Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 So I've got a leaking oil pan and oil cooler Oring I've got the Oring from autozone Should I make my own oil pan gasket or buy a pre made one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Buy one from the auto parts store. While your down there, do you have a catless up pipe ? You'll need a 24mm deep socket for the oil cooler stud/bolt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 No I don't have a catless up pipe yet I wish I had one could I gut the stock one or is that just to much work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Use Permatex Ultra Black for the oil pan it will last a lot longer than the standard gaskets. I've used it on all my vehicles and non of them have leaked. Here's a video to help you out, since the pan is a b!tch to get out. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQcABlBktQw]Subaru Oil Pan Gasket How to - YouTube[/ame] My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Oh that looks like a pain in the ass Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Oh that looks like a pain in the ass Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well, it has to be, since there's no "oil pan gasket" -- You make one from RTV. I second the use of UltraBlack, it's the only way to go. Get some studs, too. M6x1.25x25mm and matching flanged hex nuts should do the trick. You'll need about 25 of each. Unless you're gonna take the motor out to do this job, it'll make seating the pan after applying the RTV, easier and less messy. Look into either replacing the pickup with a Killer B or Moroso unit, or, at the very least, a new OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 I didn't think they had a gasket I don't know what autozone sold me lol I'm gona take it back and get the rtv and I'm gona order a killer B pick up and a catless up pipe while I'm down there just get it over with then gona do the infamous turbo oil feed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 And studs I'm kinda Lost on what you mean with the studs ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I didn't think they had a gasket I don't know what autozone sold me lol I'm gona take it back and get the rtv and I'm gona order a killer B pick up and a catless up pipe while I'm down there just get it over with then gona do the infamous turbo oil feed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Your shipping to AK will already be killer as it is -- I would hop online and buy the parts on Amazon, unless you want to pay Autozone's markup. Do you have a fastener store there? Ask for black oxide set screws in m6x1.25x25mm 30mm is fine, too, but you don't wanna go for something too long. Installation note: Not ALL the studs will bottom out; three or four will protrude into the crankcase. Eyeball them and get them level with the others that DO bottom out so that your stud pressure is even all the way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Here, for reference, this is what I did: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Ah nice I'm gona be doing that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 So is taking the oil cooler off easy or is it a pita? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 So is taking the oil cooler off easy or is it a pita? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Very easy, just need a 24mm deep socket -- not something most have in their toolbox. Though, because of where you live, I'm assuming you know someone who works on heavy machinery for a living, and that's definitely something they'd have on-hand and be able to loan you for about ten minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankinroo Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Awesome I'll get one it's better then paying subaru $650 to do the Oring and oil pan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 No I don't have a catless up pipe yet I wish I had one could I gut the stock one or is that just to much work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Never gut the UP, just get a catless one from invidia. If you guy it yourself there is a chance of material being left in there and it getting sucked into your turbo, which is needless to say a bad thing. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 I didn't think they had a gasket I don't know what autozone sold me lol I'm gona take it back and get the rtv and I'm gona order a killer B pick up and a catless up pipe while I'm down there just get it over with then gona do the infamous turbo oil feed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Shoot me an e-mail if you are interested in the Killer B oil pickup and the Invidia UP as a package. I can send them up to you! -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 25, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 25, 2014 Installation note: Not ALL the studs will bottom out; three or four will protrude into the crankcase. Eyeball them and get them level with the others that DO bottom out so that your stud pressure is even all the way around. I like the idea of installing studs, but how the heck do you plan on tightening an nut onto a stud that hasn't bottomed out either at the bottom of the threaded hole or against a threadless collar on the stud itself? When you try to install the nut, a stud that hasn't bottomed out would be prone to turning itself. I think it would be best to install studs where you can in order to make seating the pan easier, but hold on to some of the small bolts to install in the holes where a stud won't bottom out. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 I like the idea of installing studs, but how the heck do you plan on tightening an nut onto a stud that hasn't bottomed out either at the bottom of the threaded hole or against a threadless collar on the stud itself? When you try to install the nut, a stud that hasn't bottomed out would be prone to turning itself. I think it would be best to install studs where you can in order to make seating the pan easier, but hold on to some of the small bolts to install in the holes where a stud won't bottom out. Whenever you get around to doing a rebuild, you'll see what I mean -- it makes sense when you're looking at it. Stud doesn't have to bottom out to stay tight, the but holds it plenty well, as does the ultra black on the rest of the shank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 26, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 26, 2014 Whenever you get around to doing a rebuild, you'll see what I mean -- it makes sense when you're looking at it. Stud doesn't have to bottom out to stay tight, the but holds it plenty well, as does the ultra black on the rest of the shank. Well, I've replaced my oil pan so I know what you mean. A stud that doesn't secure itself doesn't work. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 I had no issues with stud backing out, maybe because I live in CA. Took my oil pan bolts off and had no problems with any of the studs. It maybe a good idea to have a few on stock, but no reason to replace all of them. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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