Schmidttys GT Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 OK...another question for the newbie... I was driving yesterday and set my cruise control at 45 (speed trap town). About 30 seconds later, the cruise kicks off and the check engine light comes on. Car is running flawlessly... Weird issue: Cruise control light is continuing to blink on and off. I have attempted to turn the cruise on and off numerous times, but the light continues to blink. I know I need to get the codes read to see what caused the check engine light...but why in the world is the cruise control light blinking? Additionally, the cruise control will not work either. Could the check engine light be caused by the cruise control? Or vice versa? Thanks, Schmidtty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Check engine light disables cruise. Check the code then get back to us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Check engine light disables cruise. Check the code then get back to us. Thanks for the quick response. First car I have ever owned that did that! LOL! Thanks again! Schmidtty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 OK, so I went to Autozone and had them run the OBDII Scan Tool. It came back with error code: P0021 The print out they give you states: Camshaft Position A-timing over advance or performance (Bank 2) Probable Cause: Low or Dirty Oil Blocked Oil Passage Timing Belt Misalignment Failed AVCS solenoid Any insight from you with much more knowledge about these cars? Hopefully it is just due for an oil change...I know I am due for that. That would be way to easy. Thanks for any help. Schmidtty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specbwee Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Oil change first. If that doesn't help, switch your OCV's and see if you get the code on bank 1. If its still bank 2, either its your feed line or you will have to change out the gear. This happened to me. Idol was off at times and I could clear the code and everything would run great. If I got into boost the code would pop again very shortly after and things would run fine but the idol would be off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 So how happy has your turbo been? Ever checked the banjo bolt filter? DTC P0021 INTAKE CAMSHAFT POSITION - TIMING OVER-ADVANCED OR SYSTEM PERFORMANCE (BANK 2) - H4DOTC DTC DETECTING CONDITION: • Two consecutive driving cycles with fault • GENERAL DESCRIPTION TROUBLE SYMPTOM: • Engine stalls. • Improper idling STEP 1: CHECK CURRENT DATA. 1) Start the engine and let it idle. 2) Inspect the output of AVCS advance angle and oil flow control solenoid valve duty. CHECK: Is AVCS advance approximately 0 degrees, and the oil flow control solenoid valve duty output approx. 10%? IF "YES": Check the following item and repair or replace if necessary. • Engine oil (amount, dirt) • Oil pipe (clog) • Oil flow control solenoid valve (clog or dirt of oil routing, setting of spring, clog of valve) • Intake camshaft (dirt, damage of camshaft) • Timing belt (matching of timing mark) IF "NO": A temporary malfunction. Perform the following, and clean the oil routing: Replace the engine oil and idle the engine for 5 minutes, and then replace the oil filter and engine oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Car is running flawlessly. Idles smooth, pulls strong in boost. I am due for an oil change. Do these things really throw a CEL for dirty oil? It has been burning about a quart of oil every two weeks...I drive about 1200 miles in those two weeks consistently. I will get the oil changed this weekend and see if that helps. Thanks, Schmidtty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 A quart every 1200 miles? That's not good. Check your OCVs and pcv valve along with the turbo banjo bolt filter. Maybe compression and leak down test for piece of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specbwee Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Bahh.. That's not good. Sounds like rings. Check your compression. Cylinder 4 is usually a winner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 inB4 Max's sig line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 GEX in post #6, lots of good info there. Sad to hear you have to wait till the weekend to change the oil. It should be done ASAP. You may even want to think about a can of motor flush. I would do that first off. How many miles on engine and turbo ? I'll assume the car is on the factory tune, that's not good either. Stage1 is much safer. CC low limit is 45mph...I wouldn't do that again. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Thanks for all the great input. I am going to order new OCV's just to be safe...seems like a cheap price for peace of mind. I found them for $88.50 each, is there somewhere that is much cheaper? I will put them in this weekend. Here is my list of work for this weekend: OCV Replacement Banjo Bolt Filter Check PCV Valve Replacement Engine Flush Engine Oil & Filter (High Mileage) Air Filter (just because) Car has 119,000 miles on it. Turbo has already been replaced once before I bought it. Turbo has approximately 50K on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redryan98 Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Thanks for all the great input. I am going to order new OCV's just to be safe...seems like a cheap price for peace of mind. I found them for $88.50 each, is there somewhere that is much cheaper? I will put them in this weekend. Here is my list of work for this weekend: OCV Replacement Banjo Bolt Filter Check PCV Valve Replacement Engine Flush Engine Oil & Filter (High Mileage) Air Filter (just because) Car has 119,000 miles on it. Turbo has already been replaced once before I bought it. Turbo has approximately 50K on it. Before you order OCV's, do what someone suggested and swap the ones you already have. If the trouble code moves, than you've identified the problem. If it remains, than the OCVs are not the culprit and you've saved some money you'll need to fix whatever the issue actually is. What type of oil are you going to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Was just going to use Pennzoil High Mileage 5w30. Not sure of the oil change history on this car, and heard going to synthetic this late in the game could cause more oil consumption. And I definitely don't need it burning more oil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 That's an old wifes tall. You can use synthetic. Having said that, I ran cheap dino oil, mobil 5000, Texaco, Exxon, Shell which ever was on sale at Walmart and Fram filters for 154,000 miles with no ill effects. I would run 5000 mile OCI during the winter and 3500-4000 during the summer. I now run Amsoil European 5w-40 year round in both cars with 7000 mile OCI using there filter. Like redryan said swap OCV before you spend your money. