silverone Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 finely got a donor car for the motor swap from my totaled lgt .wile I'm in there I want to replace the clutch kit. Anyone have a favorite, I'm looking for a mild upgrade over stock. Would that be considered a stage one? both cars are 2.5's and have stock motors, the 98 lgt is a 4eat the the 97 O.B. is a 5mt. I plan on replacing the rear seal on the motor, should I do transmission seals too? Any thing else u think of (wile I'm in there) thanks in advance, all suggestions greatly appreciated! ps the Outback has been sitting four quite a wile at least 3 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverone Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 plan on posting pics soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 same motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverone Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 same motor This I know, but thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 to make the 98 engine go into the 97 car easier, (that is what you want to do , right?) swap your original intake manifold onto the new long block. the 98 does not have the needed vac lines on the intake assembly to connect to the charcoal canister in front of the engine. (next to the ABS pump.) swap the intakes and you are good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Regular Exedy clutch. The Sachs clutch is also good. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtis9813 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 to make the 98 engine go into the 97 car easier, (that is what you want to do , right?) swap your original intake manifold onto the new long block. the 98 does not have the needed vac lines on the intake assembly to connect to the charcoal canister in front of the engine. (next to the ABS pump.) swap the intakes and you are good to go. This is actually not neccessary. I have a 98 2.5 in my 97 GT. The Intake manifold from the 98 will work fine with the 98 evap hard line. Only difference is that the line runs towards the back of the intake manifold to plug directly into the evap purge solenoid valve, when on the 97 it routes to the front plugs into the charcoal canister and then has an additional line that runs back to the the purge valve. On my car all I did was run a rubber vac line from the evap hardline in the back to the charcoal canister and then another back to the evap purge solenoid. Using the hard evap lines on the 97 manifold would allow for a cleaner stock look but both the 97 and 98 lines can be used without an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtis9813 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 finely got a donor car for the motor swap from my totaled lgt .wile I'm in there I want to replace the clutch kit. Anyone have a favorite, I'm looking for a mild upgrade over stock. Would that be considered a stage one? both cars are 2.5's and have stock motors, the 98 lgt is a 4eat the the 97 O.B. is a 5mt. I plan on replacing the rear seal on the motor, should I do transmission seals too? Any thing else u think of (wile I'm in there) thanks in advance, all suggestions greatly appreciated! ps the Outback has been sitting four quite a wile at least 3 years. When you do the swap make sure you keep the in engine bay charcoal canister and follow the same evap and vacuum set up for the 97. I used to have a p0440 evap code on my dash for 2 years because I had the 98 strut tower sensors which have one less vacuum line and although the car ran perfectly fine the computer was detecting an "incorrect vacuum flow". As long as you do this the car should run fine and with no check engine lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverone Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 thanks for all the helpful reply's, any thing else u can think of I need all the help I can get Lol. Still working on pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 if you are doing the work yourself, you need to do a search for ''ej22 swap'' posted by me in ''second gen'' forum. there some tips that will save you some work. some of the info will not apply since both engine are ej25s, like the flex plate, but the process is the same. like remove the intake manifold to get to the flex plate bolts, on auto trans cars, AC flop tip, oil separator plate, oil pump reseal, lower trans / engine nuts, jacking the trans , save your coolant, unless it is old. exhaust to heads, use an impact wrench if you can. start spraying the bolts now. new timing parts and plugs before install. any new parts on your old engine, swap over. hood prop tip. remove the throttle cables, but do not ''adjust them, one nut does not need to be touched. for me, i used one plastic tub for the bolts removed from above the engine, and another one for bolts removed from below. i never labeled anything, but i always had another lego to look at. so if you only have one lego, either label or take pics, or both. leave as many hoses on the car as is practical. but note where they connect to the engine. 3 ''gas'' lines & several vac line some folks can do this in a day, r&r. but i would plan on a weekend, at least. they it easy compared to some others, but i had never done it before, so i was very slow and tried to understand each item before i disconnected it. this made it easier to re-install. but Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 When you do the swap make sure you keep the in engine bay charcoal canister and follow the same evap and vacuum set up for the 97. I used to have a p0440 evap code on my dash for 2 years because I had the 98 strut tower sensors which have one less vacuum line and although the car ran perfectly fine the computer was detecting an "incorrect vacuum flow". As long as you do this the car should run fine and with no check engine lights. if you had swapped the original intake on to the ''new'' engine, you would not have had this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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