emgsxr Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Alright, so my car is crazy. Sometimes when I change the oil, the level is fine and sometimes I have to put in like three quarts between changes. There's no evidence of leakage on the ground, so where is it going? I don't ever really drive it hard, and how I drive it is pretty consistent over multiple oil changes. Help? '05 LGT Limited, just over 100,000 miles. Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omenjh Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Could the be car burning oil? Do you have any smoke coming out of the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Not that I know of, and it never smells. Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omenjh Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 What type of oil are you using? When I got my LGT it had been eating oil too, the previous owner used the cheapest oil he could find. I switched to full synthetic and the oil consumption stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 I've been using Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Turbo, PCV, low comp all possible options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 As some of us have noted, these car don't always use oil at the same rate. I figured mine would have used a bit on the drive home from VT on Sunday, it didn't. The week before it used a little. Some weekends it uses oil others it doesn't. But your using that much. begin looking for the cause. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Yeah that's why I posted here. I wanted to get an idea of possible causes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 As Rob said, the PCV or turbo oil seals are the most common. You may want to have a compression test and may be a leak down test done too. Is the car on the OEM MAP or Tuned ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Oem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I would hope its not rings with that low milage. The PCV should be the first thing to check and make sure it rattles when you shake it. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ the GT's start about 1600. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 The most common causes would be piston rings going bad. As Max mention above, it's a lot easier to replace the PCV and inspect the turbo for leaks. Once that's done, and the problem still exsits, then do a compression test to determine if 1 or more of the cylinders are leaking. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Alright thanks everyone. Sounds like I'm gonna replace the PCV and see if that does the trick. If not, I have more detective work to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soh lgt Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Not plugging Amsoil but this explains mysterious oil consumption. If all mechanicals are good. AMSOIL was the first motor oil company in North America to use the NOACK volatility test to measure motor oil quality and performance. Although competing motor oil companies initially paid no attention to NOACK results, the test has since become a critical measurement tool throughout the industry. Originally developed and used in Europe, the NOACK volatility test determines how much weight an oil loses through volatilization. The more a motor oil vaporizes, the thicker and heavier it becomes, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions. During the test, the subject oil is heated to 150°C for a specified period, causing the lighter oil molecules to boil off. The results are reported in the percentage, by weight, of the oil that evaporates. The lower the number, the better the oil resists volatilization. Testing Because they are made from impure, irregular molecules, conventional motor oils are more susceptible to the effects of heat. The small, light molecules in conventional oil tend to evaporate (volatilize) as the oil is heated, leaving large, heavy molecules behind and leading to oil consumption and an increase in the oilâEURs viscosity. If those large, heavy molecules are chemically unstable, they may also break down and form deposits on component surfaces, further inhibiting the release of heat into the oil stream. Because their formulations minimize the quantity of impure, irregular molecules, synthetic motor oils are generally more resistant to volatilization, allowing them to perform better than conventional oils in the NOACK volatility test. However, due to varying qualities of base stocks and additives, not all synthetic motor oils perform the same in the NOACK test. Modern engine designs generate more heat than ever, accentuating the importance of the NOACK volatility test for determining an oilâEURs ability to provide an adequate level of protection and performance. More horsepower, turbo chargers and aerodynamic styling have created extremely hot environments that receive less cooling from outside air, and high heat leads to oil oxidation, deposits and thickening in conventional oils. NOACK Volatility Testing Because AMSOIL synthetic lubricants contain only uniform molecules, they are much more resistant to thermal and oxidative breakdown. AMSOIL synthetic motor oils help keep components free of damaging varnish, deposits and sludge. To qualify for the current API SM motor oil specification, gasoline motor oils cannot experience a weight loss of more than 15 percent in the NOACK test. AMSOIL synthetic motor oils were exceeding modern requirements over 20 years ago, while many current motor oils still have a hard time meeting this minimal requirement, increasing wear, fuel consumption and emissions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Are you sure the dipstick isn't getting wiped on the way out making the level look too low? Mine does that, but only on one side of the stick so I know to go by the higher level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Yeah I'm sure; right after I change the oil it shows full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I rebuilt my motor last year, because I was consuming a crap load of oil each month. At least a quart every 500 - 700 miles. Found out that the piston rings were toast, scoring on 2 of the cylinders and a small crack ringland on one of the pistons. After rebuilding the motor with forged pistons, I barely use 1/4 quart of oil between oil changes (5k miles). My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 You do know how to get a correct oil level reading on these cars, right ? It took me a while to learn the porcess. I removed the o-ring at the top of the dip stick. park the car on level ground, come back a few hours later, pull the dip stick, read where the oil is. Sometimes there will be a V shape on the front side, flip the stick over, it will be flat on that side. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 You do know how to get a correct oil level reading on these cars, right ? It took me a while to learn the porcess. I removed the o-ring at the top of the dip stick. park the car on level ground, come back a few hours later, pull the dip stick, read where the oil is. Sometimes there will be a V shape on the front side, flip the stick over, it will be flat on that side. Yeah....it's not much different from how I've done it on any of my cars except the ring. I don't do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Max, removing the oil ring can cause a vacuum leak. The crankcase is under vacuum, which is why the O-ring is there - to ensure that the dipstick column is as air-tight as possible. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I have a AOS on my oil fill tube on my wagon. That's vented to the air, right ? The other way I have checked the oil is to pull the dip stick about a inch. close the hood, go to work, after work come out and check the oil level. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Negs mate - it's under vacuum as well. Otherwise, how would the oil vapor be pulled back into the oil pan? And the Oil filler neck AOSes have an O-ring for the same reason. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 OK I'll put them back on. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 FWIW, my oil reads over-full if I just pull the stick out cold. I have to wipe it down and re-check to get an accurate level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emgsxr Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Yup, I've learned it's good practice to always wipe it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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