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaklandmiLGT Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Im getting this same code, how does one inspect output of avcs advance angle and oil flow control solenoid valve duty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Im getting this same code, how does one inspect output of avcs advance angle and oil flow control solenoid valve duty? You'll need to use a Tactrix cable or an OBDII -to- bluetooth adapter and use BtSSM, or a Cobb AP -- All of which will give you readouts of what the ECU is seeing for those values and allow you to get a better idea of how things are running - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaklandmiLGT Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Thanks tris. Well before i got into diagnosing this i figured i would change my oil and that ended up getting rid of the cel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Forgot to log back in and provide an update. Changed the oil. CEL went off within 50 miles of changing the oil. Seeing how it was cost effective and easy to do...I went ahead and changed out the OCV's anyway. Seems like cheap insurance to replace things that may go wrong with this car since it has almost 120K on the ODO. I was going to do the PCV valve as well, but as others have stated in this forum...it is a royal PITA to get it separated from the fitting. I left it in there for now, but will tackle it this weekend. I also took out and checked what I thought was the Banjo Bolt Filter, but now that I am looking here on the forum I have more questions for this weekend when I get back under the hood. The banjo bolt I found had an extremely small hole for the oil to flow through. Here on the forum there are pics of banjo bolts that you can actually look into and see the filter...the one I found seemed to be barely bigger than a pin head. If so, I fear that if I am looking at the correct banjo bolt that it could be starving my turbo for oil. On a good note...my car has stopped using oil like it was. After the last 600 miles since the oil change it has not used a drop of oil. Schmidtty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Nope, that hole is supposed to be small. Its intent is to restrict flow, believe it or not. EDIT: We're talking about the one ON the turbo itself, right? On the top there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 I believe I had the right banjo bolt...it was just on the front side of the turbo housing. I will tear it apart again this weekend and take pics to post and verify with the forum experts this weekend. But what concerns me is that if I am looking at the correct banjo bolt...it absolutely looks nothing like the one in the pic below: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37007&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1319095821 On a separate note...when I was replacing the OCV's, etc., this past weekend I noticed the downpipe on this car has been wrapped in header wrap. It appeared to still have the catalytic converter though, and everything was wrapped...I was under the impression that the converters get extremely hot, should that be wrapped? One more topic since I am asking a lot already. Is there a way to find out if this car has been tuned at some point in it's life? Gas is down to $2.63 for premium here in Texas so I finally put some 93 octane in the old girl. When I run 87 octane she runs ok, but has some hesitation on acceleration. Now that she is running 93 octane she pulls extremely strong. Could this be due to it having a tune. From the change, I don't think I should run anything but 93 octane because the change was dramatic. Thanks as always for the assistance. Schmidtty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I believe I had the right banjo bolt...it was just on the front side of the turbo housing. I will tear it apart again this weekend and take pics to post and verify with the forum experts this weekend. But what concerns me is that if I am looking at the correct banjo bolt...it absolutely looks nothing like the one in the pic below: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37007&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1319095821 On a separate note...when I was replacing the OCV's, etc., this past weekend I noticed the downpipe on this car has been wrapped in header wrap. It appeared to still have the catalytic converter though, and everything was wrapped...I was under the impression that the converters get extremely hot, should that be wrapped? One more topic since I am asking a lot already. Is there a way to find out if this car has been tuned at some point in it's life? Gas is down to $2.63 for premium here in Texas so I finally put some 93 octane in the old girl. When I run 87 octane she runs ok, but has some hesitation on acceleration. Now that she is running 93 octane she pulls extremely strong. Could this be due to it having a tune. From the change, I don't think I should run anything but 93 octane because the change was dramatic. Thanks as always for the assistance. Schmidtty What do you mean you FINALLY put premium in?!?!? Have you not been putting in at least 91oct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmidttys GT Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 I figured I would get that reaction! LOL! First time turbo car owner and didn't know it required higher octane. Normally I have seen cars that required premium actually state on the dash "premium only". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 The one in the pic below is on the head(s). The one for your turbo should have a hole about half that size. Should also be a different wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I believe the gas door say's 91 octane min. The two banjo bolts on the heads are a 17mm wrench, the oil supply at the turbo is a 14mm wrench. OP, I think your seeing a wrapped flex pipe for your up pipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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