Official 3.6R Mod List

[Timothy.B]

So, now that I'm sitting on a sport suspension, I'm over here looking at exhaust parts

 

This is what I have so far:

 

Raptor headers $400 - shipped

 

AFR OEM 22641AA53A $127 x 2: $250

 

Oxygen Sensor 22690AA68A $95 x 2: $200 (I'm gonna get my emissions check before they touch the exhaust and I'll have two years to worry about it again. Thinking of having the bungs welded in for O2's and plugged and I'll worry about these later, given they'll add $200 to the cost)

 

Magna Flow 94300 2.5" High Flow Cats $114 x2: $230

 

Vibrant Performance Standard Flex Coupling 62804: $30

 

V-Band clamps (2 for after headers and one for after flex) $45

 

MagnaFlow 10436 2.5" (4" Round 28" Overall Length) $83

I'm a bit confused on this. I've seen them called resonators and mufflers. I figured this is what I was looking for just after the Y connection.

 

If I get additional drone I'll look into the j-pipe for canceling the RPM range.

 

MagnaFlow 14827 Angled Tip Mufflers $128x2: $256

 

Also thinking of having the shop use hangers or something for the connection to the transmission mount at the Y to help eliminate exhaust going through the transmission mount into the cabin. I've gained a bit of NVH with the transmission insert and imagine after headers this'll worsen a bit.

 

What you guys think? Also what I'm I figuring for labor cost on average? I also didn't factor in the 2.5" tubing as well.

[Perscitus]

Hey Tim, I'd revise the post above to say 'Front A/F Lambda Sensors' vs 'Rear O2 Sensors'. You don't need the OEM A/F Lambda sensors either - get the Denso generics - better and cheaper - win win. Denso 234-9092

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MD0NBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I'd skip both the Rear O2s personally, just ask Ed to turn them off in the tune (AF Learn/Correct #3/4 min/max values, thresholds, etc, associated 1-2 DTCs for cat efficency) and never ever worry about them again. No need to unplug, weld bongs, etc. Just disable, leave plugged in, stealth mod (just like EGR disable on these cars, no need to unplug or remove anything). Benefit - far more stable AFRs and fuel trims this way. Zero impact on emissions readiness or checks.

 

Aside from the Raptor headers, ask Raptor Tim for the flange spacers and use his flanges. Will help with the 26mm FSB.

 

With the money saved I'd urge you pickup Vibrant GESI 2.5" HO cats.

They are pricey from the producer or Vibrant directly, but if you shop around you can grab one @ $200-300/each. Well well worth the money.

Flow almost as good as catless and still OBDII compliant, no smell, no smoke, 400 cell metal core (you want 400 cell, not less).

 

Get an SS turbo flex coupling. Vibrant 60804

4" is plenty but the inner structure will help you to never have to replace it.

 

I'd skip V-bands/Donut or any clamps - weld away. Exhaust isn't going anywhere after you put it on. At least header to rear axle sections.

 

Resonators - mufflers - if they are small and straight-through with little or no padding material - think resonators, else mufflers. I'd recommend FlowMaster HP2 - doesn't really matter its 2.25":

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-12412304?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-flowmaster&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyY7Ag-ih3gIVBNRkCh169glWEAQYBSABEgLD8PD_BwE

 

If you still have rasp or drone - I'd stick a bottle style Vibrant resonator directly behind it (it will fit nicely in the tight space by the driveshaft just before the rear axle and diff)

 

https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1527_1032_1054&products_id=291&osCsid=c60ccb52e91b53066ed519196e793089

 

That should do the trick.

