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New 05 OBXT owner with numerous issues 1 week after purchase


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I recently purchased a 2005 outback XT limited with 79,000 miles. For a week, I was in love with it and thought I had made a great purchase. Then the check engine light came on and the cruise started to flash along with a rattling/whining coming from under the hood. Immediately, I pulled over and shut it off, took off the engine cover and saw that one of the vacuum lines had a large crack in it. I also noticed that the turbo appeared to be brand new; this came as a shock to me because I was assured by the dealer that no major work had been done to the car prior to purchase or even when i first test drove it. I hadn't noticed this when I first looked at the car a week earlier, as the engine was much dirtier then. I taped up the hose just to get me to the dealer to buy another. As I pulled out on the road and started the 100 yard trek to the dealer I noticed smoke coming out the back and the rattling/whining just getting worse so I pulled over and had her towed to the Subaru dealer. I called the dealer that I purchased the car from furious that I had only had the car a week and already it had left me stranded, they assured me that they would deal with it and everything would work out, this I did not believe. Days went on and I still hadn't heard from the dealer or mechanic when I got some info. from a friend who told me that this was not the first, second, but THIRD turbo that had blown in this car. I looked into it some and it was sure enough true. The dealer bought it with a blown turbo and had a local shop do the repair. Less than 1000 miles later that turbo fails, so the dealer brings it to the Subaru dealer for repairs. Then I bought the car, drove it less that 500 miles and boom she blows!

 

At this point I am about ready to hand the keys back to the dealer and get a refund. This whole experience makes me want to stay away from the XT models. It doesn't look like I'm the only one that’s had this experience. I am looking for some opinions; first off if the engine does end up being blown, Subaru has sad they would replace it along with the turbo and oil lines that they will be replaced regardless since the last one was under warranty. If this were true (I don’t see them replacing the engine) then I would have a new OBXT other than the 79k on the transmission. I love the car and if it were reliable I would keep it, problem is the dealer I bought it from and the Subaru dealer have both been shady through this whole process (not answering questions and dodgy answers to what if this fails… type questions). What do you think I should do?

 

1)Keep the car (pending all repairs are completed and it is verified multiple times that there is no contamination in the engine).

 

2)If I end up selling the car, then the question is what engine do I go with if I stick with the outback.

a. 2.5i

b. 2.5 XT

c. 3.0 R or 3.6 R (doubt 3.6 though probably too pricey)

 

If you answer, please state a year, model, and please don’t just don’t just put your choice, provide a reason why, possibly even pros and cons if you have the time. Also, if you have owned the car you choose or test driven it put that in your response too.

Thanks for any responses to my questions. Your help will make this buying process that much easier.

 

Thanks,

 

JB

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in your situation I would urge the dealership to replace the whole engine. Since this is another turbo that that particular car has already gone through with relatively low miles, there i a good chance that it's gonna need an engine sometime in the near future. Also urge them to remove the banjo bolt in the oil feed line.

 

As long as you're happy with everything else on the car (interior, exterior, handling, ect.) you'd basically have a like new car on your hands. At that point, I'd say that if you're happy with the price you paid, and they'll actually go through with replacing everything, I'd keep the car. That way you know exactly what you have on your hands.

 

 

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The turbos are likely failing due to a failure in the oiling system. I would imagine that by now at least one of the failed turbos has put some metal bits into the engine and the current block isn't long for this world.

 

If you can get Subaru to replace the entire motor and turbo, make sure that they replace the oil pan and oil cooler, and also that they address the oiling system--possibly changing out the OCVs and removing / replacing the banjo bolt filter. After that, enjoy your car with a brand new motor.

 

Beyond that, get whatever car you feel like. If you don't care about fast, 2.5i. If you care about fast, 3.0/3.6. If you care about fast and plan to mod / enjoy tinkering, go with the XT/GT.

 

Good luck.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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is what engine do I go with if If you answer, please state a year, model, and please don’t just don’t just put your choice, provide a reason why, possibly even pros and cons if you have the time. Also, if you have owned the car you choose or test driven it put that in your response too.

 

Thanks for any responses to my questions. Your help will make this buying process that much easier.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

 

JB

 

 

Turbos can be a pain on all cars not just Subarus if abused/poor oil used etc. having said that a new engine seems a sweet deal and you shouldn't have any more problems.

