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Airbag light on after steering rack bushing install???


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I changed my steering rack bushings yesterday following whiteline's instructions and had a little trouble centering the wheel when reattaching the steering knuckle. After putting everything back together, the wheel was about 1/8 turn off center and the airbag light was on. Today, I took out the airbag and had a look at all of the clip connectors which appeared to be fine. I also took the opportunity to center the steering wheel, but was unable to address the airbag light. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Thanks so much-

 

Robmat

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Roll Connector possibly? If you hear a crunching sound when turning the wheel back and forth that is a possibility. I can't think of any wiring or sensors that would get damaged when doing PS rack bushings, but I did mine with the motor out of the car.

 

So the Light came on even before you pulled the steering wheel right?

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I believe the wheel may have turned while unattached from the knuckle....

 

I only noticed the airbag light after I was finished with the install..

 

I'll check the overhead light...

 

And, I centered the wheels, then removed and replaced the wheel.....it was one notch off. Have I really screwed something up by doing it this way? Yikes!?!?

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And, is there a way to check the clock spring/roll connector?

 

I don't know how to check (yet) its integrity. But in any case, you know that to physically inspect it, you'd have to pull the steering wheel once again.

 

I remember two weeks ago, when I swapped steering wheels, I was very careful with that clock spring not to make it spin. Not saying it is bad to have it spin but you know...

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I didn't hear any crunching, but followed the printed instructions on what I assume is the clock spring....it stated to turn the spring 3.25 turns from full right. I don't mind having to take the wheel off again, I just want it to be right.

 

 

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Actually, re-reading your OP, it sounds like the light came on BEFORE you took the steering wheel off. Soooo, you may have bumped one of those yellow airbag wires somewhere in the engine bay? :confused:

 

I felt that way too upon reading it but his other post alluded to him not noticing until he was done with all the work.

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The light did come on before I removed the wheel, but I believe the wheel may have moved while the steering knuckle was disconnected from the rack...the light came on after that and before actually removing the wheel.

 

 

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That's about what I was thinking....gut feeling anyway. I'll have to start checking wires then... This better not get too pricey, lol.

 

Love that avatar btw. teahupoo?

 

 

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And, I centered the wheels, then removed and replaced the wheel.....it was one notch off. Have I really screwed something up by doing it this way? Yikes!?!?

 

It was a 'notch' off because you physically moved the steering rack when you loosened it to install the bushings. It's not the end of the world, just not the correct way to do it; getting an alignment is.

 

Now you'll have 1 notch worth of degree offset built into your steering column, so your steering wheel will have it's normal turn amount + some in one direction, and it's normal turn amount - some in the other.

 

1 notch isn't a lot, but it is some.

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I'd also add that you could go to the dealer and they would use their $15k tool to read the airbag code. But it costs ~100$ just to check the code. I had to do that 4 years ago to replace the clockspring, seatbelt tensioners and the airbag 'ecu'. :mad:
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It was a 'notch' off because you physically moved the steering rack when you loosened it to install the bushings. It's not the end of the world, just not the correct way to do it; getting an alignment is.

 

Now you'll have 1 notch worth of degree offset built into your steering column, so your steering wheel will have it's normal turn amount + some in one direction, and it's normal turn amount - some in the other.

 

1 notch isn't a lot, but it is some.

 

I disagree with this statement, there are no steering stops in the column, they are in the rack.

 

 

The most important things are:

 

  1. That the Clock Spring was centered when installed
  2. The steering wheel was centered when connected to clock spring
  3. The Wheels were centered when 1 & 2 were installed.

You can take the universal joint off and orient it at any partial rotation and not affect anything. The important measurement is the length of tie rods, which you didn't change.

 

 

For example, lets say you did the install, but when you put everything back together, the wheel was 30* to the left when the car tracked straight. You haven't done anything to affect alignment, i.e. change tierod lengths, but rather reconnected the steering shaft at the wrong angle. There is no harm at all in pulling the wheel and re centering it to correct the problem. The proper way to recenter would be to loosen the Universal joint and recenter there to keep the steering column centered but as far as I know there are no centering indicators on the column, so it shouldn't matter.

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Xt: yup, I surf! Hoping to get in some this weekend! Thanks for those videos! I'll check them out and see if I can get it right.

 

12: so will an alignment clear that up then? I'll be replacing struts, springs, and too hats soon and will be doing an alignment shortly thereafter.

 

 

 

 

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