 

PS - MAF replacement from Denso: Denso DAC197-6130

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J378G8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Humble Rumble]

Hey Tim, I'd revise the post above to say 'Front A/F Lambda Sensors' vs 'Rear O2 Sensors'. You don't need the OEM A/F Lambda sensors either - get the Denso generics - better and cheaper - win win. Denso 234-9092

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MD0NBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I'd skip both the Rear O2s personally, just ask Ed to turn them off in the tune (AF Learn/Correct #3/4 min/max values, thresholds, etc, associated 1-2 DTCs for cat efficency) and never ever worry about them again. No need to unplug, weld bongs, etc. Just disable, leave plugged in, stealth mod (just like EGR disable on these cars, no need to unplug or remove anything). Benefit - far more stable AFRs and fuel trims this way. Zero impact on emissions readiness or checks.

 

Aside from the Raptor headers, ask Raptor Tim for the flange spacers and use his flanges. Will help with the 26mm FSB.

 

With the money saved I'd urge you pickup Vibrant GESI 2.5" HO cats.

They are pricey from the producer or Vibrant directly, but if you shop around you can grab one @ $200-300/each. Well well worth the money.

Flow almost as good as catless and still OBDII compliant, no smell, no smoke, 400 cell metal core (you want 400 cell, not less).

 

Get an SS turbo flex coupling. Vibrant 60804

4" is plenty but the inner structure will help you to never have to replace it.

 

I'd skip V-bands/Donut or any clamps - weld away. Exhaust isn't going anywhere after you put it on. At least header to rear axle sections.

 

Resonators - mufflers - if they are small and straight-through with little or no padding material - think resonators, else mufflers. I'd recommend FlowMaster HP2 - doesn't really matter its 2.25":

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-12412304?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-flowmaster&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyY7Ag-ih3gIVBNRkCh169glWEAQYBSABEgLD8PD_BwE

 

If you still have rasp or drone - I'd stick a bottle style Vibrant resonator directly behind it (it will fit nicely in the tight space by the driveshaft just before the rear axle and diff)

 

https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1527_1032_1054&products_id=291&osCsid=c60ccb52e91b53066ed519196e793089

 

That should do the trick.

 

PS - MAF replacement from Denso: Denso DAC197-6130

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J378G8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Tiny note: per an email I had with Raptor earlier this year, apparently they've slightly re-designed the 5th gen headers so the 26mm FSB spacers are no longer needed.

 

[Timothy.B]

Hey Tim, I'd revise the post above to say 'Front A/F Lambda Sensors' vs 'Rear O2 Sensors'. You don't need the OEM A/F Lambda sensors either - get the Denso generics - better and cheaper - win win. Denso 234-9092

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MD0NBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I'd skip both the Rear O2s personally, just ask Ed to turn them off in the tune (AF Learn/Correct #3/4 min/max values, thresholds, etc, associated 1-2 DTCs for cat efficency) and never ever worry about them again. No need to unplug, weld bongs, etc. Just disable, leave plugged in, stealth mod (just like EGR disable on these cars, no need to unplug or remove anything). Benefit - far more stable AFRs and fuel trims this way. Zero impact on emissions readiness or checks.

 

Aside from the Raptor headers, ask Raptor Tim for the flange spacers and use his flanges. Will help with the 26mm FSB.

 

With the money saved I'd urge you pickup Vibrant GESI 2.5" HO cats.

They are pricey from the producer or Vibrant directly, but if you shop around you can grab one @ $200-300/each. Well well worth the money.

Flow almost as good as catless and still OBDII compliant, no smell, no smoke, 400 cell metal core (you want 400 cell, not less).

 

Get an SS turbo flex coupling. Vibrant 60804

4" is plenty but the inner structure will help you to never have to replace it.

 

I'd skip V-bands/Donut or any clamps - weld away. Exhaust isn't going anywhere after you put it on. At least header to rear axle sections.

 

Resonators - mufflers - if they are small and straight-through with little or no padding material - think resonators, else mufflers. I'd recommend FlowMaster HP2 - doesn't really matter its 2.25":

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-12412304?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-flowmaster&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyY7Ag-ih3gIVBNRkCh169glWEAQYBSABEgLD8PD_BwE

 

If you still have rasp or drone - I'd stick a bottle style Vibrant resonator directly behind it (it will fit nicely in the tight space by the driveshaft just before the rear axle and diff)

 

https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1527_1032_1054&products_id=291&osCsid=c60ccb52e91b53066ed519196e793089

 

That should do the trick.

