ShermanLGT Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Alright guys this will be a rather long one but crucial to the explanation of the problem, please read it and help if you can, anything will be great. So i bought my 2005 LGT 5MT knowing it needed a clutch job (felt like clutch had slippage) and driveshaft replacement due to what felt like a vibration. Finally took my car to a local shop here in Miami run by two major subaru guys, im not sure as to their certifications or anything like that but ive been referred by several people in the local subaru clubs and heard nothing but good things about these guys. Anyway, i had the clutch replaced with an Exedy FJK1001 clutch kit and ACT streetlite flywheel. the Throw out bearing on the system is an aftermarket oversized bearing due to what the mechanic said was a sleeve conversion installed by one of the previous owners. i had also purchased a used Drive shaft from LKQ via Automotix, when the mechanic came to install it he said it was in a rougher shape than my current one and elected to keep my original on there. now we get to the disturbing part, FIRST OF ALL, THE CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL THAT WERE TAKEN OFF APPEARED TO BE A STOCK N/A FLYWHEEL AND A SPEC N/A CLUTCH. NOW WITH MY NEW CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL AND THE ORIGINAL SHAFT I HAVE WHAT FEELS LIKE INSANE SLIPPAGE IN 1ST AND 2ND GEARS UP TO ABOUT 35 MPH. The mechanic claims that it is caused by the joint in the 2 pc driveshaft being worn out and not locking up. basically my car is in a worse driving condition than it was before the clutch job. is the shaft theory a possibility at all? could it be something else? any help would be greatly appreciated. PLEASE HELP ME! Thank you for dedicating your time and reading it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 oh also forgot to mention that while the removed clutch and flywheel had hot spots on them, the clutch had a good amount of meat on it still!! also, when driving the car there is a metallic grinding noise which seems to either be muffled by the road noise at higher speed or just go away altogether. as far as "Dont drive your car comments go" i have brought my car from the mechanic and it is currently sitting on my driveway and will not be moved until i have an eligible drive shaft replacement or a solution for this situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 the metallic noise seems to come from the driveshaft area but more towards the center/front rather than the rear of the car, and the gears shift smoothly with no grinding or such, there is also no burning clutch smell. what did happen when i tested it with my friend who's a mechanic in training, was that i was in 2nd gear and appeared to be slipping, i chose to carry on with the gear and give it more gas, at about 5K RPM and roughly 20-25 MPH the car suddenly seemed to catch and there was slight wheelspin and the slipping sensation went away. important to note that the slippage doesnt appear in higher speeds (id say anything above 45-50 MPH) it give me the most trouble at the initial movement in 1st gear and 2nd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 8, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 8, 2014 Well, you shouldn't be running the car hard on a new clutch. A brand new clutch won't have good holding power until it's broken in. Replace the driveshaft since you KNOW that's bad and then see what's up. You should 500 very easy miles on the new clutch before testing holding capacity. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 I remember when I had my clutch replaced there was a lot of shuddering during engagement for the first 1,000 miles or so while the clutch broke in. I wonder if that's what you're feeling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 A slipping clutch will generally manifest in higher gears first. . . so you'd notice slipping in 3/4/5 before you'd notice it in 1/2. If you're not smelling burnt clutch and you're hearing a metallic noise coming from the carrier bearing/joint of the propshaft, i'd agree with the mechanic's assessment of a failed joint. If that's the case, you're also being a total dick to your center diff/viscous coupling every time it slips. Fix it before you blow that sucka out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 what im feeling is pretty much complete slippage in 1st and 2nd gears, i definitely get the car moving, but were talking like 5K RPM in 1st gear doing less than 10 MPH. i am definitely looking to replace the shaft, no question regarding that, but i just dont feel like thats all that logical that it would be the issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 A slipping clutch will generally manifest in higher gears first. . . so you'd notice slipping in 3/4/5 before you'd notice it in 1/2. If you're not smelling burnt clutch and you're hearing a metallic noise coming from the carrier bearing/joint of the propshaft, i'd agree with the mechanic's assessment of a failed joint. If that's the case, you're also being a total dick to your center diff/viscous coupling every time it slips. Fix it before you blow that sucka out. well im not driving the car ATM until i have a replacement shaft. ive driven it home from the mechanic and it is now at its resting place on my driveway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 It's all about torque multiplication. in low gears (1/2), the most torque the clutch will ever see is the max the engine can produce (about 250 ft/lbs on a stock engine). The drive shaft can see up to 1.5x that (3x for gear multiplication x .50 torque split from center diff). . . as the transmission is reducing speed but increasing torque by a factor of whatever gear you're in. The front and rear diffs reduce speed even farther, and thus multiply the torque yet again, so the axles may see 12x engine torque (divided by 4 axles, however---so 3x engine torque per). As you get into higher gears, the effect is the opposite. The drive shaft will only see 50% engine torque in 4th gear, and less than that in 5th. Axles will be down to 4x engine torque. The clutch, however, will still be tasked with managing 100% of engine torque, which is seen a lot more often in 5th gear than in 1st. So yes, if you have a driveshaft or axle problem, you'll notice it in low gears. If you have a clutch problem, you'll notice it in high gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 well first of all, thank you, it appears the two of you guys are the first ive come across in the forums here that werent complete dickwads and told me to screw off, and second off, with this explanation in mind it appears that it indeed could be the issue, i will be receiving pictures of the eligible replacement from LKQ on monday so i will make my mind up in regards to them then, either way im looking for another option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gear_monkey Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 I had to replace my propeller shaft on my 5EAT. These guys are absolutely fantastic folks to deal with and you won't find better prices. http://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/Subaru_Legacy_Driveshaft.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 The current thought is not to buy a 100% new axle, get a reman. About 50% of the 100% new axles are not the correct length, they will begin to make a clicking sound when making a left turn, I have a reman in my left front. I guess you've figured to start there. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 8, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 8, 2014 Sorry Byron. Nobody is talking about axles here "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 BarManBean any chance you could measure the length of your driveshaft and post the size please? ill do a comparison and see if its far off from where im at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 To add to the confusion, if you really feel your clutch is slipping put it in 4th or 5th gear and try to engage the the wheels, if the car stalls the clutch is holding fine. If it doesn't immediately stall there may be some slippage, but as barmanbean et al.. have said, it's normal to have some slippage in the beginning and the first 500 miles should be easy miles. I'm not sure if trying to engage the wheels in a higher gear is good for the new clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Sorry Byron. Nobody is talking about axles here Oh, he's talking about the propeller shaft. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 9, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 9, 2014 BarManBean any chance you could measure the length of your driveshaft and post the size please? ill do a comparison and see if its far off from where im at I shrink-wrapped the whole thing with rags on each end to protect it a while back. Not going to undo that so I won't be able to get an accurate measurement, sorry. That said, it's the same exact length as a 2005-2009 Legacy GT / OBXT with 5mt transmission. Only difference is spacers built into the carrier bearing I believe. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 hmmm.... ok let me see what the deal is with the LKQ warranty replacement and ill try and give you an answer tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 it doesnt/didnt have any rust at the time you packed it? how are the rubber fittings? i could really really use some pics before buying it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 10, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 10, 2014 it doesnt/didnt have any rust at the time you packed it? how are the rubber fittings? i could really really use some pics before buying it Here's my FS thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-va-driveshaft-5mt-70k-miles-219219.html I'm just a guy here on the forum, but seriously I may as well be a shop when it comes to selling parts. If you buy the DS from me and have any issue I'll most likely take it back. Please see iTrader rating No rust, car didn't see salt until this previous winter and I had pulled the DS by then. Rubber fittings? Where? Whatever they are I'm sure they're fine. Only "negative" on it is the scratching shown in the pics that resulted from temporary contact with a heatshield after I replaced my clutch. Cosmetic only, you could paint it with some rustoleum or similar if you're worried about it. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShermanLGT Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 alright ill get back to you tomorrow about it. if youre willing to take it back in case its not working right then its already a great start for me. i will be settling things with LKQ tomorrow so ill have an answer for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 ShermanLGT, you can trust BMB, he's been around here and is very well known. He's not going to screw you over. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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