 

If you do decide to change then I can recommend the 3.0. I have a 2007 with 71000km on the clock which I've had for about a year. Apart from a cracked air housing box (which I think the dealer broke...) absolutely nothing has gone wrong with it and it gets tough punishment here in the Philippines - terrible roads, constant heat and humidity, flooding/monsoon rain etc! I'm very very happy so far.

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I know for a fact from an inside friend that knows the mechanic that lots of metal was found in the oil. I know that Subaru is going to try and just clean it out and give it back to me with a new turbo and oil lines/ banjo bolt. I would love to keep the car, definitely will if the engine gets replaced.
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I know for a fact from an inside friend that knows the mechanic that lots of metal was found in the oil. I know that Subaru is going to try and just clean it out and give it back to me with a new turbo and oil lines/ banjo bolt. I would love to keep the car, definitely will if the engine gets replaced.

 

Yeah, in that case you need a new motor. Plain and simple.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Is there anything you recommend me doing to push Subaru into replacing it? They were the last ones to do the turbo work before it blew on me. I know Subaru is replacing the turbo, oil lines, banjo filter, but engine that's a whole new ballgame there.
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Is there anything you recommend me doing to push Subaru into replacing it? They were the last ones to do the turbo work before it blew on me. I know Subaru is replacing the turbo, oil lines, banjo filter, but engine that's a whole new ballgame there.

 

Probably just keep being a squeeky wheel. Also explain that if they are warrantying the work, that continuing to replace your turbo and oil lines will quickly add up and end up costing more in the long run.

 

If there's metal in the pan / oil, the engine is fcuked man. They really don't have an option on the motor and neither do you. You need a new motor in the car or you need to walk away from it.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Yeah thats what I have been telling the dealer but they keep saying it will be fine and that they throughly cleaned it. I know that it is impossible to clean all the metal out. I just got the car back yesterday, the turbo and banjo filter was replaced. They did not replace the oil lines just flushed them which I thought was odd. I plan to drive it a couple days and drop the oil/filter and see what I find. They told me when i picked it up that there had been no metal, but I know they are a bunch of liars...
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I'm a little confused with your story. Did you buy it from one of those used car lots? I'm unsure of your state, but are sales final there or does buying from a dealer provide you like 5/10/30 days to return something? I'm assuming so since they haven't told you to get bent yet. I'm just confused how you're dealing with Subaru on this since you said the selling dealer took it to a Subaru dealership.

 

How did your friend find out that this is the third turbo on the car?

 

Personally, I wouldn't want any turbo car with a failed motor with anywhere close to the story you just told without a full overhaul.

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Kelvrick, I totally agree with you last statement but I may be screwed into this one. I bought it from a used car dealer who took it to subaru for maintenance. A turbo and w/e else they failed to mention was done. Then the car was give back to the dealer with a perfect rating. Around 500 miles after I bought it things starting making bad noises. Two weeks later they gave me the car back with a new turbo, banjo bolt filter, flushed oil lines, and a so called "extensive" cleaning to rid the engine of any metal. I know this doesn't work and the car ultimately needs a new engine... The dealer told me to take the car drive it for two weeks then if I wasn't satisfied or something else happened then it would be dealt with. Only thing that would suck is they told me if I choose to return it I loose well over $1000 on the title.
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What should I do when I get to my car on friday? Other than changing the oil and checking all the lines; what should I look for? I wish they would have just swapped my engine like it needed... Getting really angry over this
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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to hear about your issues. I've had a similar situation with the turbo going out but it has about 9 months later. I installed a new turbo last week and I put in a Infamous Performance oil supply system. I cost about $200. Maybe the dealer will put it in for you, it's not a difficult install. I'm going to change the oil with a motor flush every week for the next couple of weeks to try to get everything out.

 

You might want an independent garage do a compression test on the engine to verify there is no issue there. My engine was in spec so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

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Vanman, thats not a bad idea I have a friend with performance shop I will get him to do that next time I'm around his shop.

 

 

On to other news:

After my recent issues with my turbo I think it is wise to install some gauges to monitor things a little better. I know a boost gauge would be a wise choice but what other things is it worth monitoring? Also, how difficult is it to install a boost gauge? If there is another thread point me that way. Thanks for any advice!