 

PS - MAF replacement from Denso: Denso DAC197-6130

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J378G8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I appreciate the wealth of advice that seems to flood from your keyboard

 

I've added the Denso sensors. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to pass emission without the O2's but I figured Ed might be able to do some computer magic so I wouldn't have to worry about throwing any codes.

 

I've also added the SS turbo flex to the list. Only $10 more. Good idea about the v-bands. I guess I never really thought about it but yeah, the exhaust won't be going anywhere. I'm just trying to be proactive and avoid exhaust leaks. I know a few 3.6 owners having issues with the gaskets just blowing out after a few months and having to constantly mess with getting a tight fit hence, v-bands.

 

I found the cat's for $330 each. I'll keep a lookout for any deals on them. Humble, thanks for that message. I'll be ordering headers sometime in the next few months.

 

How would you recommend placement of the FlowMasters? I got lost in that part of the message. My exhaust goal is louder than stock but not "shake my neighbors house at every cold start". I'm almost looking for a nice low end gurgle and a somewhat tame top end sound.

[Perscitus]

Sounds good Timmy. The flow is more of a death-throws impulse reaction. I'm trying to share what I can before I forget it all and disappear into 5th gen past.

That day is drawing ever near, I don't have much time left here with the car effectively sold. It was one hell of a ride 2010-2014/5.

 

 

 

Yup, no issues with emissions monitors or emissions at all with the Rear O2s effectively disabled (but still plugged in, still active from an ECU perspective). Their only purpose is to monitor cat health, and with HO cats - there is no need for them.

 

Goal-wise, sounds like you're after my setup then.

Keep the ID down to 2.25 if you want less boom and drone. Stepping up to 2.5 is OK, but a bit more pricey on all components (some aren't made in >2.5) and going 3.0 is pointless unless super/turbocharged.

 

I'd vote:

 

Header -> into custom y with GESIs or any metal-core 300-400 cell cats welded as far back as possible (AF sensors bungs MUST be in the exact same location and ideally orientation as stock - mark on the frame for reference - this is critical for the injector latencies, fuel trims and other aspects of the tune to not play tricks on Ed).

Rear O2s can be installed upstream of the cats if need be, they'll be disabled anyway.... or if you can swing it, also in the exact same location/orientation as stock.

This will force the location of the cats though.

 

 

If you do install the cats further upstream (say OE location of the first set of cats on the OE pipes) then you can even squeeze in a secondary set of cats (just like stock) or tiny resonators on each section of the y.

 

Re-use the stock mounting point for the y!

 

 

Then -> turbo flex coupler -> FlowMaster HP2 (18 inch version, get it as close to the SS coupler as humanely possible) -> Vibrant bottle style resonator (18" ideally) -> catback/axle bac

Weld all this stuff with slip-on connections except of course by the headers inlet/outlets - use flanges there.

 

Careful with leaks by the AF and O2 bungs, don't twist or stretch their wires,

 

Good welds downstream of the headers will keep the rest of the exhaust leaks down to a minimum.

 

 

Sound and volume will become a function of your rear mufflers and exhaust system ID.

I'd still vote keep 2.25" throughout... or worse case 2.5" max.

Edited October 26, 2018 by Perscitus

[Timothy.B]

Sounds good Timmy. The flow is more of a death-throws impulse reaction. I'm trying to share what I can before I forget it all and disappear into 5th gen past.

That day is drawing ever near, I don't have much time left here with the car effectively sold. It was one hell of a ride 2010-2014/5.

 

 

 

Yup, no issues with emissions monitors or emissions at all with the Rear O2s effectively disabled (but still plugged in, still active from an ECU perspective). Their only purpose is to monitor cat health, and with HO cats - there is no need for them.

 

Goal-wise, sounds like you're after my setup then.

