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Curtis's 05 LGT Build Journal


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Yeah Mike did the tune I think his Instagram handle is MikeySTI he can pretty much do whatever you want, he actually even told me he could get more out of it but I told him I drive a lot for school and work. Guy know's his stuff has owned numerous STI's currently drives an ALPHA OMEGA GTR *Mint*. I put a ridiculous amount of miles on my car so I want it to last as long as possible yet I bought a LGT weird right?... Plus I'm still running stock TMIC with new OEM clutch.

 

Call up the shop ask to speak with Jimmy he's a great guy or check out their website they hardly advertise but are always busy their work speaks volumes to their customers, their shop car is a 1406 whp GTR... among other cars.

 

All so true! Awesome place, I work down the rd from The Shop and am in there often. They will be tuning my car once the engine is broken in! Can't say enough good things about them. Their 911 and GT-R are amazing!

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  • 2 months later...
Mod list YTD:

 

Volk RE30 18X8 +35 Wheels

Hankook Ventus V12 225/40/18

Muteki crappy lugs

Depo Clear headlights

Morimoto 5k HID kit

Hella Supertones

 

JDM Version 8 STi Brembo Calipers F/R Powdercoated Mirror Red

DBA Slotted Rotors

Stoptech Pads

Stoptech SS Front brake lines

Agency Power SS Rear brake lines

 

BC BR Coilovers

Whiteline Rear Camber bushing

 

JDM Double Din

JDM Hazard switch

Pioneer Head Unit

Some subs and other sound stuff, blah blah.

 

Readline Goods Leather shift and E-brake boots

 

Are these a direct fit or some modifications needed?

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Are these a direct fit or some modifications needed?

 

Its been a while now but the fronts with 5X100 rotors are a direct bolt on fitment. The rears I needed brackets and special rotors. I'm pretty sure I got them from KNS brakes. I used their custom rotors and retained my e brake shoes with the brackets. All you have to do is knock the dust shield off its welds and bolt everything up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So we got on the dyno today and immediately had problems. Apparently according to my accessport there is too much cyl roughness on cyl 3 and 4.

 

I never really noticed a hard miss on the car the last two weeks Iv been driving it. Sure it was kinda rough but I thought it was maybe just the fueling for the tune. I know exactly what a hard miss feels like especially if its in two cyl out of a four cyl motor and never would have thought that it was missing that bad. They seem to think it was bad injectors and told me to come back. On the dyno we threw in some used injectors and no change.

 

Well I took it back to my shop and did a little old school diag. First I noticed that what my problem is is that when the car is at idle cyl 3 and 4 apparently go dead. The roughness counter just flies infinite misfires apparently. Although the car seems to run pretty smooth. As soon as I put my foot on the clutch and put it in any gear, the misfires come back. Take it out of gear, they go away. Only on cyl 3 and 4. If I raise the RPMS above 2k, the misfires go away. Sounds like a vac leak right? Well only when its in gear the misfires come back. Sitting at idle even with a little gas, they go away. Now when I drive it as I shift, countless misfires up until 2k then they completely stop. Doesn't feel like Im on two dead cyl but apparently I am. Like I said I have my accessport right there and watch as soon as its in gear foot completely on the clutch, the misfires come back, take it out of gear and they completely go away.

 

So I swapped the rear and front injectors. No change. Swapped plugs and no changed. I was about swap coils and said hm lets try something. So I unplugged the maf and started it and it had zero misfires. Did the same gear test and no misfires. Didn't try driving it like that but I will tomorrow. Just for the hell of it Ill swap coils around as well just to see what happens but I figure in my experience that if a coil is bad or plug, typically the misfires will get worse under load or higher rpms, not go a way. Its either dead or working usually. So next is that as well as checking compression. Im dreading that. New motor and refinished heads shouldn't have a problem with compression on two opposing cylinders but you never know. If they were on the same bank I could at least say yeah it could be a headgasket or intake issue or even incorrect valve lash but opposing sides makes me think its something else.

 

Talked to my tuner about it again because I was questioning the base map but he is convinced that its something mechanical.

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So you unplug the MAF and the engine runs fine ?

 

You push in the clutch pedal and you get a misfire ?

 

With the car in neutral you don't have a misfire?

 

Are the grounds OK ? there are two up by the clutch cylinder.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So you unplug the MAF and the engine runs fine ?

 

You push in the clutch pedal and you get a misfire ?

 

With the car in neutral you don't have a misfire?

 

Are the grounds OK ? there are two up by the clutch cylinder.

 

Yep. So I swapped out the maf with a forester XT we have for sale on the lot and no change.

 

Push in the clutch, nothing happens. Put it in gear and keep your foot on the clutch, my accessport says cyl roughness on cyl 3 and 4 only. No other cyl. That's with the clutch still in, completely disengaged from the engine.

 

Driving, as you shift as long as you are above 2k, roughness count goes back to zero. If I shift to like sixth gear and its under 2k at a steady speed, the counter goes ape shit and just keeps going regardless of not really feeling a hard miss at all.

