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Rotors warped: under warranty?


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I am pretty sure of the answer that I'm going to get but I'll ask anyway...

 

I've got about 5k miles on my LGT and the steering wheel vibrates when I brake (intensity of vibration increases with increased pressure on the brake pedal). It has gotten worse since I started noticing it about a month ago. I'm pretty sure that this isn't a covered under warranty, but there's no harm in asking I guess. How much am I looking at for a fix?

The Dude - Two inches and counting...:lol:
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yea, you're entitled to get this fixed under the warranty (even though it's a wear-tear issue). It's brake pads that are under the real wear and tear. You can fight your case about it because you can bring up the intervals of maintenance schedule and it's not like you ate of all of the brake pads anyways (because that would be your logical explanation of you not beating on the brakes, if it was, ALL the brake components would be beaten up, from the pads to the rotors and even the brake fluid would be boiled out all in a matter of 5,000 miles).

 

 

Keefe

Keefe
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Mine is doing the same thing, going to the dealer Friday morning to get an oil change and have them look at it.

 

Can't wait for them to blame after market wheels not being balanced. FYI, had them rebalanced and recentered a week ago.

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Ive had my FRONT and BACK rotors resurfaced and I STILL have the problem (2000 miles)!:mad: Iam looking for help and satisfaction from SOA considering Ive had this problem from day one !

 

well, i am stumped from that then, unless you glazed the stock pads with some incredible stomp-style braking.

 

Keefe

Keefe
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Yeah im not sure but the car had 80 or so miles on it when i picked it up. I haven't driven the car with out this problem. Keep in mind that it's only when driving over 60mph and then braking.Someone suggested a problem with the ABS maybe, got any thoughts on that ?

Denial is your best friend

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I complained about excessive brake squeal and hinted at the anti-squeal brake goop, but the mechanic resurfaced both the front(2nd time) and rears(1st time).

 

My service advisor told me about that and I diplomatically requested new front rotors, so he said he'll check with his service area/district rep and see if they can do that. He understood where I was coming from, since they've removed 1/2-3/4 the life of the front rotor by turning it twice when I'm about 3k away from the end of my basic warranty @ 36k.

 

If they have to turn then more than once, request/demand new rotors.

I keed I keeed
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Can someone set up a poll on this subject?

 

I'm curious as to the reason why so many of our cars were built with out-of-spec rotors. Mine (front) were bad from day-one. They've been cut once, and I didn't debate the issue, but if Subaru knowingly shipped a ton of cars with bad parts then they should give us new parts rather than refurbishing the bad ones.

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Can someone set up a poll on this subject?

 

I'm curious as to the reason why so many of our cars were built with out-of-spec rotors. Mine (front) were bad from day-one. They've been cut once, and I didn't debate the issue, but if Subaru knowingly shipped a ton of cars with bad parts then they should give us new parts rather than refurbishing the bad ones.

 

Doubtful they were built with faulty rotors, more than likely the "warpage" type sensation you are feeling if from the car sitting on a lot in the same spot for a long time. This allows deposits from the brake pads to become impregnated into the rotors. Usually machining the rotors will resolve it.

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Doubtful they were built with faulty rotors, more than likely the "warpage" type sensation you are feeling if from the car sitting on a lot in the same spot for a long time. This allows deposits from the brake pads to become impregnated into the rotors. Usually machining the rotors will resolve it.

 

The work order for my brakes said the were "out of spec" = warped???

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mele63 - The pad material doesn't jive with our aggresive driving/braking. You have to adapt your braking style to reduce pad deposits/hotspotting/scoring on the rotors.

 

I noted that I had brake squeal at low speeds and suggested they look at the backing plate or change the pads. But I still don't know why the dealer had to turn my front rotors again. They where working fine since that first time they were turned 3000 miles ago, unless the f$cking pads messed glazed the rotors. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh :mad:

I keed I keeed
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I noted that I had brake squeal at low speeds and suggested they look at the backing plate or change the pads. But I still don't know why the dealer had to turn my front rotors again. They where working fine since that first time they were turned 3000 miles ago, unless the f$cking pads messed glazed the rotors. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh :mad:

 

most dealerships will turn the rotors when the customer complains of a brake noise. depending on the amount of pad left they will either sand it flat or replace the pad. in either case its best to have a fresh surface to start with, since rotors could have gotten a flat spot or worn uneven. just becareful how much they turn your rotors and how many passes they do and if they put the finishing pass/non directional finish on them. if the rotor is to thin they wont get rid of the heat, and your break noise will be back again.

Work hard. Play even harder.

 

My Garage

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Update:

 

Got the car back today and the squeal is gone. They turned both the front and rear and scuffed the pads. My service advisor told me that the rotors were glazed, which caused the squeal and that they only turned the rotors a tiny bit to get rid of the glazing.

 

Edit: What causes glazing and how can it avoided?

I keed I keeed
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I have noticed my wheel also shudders when braking around 60-70mph on the highway. I will be sure to bring this to the attention of dealer next time I'm in. I figured it was probably just the rotors that needed to be turned or something along those lines. I have had the issue on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee every 30k or so...but I could also feel the problem when gradually braking coming up to a stop in addition to high speed wheel shudder. I only have 10k on my LGT currently...but hopefully the dealer will take care of it, like some of you guys have stated.
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shouldnt be a problem blaze. although it really depends on the amount of "dmg" done to the rotors/pads. sometimes its just to be to be be fixed by turning the rotors, especially if they have been turned once allrdy. in the end it comes down to the tech working on the car on how well the rotor turning comes out. i had a STS the other day that wore though a full set of front pads in 19k miles and warped the rotors. luckily the rotors were new (05 model car) so i had plenty of lee way to turn the rotors. took almost the full amount to get them flat and smooth, 1/2 the rotor was a low spot id almost swear that the owner did burn outs or auto xed, no pad should go in 19k miles and the tire was covered in brake dust, but the owner didnt care gm covers it till 24k. so they got it all for free.

 

best bet for pulsations or noise is to take it to a dealership so they can do the work. brakes is one thing you dont wanna 1/2 ass.

Work hard. Play even harder.

 

My Garage

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Edit: What causes glazing and how can it avoided?

 

From Hawk Performance:

Q: How can I tell by looking at the brake pad if my pads have been glazed over?

A: When a brake pad glazes over the friction surface develops a cloudy or glassy looking coating. It is possible to remove the glazed surface by using sand paper to grind away the damaged layer and expose a new layer that will require the proper bedding procedure.

 

Definition:

Glazing is when the pads and/or rotors become too hot and when they cool down, they become like ice (think of icing on a cake). The surface areas are smoothed out and it's like rubbing two pieces of ice (lower coefficent of friction) when it should be where the pads rough surface to bite down on the rotor. Glazing is another pottery term (after all, we are using semi-metallic or partial ceramic brake pads) that refer to adding a layer of goo before heating them up.. in your case, brake dust build up that is re-heated and gunked on the contact surfaces, causing your squealing and such.

 

 

Solution:

Clean your wheels more often AFTER a cool down and get less dusty pads. If you want to de-glaze your own pads and you need a quick fix, take off the pads, rub the surfaces of the pads on concrete a few times, and reinstall the pads.

 

 

Keefe

Keefe
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  • 1 month later...
I'm taking my car next week for the same problem, the only thing is I have JDM bilsteins and mentioned that to the service rep and he told me right away that the warranty is void :mad:, so I asked him what is the relation of my rotors being warped with the Bilstein struts:confused:
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