Taylormclean Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hello everyone, I thought I would bring up my problem as the people from subaruoutback said to do. My problem is when I have a misfire code but, when idling, in boost, normal driving there is no code. I have changed the plugs, swapped coil packs and have done a compression test (135 for each cylinder), changed the k and n filter for a paper filter. So my question is, what should I do next? Get the injectors cleaned? Or something else? The car has 136,000 miles, bone stock. I have had this car for approx. 2 weeks. The car holds a constant 800 rpm at idle. Thanks for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Can you clarify? This: Hello everyone, I thought I would bring up my problem as the people from subaruoutback said to do. My problem is when I have a misfire code but, when idling, in boost, normal driving there is no code. I have changed the plugs, swapped coil packs and have done a compression test (135 for each cylinder), changed the k and n filter for a paper filter. So my question is, what should I do next? Get the injectors cleaned? Or something else? The car has 136,000 miles, bone stock. I have had this car for approx. 2 weeks. The car holds a constant 800 rpm at idle. Thanks for your time. . . . Doesn't make sense. When does the code appear? When does it go away? Have you reset your ECU, as well? What kind of gas are you putting in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Gas: 92 octane Chevron or Shell. Occurence: When I start my car in the morning is the only time. Maybe by not priming the fuel pump will do that? And it never goes away, I delete code with a code reader tool. Should I reset the ecu when I reset the code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AF_3C2 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 I am in the same boat, but with cylinder 2. If this is happening only when cold, there is a chance it is the upper intake manifold gaskets- in the best case scenario. I take it when you swapped the coils the problem did not follow? From my research on this site, it could be injectors (I put some injector cleaner in mine, didn't make much of a difference), burned valves (have a leakdown test done to help narrow the issue down), cracked ringland (think your problems would be worse with this), or the issues you already checked with plugs. Do you feel/hear the misfire when you cold start? Mine is noticeable and can be felt through the drive train, gets better when warm, but will still mis-fire occasionally on idle waiting on stoplights. It seems the only time I don't get the mis-fire is when I am stopping after a long highway cruise, and even then, the mis-fire comes back if I am idling for longer than 30 seconds. Good luck..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 I have put injector cleaner in as well, I saw no results. My dad and friends have told me to put in BG 44K injector cleaner, and I have done research on that and people said that they said it ran better but after that tank of gas it went right back to normal when they filled up. I am not using a ton of oil, although when I drive the car sometimes I get a burnt smell at idle with either the heat or ac on). I notice the only time I get a true feeling misfire is when I start the car with out the fuel pump primed. Perhaps its a fuel pressure issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Have the o-rings at the intake to TGV's been replaced with the new orange ones. May be there's a air leak in #4 runner sometimes. Swap injector 4 with 2 and see if the code follows. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 How does your turbo inlet hose look? When mine was starting to tear, it caused a cyl 3 misfire. And like Max said, try swapping the injector to another cylinder. It's a much more conclusive test than using fuel injector cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 My turbo inlet hose is cracked at the top and oily. I will swap the injectors and see if they code follows. Ill check the o rings today at some point. Gotta love being on leave for 14 days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 My turbo inlet hose is cracked at the top and oily. I will swap the injectors and see if they code follows. Ill check the o rings today at some point. Gotta love being on leave for 14 days There's your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 It's a common high mileage/old age problem too. May as well go with an aftermarket silicone inlet. The ECU injects fuel based on the MAF reading. A crack in that hose (downstream of MAF) means you're taking in unmetered air, which means you'll be running lean. Running lean can cause other problems like burnt valves and cracked piston rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Boom, sweet. Well I get paid friday so I shall order a new one. I read about it, I think I will end up getting a silicone one as I plan on down the road building my own engine for this so I can just transfer the parts over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 I called my local subaru dealership and they are charging $120 for the turbo inlet tube. Is there any where else that I can get cheaper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AF_3C2 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Unfourtanately, no....You can try the online vendors here on site and might be able to save a bit, but aftermarket intlet tubes start around $220. It looks like you are looking for the OEM piece, and as a word of caution, all these tubes are a PITA to install..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Unfourtanately, no....You can try the online vendors here on site and might be able to save a bit, but aftermarket intlet tubes start around $220. It looks like you are looking for the OEM piece, and as a word of caution, all these tubes are a PITA to install..... FWIW, I picked up my used Perrin inlet for $175, IIRC. (It was literally six mos ago) You're better off with a silicone piece over the OEM bit, it'll last longer. That said, I highly recommend you head over to Amazon and start shopping for car parts. If you have prime, it's even better. You could probably get away with using a standard STI silicone inlet. Name brand doesn't necessarily matter. Can be had for $100 or less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Damn, looks like I'll be saving my pennies to able to get a Perrin one. Seems like in the long run a silicone one will benefit me the most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Check with 'm sprank" he is, http://www.infamousperformance.net buy your parts from him, he helps out here a lot for free. You'll get great customer service and lots of subaru knowledge all for free. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 In the mean time, I swapped injectors in the mean time while I wait to save monies I swapped injectors and wow that was easy-ish. The only hard time I had was getting the injector in the #4 cylinder but with a little help with some chapstick it went in without a problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Well, I swapped the 2 and 4 injectors and haven't had the code come back, so hopefully it never does! Thanks everyone for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Other things to do is get a can of MAF cleaner and clean the MAF sensor. There was a thread here about injector cleaner, a can of that in the tank wouldn't hurt either. https://www.google.com/search?q=B-12+injector+cleaner&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us%3AIE-ContextMenu&oe=&safe=active&gws_rd=ssl&oq=&gs_l= 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 I've ran two tanks of fuel cleaner and cleaned the maf the first couple days I had it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Stock is fine... Lasted me 120K... I have the perrin and went back to stock... It's a pig to get in there on the 05. Also if the manifold gaskets have not been replaced do that too. Your also in the zone for a Oil Control Valve Solenoid change on both heads. Search OCVS. I was over at the outback forum for a while and once things got harry with my XT I needed to poke around here to get the skinny... Welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 Already went to change the intake o rings and they were already replaced with the orange higher temp ones. And the ocvs I took out and inspected. The look good, no build up anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormclean Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 The only thing I am trying to figure out is, when I am in around 23-3000 rpm and give a little gas it likes to hesitate and get a little jerky. Happens in town, and on the freeway when I give it a little gas to get up to speed. When I give it more gas and am in boost it pulls great, no hesitation or jerky motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AF_3C2 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 There is a 2800 rpm hesitation in our cars- and I think it is all in the tune. Getting a pro-tune should take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 THere are so many things that can cause some weird issues. I'm even forgetting symptoms and fixes these days... Best advice I received here is check all the vacuum lines. Ensure they are solid, connected and tye wrapped or glued into place. Check your PCV is functional. Higher mileage: Your turbo may be suspect. Read up on the turbo oil feed banjo bolt filter. Cat in the up pipe is always called out as an issue but I have never heard of one blowing up their turbo. OCVS replacement. Cam sensor Updated parts would be any of the oring seals on the intake aside from the TMIC to turbo. Intake manifold, Throttle body I know were updated in design. Clean your Throttle body as well.... Search... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.