen to what MrTris is telling you.

 

My vf52 has over 64,000 miles at 21psi. I put a ej257 in the car 12,000 later, that now has over 50,000 miles at 21psi. The car has close to 205,000 miles.

 

It's my DD and will be going back to VT tonight for another ski weekend.

 

Get a turbo from JmP remove the banjo filter, bolt it on with a new oil return line and be happy for a long time.

 

Oh, get the car off the factory MAP.

 

read my click here link.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Oh, get the car off the factory MAP.

 

read my click here link.

I'm giving this a lot of thought. I've looked into the two primary options available: Cobb and the Tactrix route (with a third party tune). Given my desire is to move off of the stock map (for reliabilities sake) which is recommended? The Tactrix plus third party tune seems to be the lower cost route but the Cobb solution seems to be the safest route. If I go Tactrixwho would you recommend I speak to about obtaining a tune? Are there any free, reliable tunes that will just remove the lean condition (I believe that's the problem)? I'm not adverse to spending money but since I'm merely looking to get off the stock tune lower cost is preferred.

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I'm giving this a lot of thought. I've looked into the two primary options available: Cobb and the Tactrix route (with a third party tune). Given my desire is to move off of the stock map (for reliabilities sake) which is recommended? The Tactrix plus third party tune seems to be the lower cost route but the Cobb solution seems to be the safest route. If I go Tactrixwho would you recommend I speak to about obtaining a tune? Are there any free, reliable tunes that will just remove the lean condition (I believe that's the problem)? I'm not adverse to spending money but since I'm merely looking to get off the stock tune lower cost is preferred.

 

Pickup a used v2 AP for ~$300. Best cost-effective option, plus room to grow, should you wish to, in the future.

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