Keep the ID down to 2.25 if you want less boom and drone. Stepping up to 2.5 is OK, but a bit more pricey on all components (some aren't made in >2.5) and going 3.0 is pointless unless super/turbocharged.

 

I'd vote:

 

Header -> into custom y with GESIs or any metal-core 300-400 cell cats welded as far back as possible (AF sensors bungs MUST be in the exact same location and ideally orientation as stock - mark on the frame for reference - this is critical for the injector latencies, fuel trims and other aspects of the tune to not play tricks on Ed).

Rear O2s can be installed upstream of the cats if need be, they'll be disabled anyway.... or if you can swing it, also in the exact same location/orientation as stock.

This will force the location of the cats though.

 

 

If you do install the cats further upstream (say OE location of the first set of cats on the OE pipes) then you can even squeeze in a secondary set of cats (just like stock) or tiny resonators on each section of the y.

 

Re-use the stock mounting point for the y!

 

 

Then -> turbo flex coupler -> FlowMaster HP2 (18 inch version, get it as close to the SS coupler as humanely possible) -> Vibrant bottle style resonator (18" ideally) -> catback/axle bac

Weld all this stuff with slip-on connections except of course by the headers inlet/outlets - use flanges there.

 

Careful with leaks by the AF and O2 bungs, don't twist or stretch their wires,

 

Good welds downstream of the headers will keep the rest of the exhaust leaks down to a minimum.

 

 

Sound and volume will become a function of your rear mufflers and exhaust system ID.

I'd still vote keep 2.25" throughout... or worse case 2.5" max.

 

Yeah, I heard you had a move on the way and was selling the car. You've got a new generation of 3.6R owners doing the crazy stuff now and you, Fredrik and the others are moving on. Well Fredrik is just, ya know

 

It's cool, we understand HumbleRumble and I have been pretty close in line with car mods. We're both itching for some more ponies.

 

I think I'll stick with 2.25". Keep the cost down and I have heard what the 3" can do to the sound. I'll talk more with the performance shop on when it comes time to do this. I found one towards Cleveland that works on Corvette's, Lamborghini, all those high dollar rides. As long as their shop labor cost isn't extreme I think they'll I'll go with them.

 

I understand now how the placement will work. I've found mufflers that I've liked but they're all overseas and would cost me $800 to have them made and shipped here. I'll probably browse through videos again to get an idea. Maybe even the shop could guide me with a good choice.

 

Thanks for the help, Perscitus. When you get to your new place, you gotta let us know what you get your hands on.

[Humble Rumble]

Going to be making very good use of this page myself as well in the next 6 months or so. I want to hit spring like a butterfly breaking out of its chrysalis.

 

Although Tim and I are pretty much dead even with our mods, we do have a bit of different goals for our cars. I have what's probably a silly question, but I'm going to ask it anyways: I know as NA's, we need to keep the piping down in diameter in order to keep the appropriate pressure. That said, I still want to go with the largest piping I can without detriment. I like the visual component of larger pipes. I've seen cars with giant pipes running all the way up, 3.5" or 4" or so, and I love when you catch a glimpse of a modified car's massive pipes disappearing up under the car. The plumbing makes it look impressive and imposing when you're under there, and that does matter to me to some extent. That said, I know you've said to avoid 3" unless going turbo/sc, and to stick to 2.25/2.5 ish, but what about 2.75"? Is that even an available size? Is there any sort of splitting-the-difference to be had there or is it just a.... pipe dream?

Edited October 26, 2018 by Humble Rumble

[Perscitus]

You can do 3" and it will fit (mostly) but you'll be paying a hefty premium for the various components if you want to keep a consistent 3" ID throughout Humble.

 

There will actually be little to no performance detriment (or gain) from going full 3"

so long as you get the right cats (and maybe even 2-in-line OE style) per bank.

 

2.75" is not very standard and you'd have a hell of a time finding components (piping is easy, cats, resonators, mufflers, flangers not so much).

