Park Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 97 Outback GT, 2.5 manual Car has almost 200k miles, replacement JDM motor has around 100k, I replaced the clutch kit(among other things) at this times, so it has around 60k on it. Known issue: head gasket leaks exhaust gases into radiator. I have a venting cap that I don't keep on as tight as it can, so it will vent gas into puke tank, and not overheat. Pay attention, and keep filled frequently. The past few days I've been getting some shaking, and it has been getting worse. The only code I'm getting is a Camshaft position sensor, and I replaced that Wednesday with a new one. Autozone reset it, but it comes back on. Sometimes it will flash on and off while I'm driving, but most of the time it is on continuously. While I'm driving down the highway with the cruise control set at 75, when it shudders, the speed will drop. The mpg has also dropped since this started. I'm used to 20-22 on the highway, and when I filled it today it was more like 18. Unless the gauge is playing with me, I expect it to be less than that when I fill it. I replaced the spark plugs yesterday (with a new set of NGK V Power, like I put in it sometime in the last year- they seem to have been normal when I took them out). There seemed to be some oil/dirt on the Fram TG air filter, but I blew it off and reinstalled it. It didn't seem to be very dirty other than the darkdirt on the edge of the yellow filter rows(surface). Looking at this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/97-legacy-gt-manual-transmission-shudder-225906.html?t=225906&highlight=shaking It seems to be suggesting I might also have "clutch chatter". My oil separator plate probably does have a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 assuming the cam sensor is working, i would check the wiring and the connector. what pxxxx code did you get by the way? if the cam sensor / signal is ''iffy'' that would explain everything. but i have to say, shaking and shudder while driving 75 is not very descriptive. it only does this at speed? not at idle? shaking and shuddering is only for the engine? not the drive train, or wheels? not in slow tight circles? what code did you get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Park Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 It will shake/shudder in pretty much any gear, although it is more noticeable at higher speeds. Going uphill (yes we have them in KS ) will cause it to lose power and slow down. It seems like the entire car is shaking, I know I can feel it in my seat while driving. I am occasionally getting more vibration than I am used to while idling at a stop, this seems to be a transfer from the engine, and I out of gear at the time. Changing the sensor has had no effect. It was more noticeable today because it is the first time I'd been on the highway besides for short in town trips. Sometimes I would go down the road for half a mile or more before I notice any vibration or loss of power. I'll get the code number tomorrow. I did not notice any defects in the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 are the engine mounts in decent shape? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Has it stalled or shut down at all? Check the main harness plug. A loose connection will cause similar symptoms. If it unplugs completely, the car will shutdown and no longer run since it is not receiving the CKPS signal. I know from experience. It's worth a shot at least. Is the engine loosing more coolant than "normal"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 11, 2014 I Donated Share Posted October 11, 2014 are the engine mounts in decent shape? flashing check engine light = severe misfire. Not a mount problem. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the crankshaft position sensor or the timing belt. Crankshaft Position Sensor Both the crankshaft and camshaft sensors work together and read from each other. If one is malfunctioning, the other can throw a code. Timing Belt On these cars if the timing belt breaks you will get a camshaft position sensor code. If the timing belt jumps a tooth or two you will have both the camshaft position sensor code and misfires. The misfiring will be worse under a load (IE going up hill). Also one thing to keep in mind that bad head gaskets can and will cause a misfire. Your flashing check engine light means one thing...and one thing only. A severe misfire. A flashing check engine light is basically your car saying "Shut me off right now because I'm misfiring so bad that I'm going to burn up my converter" -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 flashing check engine light = severe misfire. Not a mount problem. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the crankshaft position sensor or the timing belt. It was a later-than-normal night for me. I meant crankshaft sensor for me (I know I have a 2005, but most modern engines work the same). Definitely +1 on the continuously flashing CEL. You're likely down a path of engine damage, but it might be recoverable. On an older car, I almost always suspect wiring. The grounds are not the best on these cars, so trace where the ground should be and see if you need to add new cabling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Park Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 The codes are showing (now) for misfires on all 4 cylinders (301/302/303/304) as well as P0341, cam shaft position sensor. When I'd called my local Autozone yesterday to check on the warranty for my clutch kit, the guy said the kit I had listed wasn't supposed to be for my car... Today, I went to get the code numbers in an Autozone in Lawrence, and he confirmed that. He found out that they'd apparently sold me the clutch kit for a 1996 2.2(NU31248) rather than the 1997 2.5(NU31365) that I have. He said that the 2.2 hadn't been an option for my car. The dimensions for the 2 kits that were listed were identical, except for a slight weight difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Interesting. I don't think the clutch kit is related to this. Check your wiring. Sometimes small rodents will eat wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 The codes are showing (now) for misfires on all 4 cylinders (301/302/303/304) as well as P0341, cam shaft position sensor. When I'd called my local Autozone yesterday to check on the warranty for my clutch kit, the guy said the kit I had listed wasn't supposed to be for my car... Today, I went to get the code numbers in an Autozone in Lawrence, and he confirmed that. He found out that they'd apparently sold me the clutch kit for a 1996 2.2(NU31248) rather than the 1997 2.5(NU31365) that I have. He said that the 2.2 hadn't been an option for my car. The dimensions for the 2 kits that were listed were identical, except for a slight weight difference. wow, I'd be pissed if they gave me the wrong part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Park Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Yeah, I'm wondering how much difference there is... $70 or so in price. This manager said I'd only need to pay the difference between the two. I didn't think about it at the time, but maybe I should go back and look to see if I can see a difference. Maybe the bushings they come with are different. The ID are the same, obviously, since it has worked- but maybe the OD (or some other dimension) are different, with the 2.5 version being more robust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Your car: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_5/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_1/ What they gave you: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_4/manual_transmission/clutch/illustration_2/ Not that it's going to help at all This manager said I'd only need to pay the difference between the two. O rly? Shame on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 i wouldn't mess with it. there are lots of these cars from the late 90s that have had the engine swapped, ej22 - ej25. and lots of cars that have had the trans swapped. i don't know why the difference, but i doubt you can tell . and i would not go through the labor again unless i had to. but if i did, i sure as hell would not pay the extra $70. they should pay you for your trouble . and i agree, this has nothing to do with the trouble codes you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Park Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 assuming the cam sensor is working, i would check the wiring and the connector. what pxxxx code did you get by the way? if the cam sensor / signal is ''iffy'' that would explain everything. but i have to say, shaking and shudder while driving 75 is not very descriptive. it only does this at speed? not at idle? shaking and shuddering is only for the engine? not the drive train, or wheels? not in slow tight circles? what code did you get? There seems to be no change in the alignment, and I've had bad CV joints and hub bearings, so I know what those are like. MPG, now that I'm getting all 4 cylinders misfiring is down to about 12mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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