 

Grounds are all good and extra once we added at the time of the swap.

 

So today I swapped coils knowing its not that and no change. Swapped plugs of course, no change. Did compression and we have about 120 on every cyl. Yeah kinda low but for a motor with 800 miles on it when the rings are not fully set in, Id say its a pass.

 

Did a smoke tested the intake system under pressure and found a tiny leak at a clamp on the turbo inlet but after tightening it, no change.

 

Just for the hell of it I uninstalled my base map, installed another map and reloaded the base map and no change.

 

If it wernt for the larger injectors and TGV deletes I would just load in another like stage two map and see what happens but the TGVs will throw the car into limp mode.

 

Maybe Ill plug the motors in and let them dangle and swap the injectors to stock and see what happens on another map but between this and my ac not working anymore through the climate control, Im reasonably convinced this is a tune issue. I feel like something isn't scaled right and its causeing this issue.

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So it happened once you got to the dyno and not before ? or is it you just didn't notice it before ?

 

Well... yeah pretty much.

 

It always ran kinda like a little shaky but pretty much always had stable idle for the two or three weeks I had it on my base tune. I just figured it was the base tune and things were just not scaled perfectly and what not.

 

I know what a true misfire feels like especially a dead cyl. But once it was on the dyno they were pretty much like uhh we haz problem you are running on two cyl. Im like that cant be... why does it run pretty smooth? I saw the roughness monitors on STi Mikey's computer and yeah it was doing the same thing just counting away. But while driving it, it just doesn't feel like its actually misfiring that bad. In fact once you reach 2k in any gear the misfire counter stays at zero. Highway speed its at zero. Only while shifting like from a stop does it sayyy its misfiring but I don't feel it.

 

Running on two cyl? It just doesn't feel like it and I live in a hilly area, the car would have seriously no power what so ever and run like dog shit. It does not. It revs up smooth, it boosts, it never ever threw an old fassion p0300 p0303 p0304 code ever in the three weeks I drove it. A dead miss would undoubtedly do that.

 

When you put it in gear at a stop, the counter goes on and on in cyl 3 and 4. And the revs go from 900 to 1200 to 900 to 1200 like a vac leak would then you take out of gear and it immediately stabilizes idle.

 

But in a nut shell, compression is good, coils, plugs, wires, grounds, boost leaks, vac leaks, injectors, fuel all good and checked.

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Another thing suggested was valve lash being incorrect.

 

Okay sounds reasonable... But I had my full valve job done at Carlquist completion engines in watertown. They know Subaru heads well. They set the lash for me during the valve job and everything measured perfect.

 

Cyl 3 and 4 are opposite banks. Why would they set lash wrong on one piston on each head and not the other? And incorrect lash would have a loud ticky motor which I don't have and Id have misfires all the time which get worse under load, at least Id think so.

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Messing with the neutral saftey switch made zero difference. Now it stays solid idle until I put it in gear and thennn let off the cluch on the lift. So instead of doing it as soon as its in gear, it does it one I let off the clutch in gear up to about 2200 rpm then zero misfires.
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Still no DTCs? Only picking up the knocks on access port? I know this is not very helpful but I am fascinated by your issues. Sounds identical to ones I had. Mine was obvious however vacuum line off of intake after I plugged it in I got hard knocks out cylinder #4. After finding a bad plug in there I thought that was it. Started again I swapped coil packs and injectors from 4 to 2. After which I got misfire on 2,3 and 4. Then discovered broken ring land on #4. Obviously you ruled out all this already....
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Still no DTCs? Only picking up the knocks on access port? I know this is not very helpful but I am fascinated by your issues. Sounds identical to ones I had. Mine was obvious however vacuum line off of intake after I plugged it in I got hard knocks out cylinder #4. After finding a bad plug in there I thought that was it. Started again I swapped coil packs and injectors from 4 to 2. After which I got misfire on 2,3 and 4. Then discovered broken ring land on #4. Obviously you ruled out all this already....

 

Mine was hard coding with misfires after I found vacuum line however....

 

I really feel like there is a dead spot in the tune but I am not savvy on how to log that kinds stuff.

 

I pretty much checked all my old school diag instinct here. Im gunna recheck compression again since I did it in a major rush before working on customer cars.

 

And yes, still not a single DTC regarding misfires or knock or advancement timing issues or anything for that matter. Car runs overall well despite having and unpredictable idle. Some days its fine and others it runs like crap but always displays the same misfire pattern on my accessport no matter what.

 

Zero misfires after like 2200 rpm. Also after driving once approaching a stop and I throw it in neutral for a bit, it will misfire misfire misfire misfire and then as soon as the vehicle reaches zero speed, the counter drops to zero and stays there. If the car is rolling even down my driveway and has some speed input, it misfires and then comes to a complete stop once the vehicle does.

 

Something is def off and the ecu is still not grounding my ac compressor relay so no ac what so ever.

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