 

Avoid all straight-through muffler/resonators (one or two in the flow are OK but not ALL), that's why something like Flowmaster's HP (the type, not just the specific piece) are perfect for these engines.

 

And above all - avoid going true dual. Its very doable with 2.25" but causes all kinds of issues with the tune and knock (no idea why, it just does - see pickler's notes over at RRs forum and on here I think).

 

Once you guys get the headers - your DBW, throttle and requested/calculated tq mappings will need to change - and so will your timing tables. AVCS can likely stay the same or similar. Timing will need to DROP (which is OK), no need for as much timing as stock with the headers to make optimal tq.

[Golferdude1087]

Going to be making very good use of this page myself as well in the next 6 months or so. I want to hit spring like a butterfly breaking out of its chrysalis.

 

Although Tim and I are pretty much dead even with our mods, we do have a bit of different goals for our cars. I have what's probably a silly question, but I'm going to ask it anyways: I know as NA's, we need to keep the piping down in diameter in order to keep the appropriate pressure. That said, I still want to go with the largest piping I can without detriment. I like the visual component of larger pipes. I've seen cars with giant pipes running all the way up, 3.5" or 4" or so, and I love when you catch a glimpse of a modified car's massive pipes disappearing up under the car. The plumbing makes it look impressive and imposing when you're under there, and that does matter to me to some extent. That said, I know you've said to avoid 3" unless going turbo/sc, and to stick to 2.25/2.5 ish, but what about 2.75"? Is that even an available size? Is there any sort of splitting-the-difference to be had there or is it just a.... pipe dream?

 

2.5 or 3", and 3 is pushing for N/A. As Perscitus said, 3" sees no real gain or loss unless you're boosting. Hes got the 3" CBE and im running a 2.375" stock mufflers and power was pretty much even when we raced.

 

The other issue you run into is resonance. As you remember Jason had to get a J pipe fitted to remove the drone but Perscitus and myself didn't need one. Length, bend and diameter are important.

 

Also remember, it'll never be as cheap as you want, or as expensive as you fear, just be prepared :-)

[Humble Rumble]

2.5 or 3", and 3 is pushing for N/A. As Perscitus said, 3" sees no real gain or loss unless you're boosting. Hes got the 3" CBE and im running a 2.375" stock mufflers and power was pretty much even when we raced.

 

The other issue you run into is resonance. As you remember Jason had to get a J pipe fitted to remove the drone but Perscitus and myself didn't need one. Length, bend and diameter are important.

 

Also remember, it'll never be as cheap as you want, or as expensive as you fear, just be prepared :-)

 

I'm prepared to throw a hefty amount of my end of year bonus at it, I just want to make sure I'm doing it the best way I can for what I want and what I need. As you can tell with the time and money I spent doing my Koni setup, I'd rather spend a bit extra time researching and pay a bit more to make sure I do it the best way possible.

[Golferdude1087]

I'm prepared to throw a hefty amount of my end of year bonus at it, I just want to make sure I'm doing it the best way I can for what I want and what I need. As you can tell with the time and money I spent doing my Koni setup, I'd rather spend a bit extra time researching and pay a bit more to make sure I do it the best way possible.

 

Not arguing that, Ive seen your progress, you are very meticulous.

 

You will probably split the difference between Jason ("600") and me ($1300). Make sure you use high quality stainless steel, esp in the salt belt.

 

Both Perscitus and myself have had issues even with doing it "right", there is a reason a proper exhaust system is incredibly expensive.

 

His description was probably the most thorough I have ever seen, would you like dimensions on lengths between parts and all of that? My car is in the shop for LCAs today and I can request them to get all of those numbers if you like.

[Humble Rumble]

The shop I'm taking it to has an on site fabrication facility and makes incredibly high quality products, already told them I want full stainless. Just need to get my hands on the Raptors and then take the car to them to measure up specifics and likely use this page as a reference for components.

