JmP6889928 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 OK...anyone know of a resistor mod that can be used on these damn things to trick the ECM into thinking that the motors are there? I think that by having them appear to be there to the ECM, the tune will be more consistent than by totally eliminating them. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Sure, take a volt ohm meter, read the resistance across the pair of wires that actuates the motors, get a reading then stick in a comparable resistor across those wires. Then look up the range specs for the "sensor" wire that the ecu's looking for and put in an appropriate resistor. Problem is when the ecu commands open, closed or anywhere in between it's going to look for a range of resistance that correlates with the position and if the resistor on the "sensor" wire is wrong it will know. 10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned. SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC. Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP 1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 Yeah....I know all that....<sigh>....laziness was abounding and I was hoping someone had already done it..LOL. I just hate turning any possible CEL off because there are so many things related to all of the CEL codes that when you turn something off you invariably affect something else and I'm trying to avoid that. I may mount the motors on the ends of my deletes and leave them plugged in and call it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Problem is you've got the motor on one end of the TGV housing and the position sensor on the other. . . in order to effectively fool the ECU you'd have to leave the motor mechanically connected to the position sensor. You could just remove the vane and leave the spindle installed. Won't flow as good as a true "delete", but would solve your issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 If you have an AP can't you just turn off those specific cel codes? 10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned. SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC. Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP 1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 I'm on open source tune and I don't have the cabling necessary. I'll figure something out...dammit...LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 7, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 7, 2014 Cryo turned of the tgv delete cel in my tune. Not sure why you can't do the same...? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 I can.....I just rather have everything in the ECM at least believing that everything else is working as it should because there are decisions it makes based on all things working as they should. Why do we do the resistor mod on the EGT? To trick the ECM into thinking that the EGT is optimal at all times. I'm sure it could just be shut off, but why don't we do it? Because I'm sure it affects other aspects of the tune. I'll most likely just end up shutting it off but I would rather make it think it's as it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 7, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 7, 2014 What about just detaching the motor / sensor from the stock TGV assemblies and plugging them back in to the connectors? Would that even work? Or did you say that you've actually removed the connectors from the wiring harness? Problem i see, is why would you want to setup the car to believe that something is working as expected when it's actually not working? Seems to me that that is giving the car misinformation that could cause an issue. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 ^ Uppipe cat delete resistor mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 7, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 7, 2014 ^ Uppipe cat delete resistor mod. Quite different from TGVs. EGT sensor is just there to prevent the up pipe cat from overheating and failing. When you remove the cat it really serves no purpose. Different case when you are dealing with the TGVs and removing something that modulates air flow dynamically. If the car still *thinks* it can and is adjusting air flow, I would think it would get fairly confused when it tries to do that and gets zero result / change because the TGVs are actually deleted. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 What about just detaching the motor / sensor from the stock TGV assemblies and plugging them back in to the connectors? Would that even work? Or did you say that you've actually removed the connectors from the wiring harness? Problem i see, is why would you want to setup the car to believe that something is working as expected when it's actually not working? Seems to me that that is giving the car misinformation that could cause an issue. I may do that just to get the car to my tuner. I have to go about 50 miles and I think I'm going to trailer it, depending on what I can come up with. I'm changing a lot of things and I really need to have everything looked at and realigned before I do much of anything with it. Once I get it started, then I'll have a better idea with my scanner as to where I'm at. I can do realtime scanning and read fuel trims and AFR and check any possible codes that may come up-I just can't really adjust anything. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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