dreday00 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Hey All I decided to buy a 05 Legacy GT Limited from a Dealer for 11k It has 50k miles on it Navy blue pearl No Dents 1 owner I've only had it for 4 days What do I do? BTW I'm coming from an 99' accord no mods or any of that stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyceWare Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Nice, low miles! Start by reading, reading, and more reading. The many stickies and maintence threads will help you get a better understanding of your journey ahead . A couple of things to get you started: -Remove banjo bolt filters (search for this) -Change your oil, most here use rotella t6 5w40 -Get off the stock tune. Cobb AP or open source Google is your friend. In the search box type: site:legacygt.com banjo bolt filter Good luck and welcome to the site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonopolyMan Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 First mod I got was the Infamous turbo oil feed kit. It replaces and relocates the stock oil feed lines for the turbo which bypasses the banjo bolt that has a screen in it. The biggest problem that occurs is the filter gets clogged and starves the turbo of oil, seizing it up and potentially blowing your engine also. The second mod I did was a catless up pipe. The pipe FEEDING the turbo has a cat (stupid design that Subaru fixed in 07 I believe) so when the catalytic converter starts breaking apart (which most eventually do) the stuff goes straight into the turbo and ruins it. I went with an Invidia one but there are lots on the market. If you want to pound it out just make sure you do it outside as the stuff is toxic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Leak it down before any mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreday00 Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 ok i will have to research this site for the banjo issue thanks for the replies! Im I NY will i screw up my inspection with this mod? its my daily driver so i wonder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 ok i will have to research this site for the banjo issue thanks for the replies! Im I NY will i screw up my inspection with this mod? its my daily driver so i wonder No, it has nothing to do with smog, and the filters are impossible to see whether they are there or not anyway. The banjo-bolt issue is with the little micro filter within the banjo-bolt itself. The filter can clog and starve the turbo of oil killing it in short order. If your turbo goes, your engine could follow. You can see the various anatomies of the banjo bolts here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-outback-xt-rebuild-chronicles-233261p7.html?highlight=chronicles There are two banjo-bolts that have filters in them from Subaru (the two with filters on my car had the bump on top). This has been addressed in a bulletin from Subaru and the one near the filter may have been removed already if your car has had its maintenance done at a Subaru dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 All the important stuff has been covered... Just check your oil often, almost all LGTs consume some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee07 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Change all fluids, full detail and then just drive it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Do nothing. Enjoy the ownership of a forced induction car. Drive safely. Oh yea! Welcome ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Your first mod should be a new shortblock. Welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperScoob Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Get a catless up pipe as mentioned, and when you go to replace the up pipe, it makes it much easier to access the banjo bolt on the passenger side. I got two birds stoned at once (TPB reference) by doing this, made it very easy to get that bolt out and remove the screen. Since that screen looked fine @ 75k miles, I decided not to bother with the driver side. I believe that if the driver side oil line becomes clogged, you will get a CEL with a code that has something to do with camshaft timing. I'm on my phone, or I would look up exactly what code that is for. But, I believe the driver's side oil line feeds the mechanism that provides VVT. Please correct me if I'm wrong, still learning here too. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Get a catless up pipe as mentioned, and when you go to replace the up pipe, it makes it much easier to access the banjo bolt on the passenger side. I got two birds stoned at once (TPB reference) by doing this, made it very easy to get that bolt out and remove the screen. Since that screen looked fine @ 75k miles, I decided not to bother with the driver side. I believe that if the driver side oil line becomes clogged, you will get a CEL with a code that has something to do with camshaft timing. I'm on my phone, or I would look up exactly what code that is for. But, I believe the driver's side oil line feeds the mechanism that provides VVT. Please correct me if I'm wrong, still learning here too. lol Wait, you mean we only have AVCS on one side of the motor?? The OCVs, via feedback from the camshaft position sensor, regulate the oil flow into the intake cams, which fluidly alters the angle and duration of the lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I've heard New York has pretty strict emissions, are you guys sure he should get a catless up pipe? I think Boyceware hit the nail on the head the best. I'm not sure where you are in NY, but AZP is supposed to be a really good shop located in northern NJ. The owner is a member of this forum and knows a lot about LGT's http://azpinstalls.com/web/ http://legacygt.com/forums/member.php?u=976 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonopolyMan Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Yeah not sure about the emissions, I don't have any so it wasn't an issue for me. But he for sure needs to upgrade his turbo oil feed system and ditch the screened banjo bolt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 See this thread: http://www.buffaloscooby.com/showthread.php?21200-Turbo-Back-Exhaust-that-is-Legal-in-NY and others linked to it. My understanding is that you will get by fine with catless up pipe and catted downpipe with no CELs triggered. Most inspection stations will just go by their computer and not do a visual inspection of the downpipe. The main issue with NY is that no shop will install up pipes or downpipes because of the potential for large fine. You have to find a garage mechanic, DIY, or go out of state (AZP installs in NJ, Moore Performance in PA). A tuner like Innovative can tune it once installed, but they won't do installations anymore. Do search on CEL triggers related to aftermarket up pipes. There is a physical fix of using a resistor to trick the ECU into thinking a sensor is still there, or it can be removed during a tune. Read this thread on the major reliability mods : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html?t=178342&highlight=reliability+mods> My feeling is to first get it checked out by someone who knows Subarus and get their used car inspection: compression/leak down tests to get yourself a baseline on where it is. Unless you have all the maintenance records, I'd change all the fluids using OEM or recommended brands (Oil, oil filter, air filter, coolant/coolant conditioner, transmission fluid, rear differential, power steering fluid, brake fluid. That way you know you are starting from a solid foundation. Things to consider after the reliability mods: -headlight bulbs (Osram Rallye are recommended) -Fumato Valve to make oil changes easier. -Get in habit of checking oil. Change oil at low oil change interval -PCV valve -Stage 1 cobb -up pipe -Suspension upgrade before stage 2 -Centric rotors, Hawk HPS pads -Lower control arm bushing -bullet proof TMIC upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Here is a MUST FIX list in order to get a reliable Legacy. Remove Banjo filters - especially the turbo one (passenger side), driver side AVCS not a must but should remove eventually too.Catless Uppipe: Stock one has a cat before the turbo, not only is it a restriction, it's also know to break apart and kill turbos. Get 07+ WRX/Legacy/STI one if you want oem, good aftermarket if you want SS and better flow.Crank Pulley Falls Appart - Get a new oem one or just upgrade to a solid lightweight aftermarket one.Retune the car, only need to zero out two tables: 1. Stock Tune is too lean in boost 2. Stock Tune adds extra timing to detonation sensitive cylinders. Also if your manual, make sure your radiator relay #2 was replaced and your fans are not always on. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Swap in a buick v6 turbo Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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