JoeNathan Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I'm starting a new thread with this instead of using my existing one. I'm going to post all my tear down and engine pull pictures for my 99 SUS Legacy, mostly for my own use later when I'm putting the damn thing back together I'm going to replace most of the seals and gaskets, timing belt, reconditioning the heads at the machine shop and replacing the headgaskets. Through all that I'm going to try and obsessively document it for you kid's consumption. I'll post all parts and instructions as I put them in. Starting pictures These are all the pictures with everything together http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-sZMMk9G/0/L/IMG_5704-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-dDFCBdj/0/L/IMG_5705-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-SpwcKgs/0/L/IMG_5706-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-MxQ4GvB/0/L/IMG_5707-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-wmMrVmV/0/L/IMG_5708-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-wwRQPSL/0/L/IMG_5709-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-ZPGdKpx/0/L/IMG_5710-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-tmBTHPv/0/L/IMG_5711-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-xXdhmB8/0/L/IMG_5712-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-VXVSHDn/0/L/IMG_5713-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-rfvGGBG/0/L/IMG_5714-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-7CHQ2RN/0/L/IMG_5725-L.jpg Engine Pull First things first, disconnect the fuel pump, and start the engine for a bit to release fuel pressure. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-f7F5hBh/0/L/IMG_5717-L.jpg Next, use this radiator fluid drain plug to drain out the radiator fluid. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-9wMrNMF/0/L/IMG_5719-L.jpg Then I disconnected the upper return line for the radiator. This along with opening the radiator fill cap, allowed air to get into the top and allows the fluid to flow out more quickly. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-ptK8c2G/0/L/IMG_5721-L.jpg Next loosen the intake assembly, there's a few clamps to get rid of then two bolts on the larger assembly. Take those off and slide the whole thing out, there's a few vacuum hoses on the underside, I've circled them here. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-HZFR4Gb/0/L/IMG_5726-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-jDLbrxS/0/L/IMG_5727-L.jpg Now there should most of the fluid should drained out of the radiator, take off the large hose on the bottom drivers side, and then the two transmission fluid lines. Take the whole assembly out. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-dfJ4rdd/0/L/IMG_5728-L.jpg Next I didn't want to disconnect the A/C lines and be forced to deal with refrigerant and the like. So I plan on just taking the whole compressor unit off and stowing it to the side. There's 5 bolts holding the whole thing on, one was pretty tricky to get to and required a u-joint on my wrench. Just lift the thing up and set it to the side. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-dfJ4rdd/0/L/IMG_5728-L.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Next up is a few fuel lines, I've marked them with tape and my ever trust worthy tally marks to tell which fuel line goes to where http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-3LKtHrQ/0/L/IMG_5735-L.jpg After this I took off the throttle and cruise control wires. They just pop off and I should have marked which was which, but I didn't so lets hope that doesn't cause a problem putting it back together Now on to the engine mount studs. I just removed the two bolts at the bottom, figure I'll leave the mounts on when I remove the engine and then take them off the engine when they're easier to get to. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-p7G4QcG/0/L/IMG_5738-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-z6vkCWP/0/L/IMG_5739-Edit-L.jpg Now there's two heat exchange hoses that go to the heater core from the back of the engine to the firewall. Take those clips off and remove those. Should be careful to have buckets under the engine as you'll probably get some more radiator fluid coming out. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-JcG2frT/0/L/IMG_5741-L.jpg Now to take off the starter connections. There's a ground line on the front and the hot line more towards the back. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-vBDBwmX/0/L/IMG_5742-L.jpg Now on to the majority of the electrical harness. There's two that look very similar so I marked the two with tape and tally marks. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-KPBxXfc/0/L/IMG_5746-L.jpg So the next step is to disconnect the torque converter, in order to do this I'd heard you need to disconnect the alternator, which in my case isn't true. However I removed the alternator anyhow. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-ZLGLVPN/0/L/IMG_5748-L.jpg There's a plastic cover for an access port on the rear of the engine right in front of the bell housing. Take that off. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-C6T9KRC/0/L/IMG_5750-L.jpg Then rotate the engine until a bolt comes around to the access port. Undo the bolt, there ends up being 4 to takeout. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-JPtGwCw/0/L/IMG_5751-L.jpg Now there's 3 bolts on each side of the bell housing, and 2 nuts on the lower end to take off. I unfortunately didn't get a picture of them as they're pretty hard to photograph but fairly easy to find. Also I took off the transmission bolts on the underside. This allows you to move the whole drive train up and slip the engine off the torque converter. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-rFp4xfV/0/L/IMG_5754-Edit-L.jpg And out it comes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Engine Teardown Here's the engine set up on the stand. Most of the teardown is pretty straight forward so I'm just going to post pictures of what it looks like while being taken apart. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-hf9p3t3/0/L/IMG_5755-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-cn2Jj44/0/L/IMG_5756-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-4JCG5wZ/0/L/IMG_5757-L.jpg[/url http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-fqgRNKB/0/L/IMG_5758-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-LCsw7sW/0/L/IMG_5759-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-XSVpXBV/0/L/IMG_5760-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-98RGc3x/0/L/IMG_5761-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-kV3D2Nr/0/L/IMG_5762-L.jpg Removed the power steering pump and ignition coil/wires. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-MkWTfSj/0/L/IMG_5763-L.jpg Removed the intake headers http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-fG9bJfs/0/L/IMG_5765-L.jpg Removed the cover for the timing belt and the harmonic balancer. In order to get the balancer off I placed a screwdriver on the back fly wheel to stop the engine from turning then used a breaker bar to get the bolt off. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-r5CgvSn/0/L/IMG_5766-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-vBks5sx/0/L/IMG_5767-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-hc9VT89/0/L/IMG_5768-L.jpg Now I aligned the engine for top dead center. There really isn't much point because the heads are coming off anyhow and I'm going to ruin that timing but it'll be good to know the pistons are aligned right. Match the double marks so they're pointing together, and match the single marks so they align with the marks on the cover. The arrows should be pointing up and to the right. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-6XD7kdk/0/L/IMG_5769-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-9KpS2jh/0/L/IMG_5771-L.jpg The crankshaft marking had me confused because the service manual had it pointing up. However when I aligned all my cams it ended up pointing more towards the right. So gonna have to double check this I guess. \ http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-rQ2jcxr/0/L/IMG_5770-L.jpg Now to take the covers off the heads. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-tgjsCK2/0/L/IMG_5772-L.jpg I need to take the head bolts off. I took the cams off. I know it's possible to not do that but I didn't want to risk banging up anything in there. So take off the bearings and the pulleys on the end. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-tgjsCK2/0/L/IMG_5772-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-tnGGw9q/0/L/IMG_5773-L.jpg Now I have free access to the head bolts. So just take these off, there's 6 http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-KGwL4VJ/0/L/IMG_5774-L.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Once the head bolts are off the cylinder head should just come off. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-BFZPztM/0/L/IMG_5776-L.jpg http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-mpBh3QN/0/L/IMG_5777-L.jpg And now I seal off the cylinders so no crap gets in there and the heads go off to the machine shop. http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-mJStBGd/0/L/IMG_5778-L.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 reserved #3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 reserved #4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 reserved #5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Next up is a few vacuum lines, I've marked them with tape and my ever trust worthy tally marks to tell which vacuum line goes to where http://photos.jonathancummins.com/Cars/SubaruEngineTeardown/i-3LKtHrQ/0/L/IMG_5735-L.jpg Those are your fuel supply, return and vent lines. Looks like you are having fun lol! -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PingPong Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 This thread has the makings of permanent 'sticky' material. The photo quality is great, good luck with the teardown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Those are your fuel supply, return and vent lines. Looks like you are having fun lol! haha, ya i found that out today Pulled the top line and some fuel came squirting out, I'll update the thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 This thread has the makings of permanent 'sticky' material. The photo quality is great, good luck with the teardown. thanks, I'm using a camera that has no business in the garage, but it's proving to be great for documentation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 So I'm going to update the pictures here in a second, but I got down to the engine/tranny tonight. I'd like to pull just the engine if I can, however this is the first automatic tranny I've ever disconnected. All my jeeps are all manual like the good lord intended. I'm assuming i can just loosen the bolts connecting the engines to the bellhousing and pull the engine forward. Are there any tricks I should know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Is this an AT? if so something about undoing a bolt somewhere else you'll never be able to get the flywheel back on or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 haha, glad I asked then. It's definitely an AT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 ya, you have to take out the torque converter bolts before you split it. Yes there is. There is an access on top of the engine. Some can get the bolts with a long extension after removing the alternator, others remove the intake to get to it. The access is on the passenger side rear of the engine on top of it. Can't remember if there is a cover, but you should be able to tell once you dive in. Steve from another thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Gonna update this thread in a bit, as I've pretty much got the entire engine tore down. I've noticed a lot of the valve cover seals and other seals are using sealant as well as a gasket. Is this a particular sealant from the factory or do you think this was applied later? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Also so I need to get a oil pan gasket? The only ones online that I can find are cork and I'd like to go OEM if possible, I haven't taken the oil pan off yet and don't want to until I have to, has anyone replaced this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Ok added all my new pictures. Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 The sealant is Fujibond, equivalent sealant is gray permatex. Great pics man hope you get it running soon. I would have liked to have docd this like you did but I write manuals for a living so I'm tired of that shit lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 The rubber seals form the timing cover are also starting to go out. I can't seem to find a replacement for those anywhere, does anyone know a good place or am I gonna have to order them from the stealership? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Subarupartsforyou.com is where I got all mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Got it all back together now, rebuild was pretty much reversal of teardown so I didn't take too many pictures. However it runs really rough and shoots out white smoke out the back. So I checked the oil and sure enough trace amounts of water, so I guess I'm gonna have to pull the engine again and put new head gaskets on it. Does anyone have any experience with the head bolt procedure? Here's the procedure I used from the FSM and I was pretty careful in applying it... 2) Tighten cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (5) Tighten bolts ©, (D), (E) and (F) to 15 N·m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°. (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 i used it with no problems. what brand of head gaskets did you use? did you send the heads to the machine shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 ya the heads were cleaned and checked at the machine shop. I used OEM headgaskets from this guy http://www.ebay.com/sch/barnfindbernie/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeNathan Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 so I used 11044AA610 as the headgasket. There's so many posts from so many people all over the internet. Has anyone has any luck with this particular head gasket on the 992.5 EJ25D? It's the MLS OEM gasket so I was under the impression it would work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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