 

Since the dealer wanted me to pay to return the car after the issues I decided to put a drivetrain warranty on the car for 3 years that covers engine, turbo, pumps, etc. etc... I found it a wise choice just in case the engine did bite the dust, then it would be covered and I wouldn't have to fight with Subaru to get them to replace it. Only downside other than the extra $20 a month is that I am pretty limited to the modifications, if any that I can do without voiding coverage. I am looking into that more and trying to get some firm answers since I have 60 days to drop the coverage and receive a full refund and I'm covered from day 1 which was nice. It has driven great since the new turbo and oil lines/filters. I changed the oil this past weekend and didn't see anything other than pollen. Not any metal that I could see. Car has been running great as far as I can tell.

 

JB

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Subaru offers a STI gauge pack for our cars. if you get it installed by the dealer it will not mess with that warranty you purchased.

I also suggest getting the IPT Oil line and bringing it to the dealer and having them install it. Make sure they verify that it is just a better filtered line solution so that they will honor your warranty in the future. Keep all the receipts.

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one note: the IPT oil line is not available for stock Turbo's yet. The old ones flow rate is too much.

 

A new one that works with stock turbo's is being developed, however it won't be ready for another month or so.

 

edit: can't remember which thread I saw this in. Somewhere recent on the 05-09 legacy gt section of the site.

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Um the IPT line is fine for stock turbos it's the BB after market turbos that need a restriction. A lot of people have them on the stock turbo including myself. I have had it on the stock turbo for 40k miles with out issue.

That's what they where originally designed for.

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What about a new downpipe, since the exhaust is one of the few things not covered by the warranty. I still think I will need to go with something a dealer can install and approve of just to keep the headaches to a minimum. Will the STI stock downpipe fit or is there another stock one that is better than my 05 OBXT stock DP? Also, what are the benefits of an aftermarket DP over say the STI DP?

 

Also, is the BPV(or BOV) on the STI any better than the one on a stock OBXT? I was looking into replacing this also but since its one of the items covered by the warranty then I have to replace it with an approved part or it will void the warranty. The warranty does state that it will not cover anything for a breakdown caused by or involving modifications unless those modifications were performed by the manufacturer and the mods meet the manufacturer's specifications.

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No difference between LGT / STI downpipes in terms of performance. I have a gutted stock downpipe for sale if you want it to "look" stock (not even sure a dealership would notice if they installed it, lol). Aftermarket downpipes have a bellmouth / divorced wastegate design at the turbo which helps with performance--stock has a blocking plate there.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Darn, I was hoping to keep the stock look and boost performance by swapping with another stock DP. Does an aftermarket DP have any way of causing harm to the turbo or anything else? If it doesn't then I won't have to worry about it voiding my warranty.

 

Any answers to the BPV/BOV question?

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Darn, I was hoping to keep the stock look and boost performance by swapping with another stock DP. Does an aftermarket DP have any way of causing harm to the turbo or anything else? If it doesn't then I won't have to worry about it voiding my warranty.

 

Any answers to the BPV/BOV question?

 

Aftermarket parts that increase power will void your warranty most likely. You don't need a new BPV with a stock car. STi BPV will not fit.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Darn, I was hoping to keep the stock look and boost performance by swapping with another stock DP. Does an aftermarket DP have any way of causing harm to the turbo or anything else? If it doesn't then I won't have to worry about it voiding my warranty.

 

Any answers to the BPV/BOV question?

 

If you get a "gutted downpipe" and a tune for it it will increase the cars power. If you get an after market downpipe and a tune it will increase the cars power.

 

However, like BMB said - both will probably void your warranty.

 

One thing to note: if you get any downpipe - gutted or after market. You will have to get a tune so the ECU knows how to handle the downpipe.

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Um the IPT line is fine for stock turbos it's the BB after market turbos that need a restriction. A lot of people have them on the stock turbo including myself. I have had it on the stock turbo for 40k miles with out issue.

That's what they where originally designed for.

Not so sure you have this one right. Mike has been discussing the V2 in several threads over the last week, and one of the big updates is to use it with stock turbos. I believe for V1, one of the original banjo fittings had to be reused to prevent over oiling stock turbos, which may be what you did. I am also pretty sure when he released that oil line kit initially, it was to provide a better solution for the people purchasing BNR (and other upgraded) turbos (hence Bryan's updated warranty policy for BNR purchases).

 

Here's one of his posts with additional info posted below it to clarify:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4784319&postcount=204

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  • 1 month later...

I can confirm what catalyst is saying regards the filter.

 

The banjo bolt supplied is for higher flow turbos such as BNR, for stock you just remove the screen filter from your original banjo and re-use it - no big deal.

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