[Timothy.B]

I briefly spoke to someone at Flowmaster on Facebook and I gotta call them one day to chat on a good setup for my goals. They recommended a "straight through" or "laminar flow" muffler because a chambered one may effect the sound that distinguishes a boxer engine. I think I'll stick with the 2.25" all the way through. I already warned my girlfriend that for my birthday in March I was gonna go a bit crazy with the exhaust. Her response was, "Okay, but I'm not gonna be happy about it."

 

Maybe I can start collecting pieces slowly. I'm gonna need to grab the headers soon.

[Perscitus]

I briefly spoke to someone at Flowmaster on Facebook and I gotta call them one day to chat on a good setup for my goals. They recommended a "straight through" or "laminar flow" muffler because a chambered one may effect the sound that distinguishes a boxer engine. I think I'll stick with the 2.25" all the way through. I already warned my girlfriend that for my birthday in March I was gonna go a bit crazy with the exhaust. Her response was, "Okay, but I'm not gonna be happy about it." Maybe I can start collecting pieces slowly. I'm gonna need to grab the headers soon.

Yes, laminar flow design is good (HP2 for example), skip the straight through - and don't listen to them re boxer sound - long gone are the days of UEL headers (except on the aging USDM STI). THe H6 is in an entirely different league when it comes to engine sound, exhaust pulses, etc.

 

 

 

To keep things simple (as a rule of thumb) I''d say:

 

 

Option 1: 2.25" ID throughout

Headers -> custom Y with GESI cats -> flex section -> Flowmaster HP2 (18") or similar -> Vibrant bottle style resonator (18") or similar -> axle-back of choice/mufflers of choice/tips of choice. (The mufflers will be the key deciding factor behind volume and sound)

 

 

 

Option 2: 2.25" ID into 2.5"

 

Headers -> custom Y with GESI cats (you can step up to 2.5" here with either the entire Y being 2.5 or just the cats and on being 2.5") -> flex section -> Flowmaster HP2 (18") or similar (this is typically 2.25" ID) -> Vibrant bottle style resonator (18") or similar (the other place to step up to 2.5" ID if desired) -> axle-back of choice/mufflers of choice/tips of choice. (The mufflers will be the key deciding factor behind volume and sound).

 

 

Its most important to:

 

a. weld AF/Lambda sensor bungs EXACTLY at the same distance and ideally even orientation as stock, weld Rear O2s also in their stock distance from the engine unless turning them off via tune

 

b. metal core 300-400+ cell cats (400+ is ideal, unless you do 2 per bank, back to back, like stock)

c. good flex (SS, turbo design)

d. re-use stock mounting points (Y, etc)

e. use the longest mufflers and resonators you can

f. make sure mufflers line up well and tips extend out a tiny bit (helps project the sound away from the cabin, trunk area)

[JohariAhmad]

Stop it! I just installed a mishimoto tmic with their charge pipe. I think it's gonna be the end of my mods for a while. Gonna make it up to my tuner next week hopefully and see if we need to adjust anything for more gains.

 

Those headers are most likely after doing a full turbo-back, intake, ETS turbo, etc., etc., etc., exterior mods and lighting mods. Then, you can do the headers [emoji38]

I searched for Mishimoto TMIC & found your posting reply as per quote above. Are u referring to WRX 2015 Mishimoto TMIC + Charge pipe fitment? Is it into EJ25 5th Gen LGT? or was it different model? How was the fitment?

 

Thanks

 

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

[fredrik94087]

I searched for Mishimoto TMIC & found your posting reply as per quote above. Are u referring to WRX 2015 Mishimoto TMIC + Charge pipe fitment? Is it into EJ25 5th Gen LGT? or was it different model? How was the fitment?

 

Thanks

 

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

 

ROTFL...

 

Famous last words of mine "I think it's gonna be the end of my mods for a while." Ahhh...I kill myself!

 

It was on my old WRX and not on an LGT.

 

Cheers!

[Timothy.B]

 

Sorry for crap video quality. Brad uses a potato phone.

