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Doing timing belt soon, Questions


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1. Should I spend the extra $20 to get the Gates "blue high performance" kevlar belt? Does it actually matter?

2. I was also planning to replace the water pump and thermostat while I'm in there. I was also considering doing upper and lower radiator hoses, is that worth it?

3. What special tools do I need (if any) to take off the harmonic balancer and/or manipulate the crankshaft?

 

 

I watched some youtube videos about how to line up the marks and things, any other tips for doing this job? I've done a timing belt 10 years ago on a 3.0L Infiniti but never a Subaru, so any pointers would be nice. Thanks

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Replace everything under the cover, get some oem tensioners and idlers as well. Hoses are optional I suppose and I have no experience with the gates kevlar belt.

 

Before teardown set the motor to tdc so that you do not have to move the crankshaft after taking the pulley/balancer off.

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Did you read this thread.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html

 

Answers are there.

 

IMO;

 

1. No, people hand issues with the "BLUE" coming off the belt & caking on the pulleys.

2. Yes, any hose that I have to remove to do a job that over 5-6yrs. old. I would replace.

3. Yes, get the right tool for the job, make job that much easier.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/crank-pulley-removal-tool-subaru/

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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3. the grimmspeed tool is slick, but I was able to hold it with two socket extenders in the large holes and a crow bar and still fit a 1/2 socket in there just fine. Used the $50 towards an OEM H2O pump and thermostat.

 

I also did acc belts since they were already off.

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Definitely buy the crank pulley holder tool. The crank bolt is on there VERY tight.

 

Buy a whole complete gates kit. It comes with everything that is inside the timing cover except the thermostat, seals and coolant.

 

I personally won't replace the crank or cam seals unless they're leaking.

10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned.

 

SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC.

Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP

1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission.

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Thanks for the responses....what are your thoughts on locking the cams? I know one guy had problems with the vice grips breaking the cam gear, I dont want to do that. I don't remember locking cams when I did my Infiniti belt awhile ago, is it really necessary to do it here? If the cam gets knocked slightly out of alignment, can I nudge it back by hand or is all hope lost at that point?

 

I found some "cam lock" tools for $25 each, maybe I should pick up 2 of them?

 

Also, anyone looking to sell/lend a Grimmspeed pulley tool?

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http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=206

 

On RockAuto.com click "Tools and Universal Parts" tab --> Engine --> Tool --> Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) Lock Tool

 

EDIT: LOOKS LIKE THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR OUR ENGINES!! Found a review on Amazon: "Looks like a useful tool but it doesn't work on a Subaru 4 cylinder turbo engine. The problem is that this tool needs the cam sprocket notches to come to the edge of the sprocket. On the Subaru only one of the sprockets has this."

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needle nose vice grips worked just fine for me.

 

just don't channel a silver back gorilla when you are installing them and you should be fine. Wrap the ends of the vice grips in some duct tape if you're worried about scratches on the inside of the pulleys.

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http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=206

 

On RockAuto.com click "Tools and Universal Parts" tab --> Engine --> Tool --> Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) Lock Tool

 

EDIT: LOOKS LIKE THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR OUR ENGINES!! Found a review on Amazon: "Looks like a useful tool but it doesn't work on a Subaru 4 cylinder turbo engine. The problem is that this tool needs the cam sprocket notches to come to the edge of the sprocket. On the Subaru only one of the sprockets has this."

 

Thanks for posting the link. I did find the same thing you did as far as a most likely "will not work on Subaru" but I did find another one that looks like it would work well and I posted it in my stickie thread:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html?p=4713441#post4713441

 

Last post. Good luck. :)

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Thanks for the responses....what are your thoughts on locking the cams? I know one guy had problems with the vice grips breaking the cam gear, I dont want to do that. I don't remember locking cams when I did my Infiniti belt awhile ago, is it really necessary to do it here? If the cam gets knocked slightly out of alignment, can I nudge it back by hand or is all hope lost at that point?

 

I found some "cam lock" tools for $25 each, maybe I should pick up 2 of them?

 

Also, anyone looking to sell/lend a Grimmspeed pulley tool?

 

needle nose vice grips worked just fine for me.

 

just don't channel a silver back gorilla when you are installing them and you should be fine. Wrap the ends of the vice grips in some duct tape if you're worried about scratches on the inside of the pulleys.

 

If you going to use vise grips, please read my post. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4366413&postcount=158

 

The wood shims take up the gap between the DS upper & lower cam pulleys. Limiting almost all the outward pressure placed on the cam pulley by the vise grip. Remember you do not need a lot of force to hold cams in place.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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You need a helper. I do not think I could have changed mine alone. Take your time. I didn't use vice grips for anything? If duct tape and vice grips are a part of your plan, please re-evaluate.

 

When I pulled the pin from the new tensioner I wanted to wear it around like a badge of honor. :dm:

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