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Subaru's view on warming up the engine on cold starts


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I wonder if that is truly subaru's take on the subject, or if it's just that particular dealerships opinion. I agree you don't need to let your car sit and warm up for an extended period of time, but I disagree that you should just immediately jump in and start going when the engine is cold. Letting the car idle for 30 seconds to a minute when it's really cold out (under 20f or so) is the way to go in my opinion, followed by gentle driving until the car warms up.

 

http://www.nissanofgreensboronews.com/blog/index.php/should-you-let-your-car-warm-up-before-driving-it-on-a-cold-morning-2/

 

http://news.dchtoyotaofoxnard.com/blog/?p=147

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I don't buy it. I will say though, that I've owned a lot of cars, three of them were Subarus. Nothing I've ever owned, regardless of engine type or size, has warmed up as fast as any of my Subies. Even when it's well below freezing out, hit the key and you have heat about as fast as it takes to pull out of the driveway, and fully warmed up on the gauge a quarter mile from home. It's entirely possible, that said, that this theory is sound for Subarus... but I wouldn't assume it's safe for anything else, no matter how many "facts" are thrown at me.
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Never heard of Ken Ham, but I've just seen too many facts to the contrary over decades of working on cars, talking to engine builders and mechanics, etc. People love to say "you can't argue with the facts", and in a perfect world that would be true. But in this world, people can and do, with facts of their own. There are as many facts as there are viewpoints, and most of the people arguing them don't actually know enough about what they're talking about to tell fact from fiction.
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To me, it's pretty clear and logical what you should do if the oil pump isn't creating the necessary psi at idle on a cold engine. I let the car idle from 15 seconds to 2 minutes depending on what i'm doing before i drive.

 

Logically it makes sense to get some load on the engine to get the pressure up and oil flowing through the engine. Obviously, how you drive it when it's cold will dictate the wear and tear.

Any person with a brain should know to not exceed 2500-3500 RPM and excessive load when driving a car that has been sitting overnight.

 

Regarding subies being a fast car to warm up, i completely agree with it. My LGT warms up so fast, it's crazy. On a 15 degree day, my car is blowing heat within 1-2 minutes.

My temp gauge is usually rising within 3-5. People are shocked at how fast my car is able to warm up it's engine/cabin.

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Never heard of Ken Ham, but I've just seen too many facts to the contrary over decades of working on cars

 

The creation museum guy who debated Bill Nye on the earth only being 6,000 years old...no matter how many new facts have come up to the contrary.

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Ah. There's always new facts. Once upon a time the fact was that the earth was flat and we were the center of the universe. I suppose it should be obvious now that it isn't and we aren't, but who knows how hilarious our facts will seem in another few centuries. Or years. Or hours...
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To me, it's pretty clear and logical what you should do if the oil pump isn't creating the necessary psi at idle on a cold engine. I let the car idle from 15 seconds to 2 minutes depending on what i'm doing before i drive.

 

Logically it makes sense to get some load on the engine to get the pressure up and oil flowing through the engine. Obviously, how you drive it when it's cold will dictate the wear and tear.

Any person with a brain should know to not exceed 2500-3500 RPM and excessive load when driving a car that has been sitting overnight.

 

Regarding subies being a fast car to warm up, i completely agree with it. My LGT warms up so fast, it's crazy. On a 15 degree day, my car is blowing heat within 1-2 minutes.

My temp gauge is usually rising within 3-5. People are shocked at how fast my car is able to warm up it's engine/cabin.

 

Unfortunately most people do not use their brain! :lol:

Actually the oil pressure at idle with cold oil is much higher. My car always amazed me how fast it warmed up. However idling it does take quite a while. There are some nano lubricants that claim to hold a film on everything to help with dry starts. Problem is there are so many out there I have no idea which is snake oil and which actually work.

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Ah. There's always new facts. Once upon a time the fact was that the earth was flat and we were the center of the universe. I suppose it should be obvious now that it isn't and we aren't, but who knows how hilarious our facts will seem in another few centuries. Or years. Or hours...

 

Yeah but they don't just change willy-nilly. They change as we are better able to test and evaluate to explain what is really going on. Thus building our knowledge, holding on to old explanations for essentially sentimental reasons is silly.

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And seeing engines fail early under the same conditions for decades is coincidence?

 

Just playing the devil's advocate here, I don't really have a stance. Moderation in everything, I say. I've been hearing for years about people breaking in new engines at redline and never having issues. Doesn't mean I'm going to try it, too many have met with calamity. The truth is, there is no one size fits all answer to the question. Even in today's super precision world, every engine is still different. That's right off the line... then they get used by different people and maintained at different standards with different products. Like everything in life, it's a case by case situation and what worked for me may be blow up in your face. There is an ideal scenario for each and every one, and I highly doubt most people know theirs. There is an ideal temperature at which every engine (and transmission, etc) is fully functional, safely functional, and destructively functional. And depending on any number of variable factors, what seems like a willy nilly collection of opinions is actually just a whole bunch of fingerprints, no two alike. This is evidenced in the fact that right here in this topic some of us hit the key and make heat in seconds while others, allegedly, at the same starting temperature take "forever". Rather ambiguous, but far from a suspicious claim in my experience.

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The only "one size fits all" is to account for the oil being picked up out of the pan and fully circulated.

You can turn off the radio and simply listen for it. For some the engine just seems to quiet down and for others there is audible lifter knock that disappears.

 

Either way, let it circulate (usually from 20 seconds to one minute depending on your oil type). Don't pay any attention to the water temp as it's useless at start up. Drive the first 1.5 miles or so under 3k rpm and by then the oil temp will be fully warm. Only when the oil temp is stable after fully warmed up can you drive it like you stole it. Actually, you can do whatever you like with YOUR car.

 

Cheers,

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I don't buy it. I will say though, that I've owned a lot of cars, three of them were Subarus. Nothing I've ever owned, regardless of engine type or size, has warmed up as fast as any of my Subies. Even when it's well below freezing out, hit the key and you have heat about as fast as it takes to pull out of the driveway, and fully warmed up on the gauge a quarter mile from home. It's entirely possible, that said, that this theory is sound for Subarus... but I wouldn't assume it's safe for anything else, no matter how many "facts" are thrown at me.

 

Agreed, my Subaru's warm up much faster then any other car that I've owned/driven. I think it might be due to the semi open deck design + long coolant channels. Part of the engine design basically.

 

I would have to disagree... my lgt takes forever to warm up. Actually longer than any car I've ever owned when its freezing out

 

Check your cooling system for air bubbles and bleed/flush it. Also check/replace your thermostat, if it's sticking open it will cause the car to warm up slowly.

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