 

So, got the Jones Turbine mufflers installed but it's too quiet from 3K and higher and drones like hell at 2k so, we're cutting out the stock resonator and putting in a 22" (actually length is 18") Dynomax one. I'm hoping that opens up the tone more but also quiets down the boominess. I can deal with the extra sound and bassiness but not when it rattles my ear drums on the highway haha.

Edited May 6, 2019 by Timothy.B

[Humble Rumble]

Found out that the Pleasure Racing Service (PRS) Lightweight Aluminum Crank Pulley for EZ36 (S138) has been discontinued and is no longer available. Kinda disappointed, that's been on my mod wishlist for a while but just never got to it.

[Humble Rumble]

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/3-6r-aluminum-radiator-upgrade-finally-40mm-dual-core-plug-288165.html

 

Long post incoming. Recently finished up a project I’ve been working on for a couple of months, and figured it was time to compile it into a thread: a 3.6R 40mm Aluminum Dual Core Radiator upgrade that is fully plug and play (or at least as plug and play as possible). The radiator used is actually originally made for BL/BP EZ30. The goal behind this project was to find an aluminum radiator upgrade setup for 3.6R that could be accomplished with little to no fabrication other that what can be done with simple hand tools, and most if not all parts readily market available.

 

Before we get started, you might be asking "What's such a big deal about a 3.6R radiator?". Well, the big deal is that currently, or prior to this project at least, there were no radiator options available for 3.6R that were aluminum, a capacity upgrade, or both. Why? Because of the second upper coolant port. If the 3.6R used a single upper port, we'd have dozens of options available, and all stuff that fits 08+ STI's (the same stuff that works for GT) would also fit 3.6R. But cutting into and welding another upper port onto an already expensive aluminum radiator is something that's outside of the majority of owners capabilities.

 

 

The company that makes the radiator is “Golpher”. They make three radiator versions that are relevant to us: BL/BP EZ30 40mm, BL/BP EZ30 26mm, and BE/BH EZ30 40mm. The one that I used for this project is the BL/BP 40mm version.

 

Golpher Webstore: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101235148

BL/BP EZ30 40mm: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803630438734.html

BL/BP EZ30 26mm: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256801706982365.html

BE/BH EZ30 40mm: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256801706939513.html

 

Credit for the genesis of this project goes to Patrick (ThreeSixMafia on the forums). He originally found Golpher’s BE/BH H6 version radiator, and did all of the original cross-platform radiator measurement research. He did his experimenting with the BE/BH version of the radiator and used the Mishimoto STI fan shroud with its original fans. He did have to make some modifications to the trans fluid lines, as well as the upper radiator stays, and the radiator cap positioning/overflow tube path was different as well. After his project, I discovered that Golpher offered the BL/BP Gen H6 version radiator, and through my own research, found that it should be much closer to direct fitment for 3.6R than the BE/BH Gen radiator, so I decided to go all out with my setup. Link to his Patrick’s work is here, we had a lot of DM back and forth between us trying to figure this whole project out: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6054712&postcount=33

 

As stated, the radiator is originally for a BL/BP Gen 3.0R, but fitment is nearly identical to 3.6R. The top and bottom stay mounts are identical, the upper and lower coolant hose ports are identical, and the rad cap location is identical. The only real difference between the two is the trans cooler ports: 3.0R uses 2 straight fittings, while 3.6R uses 1 straight and 1 90-degree elbow. Here's a comparison between the 3.0R & 3.6R OEM radiators (using the CSF website pictures just for comparison).

 

 

Again, since I’m not a welder and I didn’t want to have anything custom-manufactured for this project, that elbow fitting was what held this project up for the longest amount of time, as Golpher used an uncommon thread pitch fitting, and the male end is welded into the radiator so it’s unable to be changed easily. It turned out to be 9/16x24 thread (which is very near the thread pitch for common sizing AN-6 fittings, but AN-6 fittings are 9/16x18 thread so will not work). The adapter I found with the correct female end thread had another, but different, uncommon thread for its male end: 5/8x18. I finally ended up finding a 90-degree elbow fitting with 5/8x18 pitch that would work.

