Con.Harr91 Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Haha, I wasn't referring to my buddy covertrussian. BTW Vadim, you going to Cleveland in June? You, me, and Randy can crash the track day with Legacies. '03 Forester X 5mt - Engine Seized at 262k miles. '05 LGT Wagon 6mt -MotoIQ.com Project Vehicle '13 VW Touareg TDI - Daily Torque Monster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I run a mobile auto repair company and a customers turbo blew, sounds like a bunch of bbs in a blender at idle. They were planning on selling the car and had a p0011 code, now I'm starting with the turbo and wondering if anyone had ever removed the moving parts inside of it just to cheaply and easily drive the car till able to spend $$$ on rebuilding it or replacing, I have not touched the car in anyway to view the extent of the damage your experiences are much appreciated Jerry. First things first, tell them to take their car to a reputable shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thread is full of win!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Naaaa, he's just great with a camera, his wife does all the work. Haha, he's talking about connected. Haha, I wasn't referring to my buddy covertrussian. BTW Vadim, you going to Cleveland in June? You, me, and Randy can crash the track day with Legacies. Perhaps, not 100% sure yet. I would probably bring the P11, since there is no best in class "SUBARU" 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 if you cold started it even once after the turbo failed the rest of the engine is likely junk. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 That is just the mechanical side... what about a tune? I don't believe the stock fuel maps would ever compensate for this set up, and I have no idea how a tuner would go about making a base map for it. it would work fine Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 if you cold started it even once after the turbo failed the rest of the engine is likely junk. Yup would definitely drop the oil pan to make sure. I should mention that this isn't the case with all turbo's, I had a Precision turbo fail on me (my fault) on my Nissan, I drove it 40 miles home and all was still well with the motor. IHI turbo's seem to be made out of glass... 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 You can drive home with the Ihi also. It's the next cold start that sends crap through the engine as the oil filter is bypassed But the problem is you can't check the engine with out tearing it all apart. And that's a 30 hour job Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 The turbo I saw was so destroyed driving it home would send chunks to the intake and exhaust, plus turbo bearings in the oil pan etc. But I have no idea if the previous owner of the car cold started it or not, I definitely cold started on my Nissan, but my oilpan was spotless. Also your oil pickup does have a mesh screen to block chunks, if it's not ripped you should be mostly good. Wont stop the small shavings from clogging up the banjos and the oil filter though. BTW I like your swap, I've considered doing the same with an inline 4, but I did compromise with this car for AWD, going RWD would be counterproductive. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I'm still 4wd Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I'm still 4wd Figured so with where you live, that's why I said inline 4, there is really no inline 4 AWD's that would fit (Evo is is not transaxle thus wont work). 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 No it's too long V4 or v6 fit Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Figured so with where you live, that's why I said inline 4, there is really no inline 4 AWD's that would fit (Evo is is not transaxle thus wont work). A Honda K series rotates the correct way I believe. You can have a adaptor plate made... They are some K series putting out 1000hp. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connected Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 No has not been cold started since the shaft broke, I literally took it for a test drive 1/4 mile away and knew something was failing, it had some boost and as I turned around I accelerated as if to merge when it failed. I drove it home as quietly as possible.. As in at the right rpm i think the turbo fans were stuck and not spinning and chewing them selfs to obliteration. I shut it off in the drive way and after I got the go ahead to work on it I pushed it into the garage, it sat cause I had a lot of backup work to finish. I'm still waiting for the guy to get back to me. I'm confident in doing all of the work only fear i have engine has issues because it has been driven for a while making noise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Con.Harr91 Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I get way too much enjoyment from your last post Byron. '03 Forester X 5mt - Engine Seized at 262k miles. '05 LGT Wagon 6mt -MotoIQ.com Project Vehicle '13 VW Touareg TDI - Daily Torque Monster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Ok, so it sounds like the car has not been running since the last time you parked it ? You need to pull the downpipe and try and move the turbo shaft, to see how much play there is and what that side looks like. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/142-000-miles-oem-turbo-168561.html there's my thread from a few years back. I had not metal in the oil. I got lucky. If you have a lot of play, your going to want to drop the oil pan and clean it real good, or for $90. buy a new one, along with a oil cooler and may be oil pump. The next question is, how long do you plan to keep the car ? That decides what the right way is to move forward. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I get way too much enjoyment from your last post Byron. That's part of the reason I'm here, I also get a lot of enjoyment out of this forum. I sometimes get lost in so many threads... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connected Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 Yes I turned it off as soon as I got home maybe 5 mins of driving with the shaft broken, I just looked into the issue at hand and contrary to some ppls beliefs here I am intelligent! So I will not start the car until I have confirmation from the owner of how he wants to proceed, I already said that i took it apart and the blades are chewed up and the shaft is broke, oil poured out of the intake port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 Oil is from the bad seal, caused by the ... well I'm sure you know that. What does the oil on the dip stick look like ? Glittery/Shinny ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connected Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 Yes its glittery I know I need to drop the pan! I've already stated all my conditions, I guess I just need to estimate how much labor $ to charge for all the work, being under it briefly looks like sub frame needs to be removed to access oil pan. I still waiting for the guy to call me, it had a timing belt replaced but not sure how the car was kept. I don't think he will be too surprised. I think a magnetic drain plug is in order as well after this. Anything helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 You don't need to remove the subframe to access the oil pan, disconnect the 2 engine mounts on the bottom and jack the motor up about 2". That should give you enough room to get the rear bolts out of the pan. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 The oil pan can be a PITA you'll understand when you see the pick up. Even on the engine stand in the driveway, it was a PITA. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connected Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Thanks! I have a few different tools at my disposal, ill use a cross brace engine support from the top so no cherry picker legs in the way, I'm ordering a 2 post lift for my home garage, but for now creeper is comfy as a recliner haha, I looked up an oil pan DIY on this forum, found that answer and book says little over 2 hours for the pan replacment so I knew it was not terrible. Ill update in about a week got other things going on and a new turbo on the way from eBay. I'll want to tackle everything in a day or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connected Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Ok so I got a 2 post lift installed (thumbs up) made the removal pretty darn easy, no bearings but lots of metal chips... Looks like I'll be pulling the filter off the front of the engine behind the timing belt as well to remove the filter... All it nothing at this point... Thanks for the info again if i have any more questions I can't find answers to ill shoot them here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connected Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Getting the cam pulleys off are quite difficult, removed radiator and moved the condenser, impact would not break it and i seen the Allen key doing some damage to the bolt head. This is how I got it off, timing belt left on, breaker on crankshaft jammed against frame, used a hammer and beat the stuck bolts inward(5 hits each), believe it or not it tends to help the surface tension (at least I believe), then another breaker bar on the Allen key part and I loaded it quickly on and off, multiple times slowly increasing pressure making sure the belt does not jump a tooth, till they cracked loose, almost all my body wieght, I'm using a new belt after this (this one was recently replaced) but subjecting it to this torture I'm sure could be no good and it's also non oem... No name brand, removed the filters hard to tell how clogged they are but non the less they are removed and today starts the reassembly! Taking my sweet time on it but I got all sorts of things going on in between... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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