 

 

Being that this radiator also has an integrated trans fluid cooler just like the factory radiator, it should also increase ATF cooling efficiency as a side benefit. I’m going to be reaching out to Golpher with my project to see if they could make a version with 90-degree elbows from the get-go instead and offer it directly for 3.6R to hopefully eliminate the need for the adapter shenanigans.

 

There’s multiple ways you can go about this setup. There’s a minimum list of parts you need to get it up and running, and there’s a handful of non-essential bonus parts that are nice to have if you want a “premium” installation.

 

—Bare Minimum Parts (Basic)—

-Golpher 03-09 EZ30 H6 Aluminum Radiator 40mm Dual Core (or 26mm version) - $503 (26mm is $440)

-Mishimoto 08+ STI Aluminum Fan Shroud w/ Slim Fans (MMFS-STI-08P) *might not be necessary with 26mm rad, needed for 40mm) - $277

-BrassCraft 3/8" Female Fine Thread Flare (9/16x24) x 3/8" Male Flare Adapter - $10

-Parker Elbow Fitting 90-Degree Swivel 3/8" x 5/8-18 Thread (37982-6-6) - $13

-Various 10mm & 13mm hardware (M6 & M8) and brackets/mending plates (I opted for stainless everything)

Total: $803 ($740 for 26mm, possible as low as $463 if stock fan shroud can fit)

 

—Non-Essential Bonus Parts (Premium)—

-SPAL 12" Medium Profile Curved Blade Puller Fan (30101522) x2 *need to drill new holes in fan shroud* - $206 (can be found cheaper by googling part number)

-Mishimoto 08+ STI Aluminum Coolant Overflow Tank (MMRT-STI-08) - $202

-Samco H6 3.6 L Non-Turbo Coolant Kit (TCS700/C) - $211

-Samco Clamp Kit (CK700/C) - $30

Additional Total: $649

---

Grand Total (40mm Basic): $803

Grand Total (26mm Basic): $740 (possibly $463)

Grand Total (40mm Premium): $1452

 

 

Now onto the install: Thankfully, all of the difficulties with this project were on the research/part sourcing side. Install was a breeze. Everything fit exactly as I hoped it would and it looks *fantastic* in the bay. I fabbed up a little bracket assembly to mount the fan control module on, made out of mending plates and a t-bracket I found at Lowes. Wiring was pretty straight forward, my buddy helped me with it since I’ve never soldered before, but essentially we just chopped the plugs off the SPAL fans and soldered the plugs from the original fan control on. We also swapped out the large fan control plug as well, since I had a burn/flare issue that damaged my original plug and fan control (which we think is what murdered my original engine). A side note on the fan control: the control module is the identical part # between Legacy/Outback 3.6R and 08+ Tribeca. If you look them up on eBay, you typically find cheaper results for Tribeca than you do for Legacy/Outback, despite being exactly the same part (I paid $41 for my new unit with all three plug ends).

 

 

Radiator fitment is perfect, the entire assembly rad/shroud/fan is EXACTLY the same thickness as the OEM assembly, 5” thick, so absolutely no clearance issues. That means that it’s likely that the slim fan shroud *is* necessary for the 40mm radiator, but the 26mm should be able to use the factory fan shroud. I did have to trim about 3/4” off the three coolant hoses, and did need to get a different hose clamp for the radiator side of the lower hose, as the radiator nipple is just slightly too large for the OEM clamp. The Mishimoto overflow tank also fit perfectly, with the only caveat being that you have to rest the tank on the shroud bracket but NOT insert the bottom tab into the hole. This is the only way it will fit; using the tab hole makes the bottle contact the engine and not clear. But it holds more than firm enough with the top two screws. It actually clears better set like this than the stock bottle does when inserted into the hole, and the Mishimoto bottle is about 1.5x as thick.